The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

[thefunk89]

Styleforum, I need your help!

Please let me know if I need to get this suit jacket tailored.
I'm trying to go for a modern, slim look.
When I get it dry cleaned next time, I will ask to turn it into a 3 roll 2 jacket.

Also, does the jacket work with the pants? And does the knit tie I'm wearing work with the outfit?

Quote:

 

[thefunk89]

Edit:Repost

 

[bigbucky]

+10000 Despos! This is what makes SF great

 

[Despos]



Styleforum, I need your help!

Please let me know if I need to get this suit jacket tailored.
I'm trying to go for a modern, slim look.
When I get it dry cleaned next time, I will ask to turn it into a 3 roll 2 jacket.

Also, does the jacket work with the pants? And does the knit tie I'm wearing work with the outfit?

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

Quote:

Would help to know what brand the jacket is

 

[TheTukker]



Correct me if I'm wrong, but sloped shoulders is a physical attribute. .....I guess you can pad the crap out of a jacket in order to get someone who has very square shoulders to look like the are sloping... not sure.

+1; this is what I was thinking.

 

[lonestarteacher]

I'm not a fan of the tie and the back of the jacket looks like it could use a little sculpting in order to look like it accentuates you instead of hiding you.

 

[Nicola]



To some extent, I think it's based on the model. But I have some RLPL and RLBL sport coats that create a very nice slope with a roped sleeve head. While I have some Hickey Freeman jackets that create a much more hump like line to the shoulder with a roped sleeve head as well.

Usually having sloped shoulders has been considered a defect not an ideal to shoot for.

Saying you want to look like a nice slope shoulder is one step from asking the tailor to give you a hunchback.

 

[Despos]

Correct me if I'm wrong, but sloped shoulders is a physical attribute. .....I guess you can pad the crap out of a jacket in order to get someone who has very square shoulders to look like the are sloping... not sure.

+1; this is what I was thinking.

Are you guys thinking that wedge shaped padding placed with the thickest part of the wedge at the neck tapering down to nothing would make the shoulder look sloped or are you saying something else?

Where did this discussion begin?

 

[thefunk89]

Quote:

[/SPOILER]
Would help to know what brand the jacket is

It's an old jacket I've had for years but never wore. The brand is emanuel ungaro.

I'm not a fan of the tie and the back of the jacket looks like it could use a little sculpting in order to look like it accentuates you instead of hiding you.

In terms of sculpting, what should I ask a tailor to do? And doesn't it need to be slimmed down?

Also, does the jacket look awkward paired with the pants or does it look fine?

 

[jefferyd]



Please let me know if I need to get this suit jacket tailored.

I'm trying to go for a modern, slim look.

You would have to spend more on tailoring than this garment is worth to achieve that.

When I get it dry cleaned next time, I will ask to turn it into a 3 roll 2 jacket.

It's not just a matter of pressing- the collar is far too long to get the lapel to break between the buttons- it is already breaking a good inch above the top button so you would have to take the collar off and shorten the spring in the lapel by 3/8" to get what you want. Please don't attempt this.

This is a good place to repeat that alterations should be an attempt to take a garment which is close to fitting well or being what you want and then adding a little icing. Trying to transform a garment into something it is not is usually a recipe for disaster.

 

[thefunk89]

Originally Posted by jefferyd


You would have to spend more on tailoring than this garment is worth to achieve that.

I understand. Would it be worth tailoring if I scratch the slim look that I was going for and just want a normal fitting jacket?
If not, I can just get rid of it.
What should I do when I purchase a new jacket to replace this? Buy a smaller size? I'm not entirely sure what is wrong with this one and the length seems fine.

It's not just a matter of pressing- the collar is far too long to get the lapel to break between the buttons- it is already breaking a good inch above the top button so you would have to take the collar off and shorten the spring in the lapel by 3/8" to get what you want. Please don't attempt this.
This is a good place to repeat that alterations should be an attempt to take a garment which is close to fitting well or being what you want and then adding a little icing. Trying to transform a garment into something it is not is usually a recipe for disaster.

Thank you for the clarification, and I won't attempt this.

 

[TheTukker]

Are you guys thinking that wedge shaped padding placed with the thickest part of the wedge at the neck tapering down to nothing would make the shoulder look sloped or are you saying something else?
Where did this discussion begin?

Thanks Chris - here's the discussion:

...(sloped shoulders look very good)......

This is an