The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

[Despos]



Thanks Despos and Co. for your taking the time to provide expert advise. Good work!

I got a 42L OTR suit and had a tailor make significant adjustments. I have a 9 - 10 inch drop and long arms. I wear 16.5-38.

Looks like the jacket needs more work.

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Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

IMG ALT=""]http://www.styleforum.net/content/type/61/id/1157275/width/350/height/700[/IMG]

Very erect posture causing the fronts to scissor (cross over each other below the front buttons) You need more front length from the shoulder, The balance issue makes the back fall in on your hips and creates all the wrinkles on the back. Front chest is narrow and makes the chest/break line of the lapels look like ( ) instead of V. All this is very hard if at all possible to correct from a finished garment

 

[JMartinEsq]

I have a question about shoulder measurements. How much variation can I expect in shoulder width? I have a MTM suit with 19.5 inch shoulders. Would it be possible for a suit with 17.5 inch shoulders to fit me properly, depending on the cut of the suit? I am eyeballing a suit on ebay, so I obviously cannot try it on.

 

[Despos]

Have seen this disparity of shoulder widths work on some. Depends on the way the shoulder is cut and construction. You are taking a chance. Will be a big difference in shoulder expression and I have no idea if such a narrow shoulder will be comfortable.

 

[Alexander Scriabin]

Hi there,

I've just recently received my first MTM from Kent Wang and there are some pretty serious fit issues with the jacket. Because of the nature of some of these problems, I doubt alterations are much of a possibility but I was wondering if anyone might be able to suggest how to improve the fit for next time. I'm happy to write this one off as a loss if it leads me closer to what I want in the future.

The main problems are the adjustment for head forward being too severe (collar too high) and the buckling tightness around the shoulders. We sloped the shoulders fairly aggressively but it seems that they didn't assume to increase the width to accommodate the increased slope. The shoulders feel very tight and "pinch" on the front. The shoulder line is very buckled too but I assume that this to do with the height of the collar.

The back is still something of a mess too. I've noted on the image areas that I'm most concerned with.

I'd really appreciate any thoughts. Especially on how to best communicate to KW what ought to be done.

Best regards

 

[yankeegooner]

Thanks Despos for your observations. I appreciate them. I'll probably just endure this for now and try to commission a MTM from a proper tailor soon.

 

[Evolve]

.

 

[EndZone]

Hi fellow Styleforum members! I have been a long time lurker but now a registered member. Recently, I bought a couple of casual jackets which I really love. Sleeves are to be shortened, but before that, I'm a bit hesitant about the length of the jacket. Is my jacket too short? Is it short to the point of funny? I need help here guys. The jacket is a 38S.

The picture isn't very good, it looks like the jacket is too small and my belly too large, but believe me, this is not normally the fact. I guess the camera angle is a bit off. The thing that bothers me though, is the jacket length. Good or not?

If I would go for a 38R, the sleeves would be so long that I would probably have to take off around 3-5 inches. Isn't a bit too much to take off? All the buttons would need to be moved (non-working ones though).

Pic taken at a bit too low angle perhaps:


Second attempt, at a more normal angle:

 

[Terpo]

I agree the drape is sloppy. Apart from letting out the crotch, what measurements would I be looking to change on my next order to improve the fit (it's Luxire MTM)? Does the crotch refer to the rise, the thigh or the hip measurement?

Also, in order to judge the rise more accurately I took some more holistic pics. I am wearing the trousers at my natural waist, which I heard was advised for the tall slim as myself. Would you agree with this or should I think about lowering the waistband in the future?

And finally and comments on the fit of this MTM shirt would be greatly appreciated as well. Thanks a lot in advance!

Don't want to appear pushy, just want to make sure my post doesn't get lost. Would appreciate any input on the two garments above.

Regarding the shirt, I am not sure about the sleeve length, unbuttoned the cuffs end where the thumb forms the V with my hand.Is this too long. Also I find the sleeves a bit puffy so will probably have them tapered just slightly, as anything much slimmer restricts my movement.

Regarding the trousers, need to get the drape fixed by a tailor by letting out the crotch. I took the advice from Flusser's book to get the waistband sitting in the natural waist for a tall slim guy like myself. I am not sure I interpreted the advice correctly as there is a bit of a margin for error in getting the height of the waistband right. Again, would appreciate any comments on this; I hope I am asking the question in the right place!

Thanks a lot for your time!

 

[punit12]

I bought this used tuxedo on eBay; do the shoulders fit well before I take in the jacket and alter the trousers?

 

[Despos]



Hi fellow Styleforum members! I have been a long time lurker but now a registered member. Recently, I bought a couple of casual jackets which I really love. Sleeves are to be shortened, but before that, I'm a bit hesitant about the length of the jacket. Is my jacket too short? Is it short to the point of funny? I need help here guys. The jacket is a 38S. The picture isn't very good, it looks like the jacket is too small and my belly too large, but believe me, this is not normally the fact. I guess the camera angle is a bit off. The thing that bothers me though, is the jacket length. Good or not? If I would go for a 38R, the sleeves would be so long that I would probably have to take off around 3-5 inches. Isn't a bit too much to take off? All the buttons would need to be moved (non-working ones though). Pic taken at a bit too low angle perhaps:

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

Second attempt, at a more normal angle:

Length is a major issue. Honestly looks like a ladies jacket. Jacket looks too small and button is too high. If you get a regular, the sleeves won't be more than 1 " too long. Not a problem to shorten.

 

[Despos]

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

I agree the drape is sloppy. Apart from letting out the crotch, what measurements would I be looking to change on my next order to improve the fit (it's Luxire MTM)? Does the crotch refer to the rise, the thigh or the hip measurement? Also, in order to judge the rise more accurately I took some more holistic pics. I am wearing the trousers at my natural waist, which I heard was advised for the tall slim as myself. Would you agree with this or should I think about lowering the waistband in the future? And finally and comments on the fit of this MTM shirt would be greatly appreciated as well. Thanks a lot in advance!

Don't want to appear pushy, just want to make sure my post doesn't get lost. Would appreciate any input on the two garments above. Regarding the shirt, I am not sure about the sleeve length, unbuttoned the cuffs end where the thumb forms the V with my hand.Is this too long. Also I find the sleeves a bit puffy so will probably have them tapered just slightly, as anything much slimmer restricts my movement. Regarding the trousers, need to get the drape fixed by a tailor by letting out the crotch. I took the advice from Flusser's book to get the waistband sitting in the natural waist for a tall slim guy like myself. I am not sure I interpreted the advice correctly as there is a bit of a margin for error in getting the height of the waistband right. Again, would appreciate any comments on this; I hope I am asking the question in the right place! Thanks a lot for your time!

Trouser is all over the place. Don't take fitting on your natural waist so literally. That may be different on you than others. Trouser will look better sitting on your hip bone. Would shorten the rise here about 3/4". You have to adjust for the high right hip. The back rise is long and needs tweaking. The trouser fly isn't constructed well, it opens at the top of the fly just under the waistband. Would recommend reverse pleats over regular pleats. Reduce the the shoulder width on the shirt and the waist on the back part only. Sleeves are too long and cuffs a touch big in circumference.

 

[EndZone]

Thanks for the answer! Do you think I should even go for a size 40? Maybe an S then..? I'm afraid it would be too large at the shoulders though?

You think its small overall, not just the length?

 

[Despos]



I bought this used tuxedo on eBay; do the shoulders fit well before I take in the jacket and alter the trousers?

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

Jacket looks too big in this picture. If you have the waist suppressed it may make the shoulders look exaggerated. Not sure what to tell you. Everything is so boxy, hard to tell. One picture isn't much to work with.

 

[Despos]



Thanks for the answer! Do you think I should even go for a size 40? Maybe an S then..? I'm afraid it would be too large at the shoulders though?

You think its small overall, not just the length?

When they grade a pattern the shoulder width goes up about 1/4" per two sizes. It's not much and you need it. This jacket is too small and way too short. Have you tried other brands?

 

[EndZone]

When they grade a pattern the shoulder width goes up about 1/4" per two sizes. It's not much and you need it. This jacket is too small and way too short. Have you tried other brands?

Yes, I have some more jackets of the same size. Will post some pics later today. Thanks a lot for your help!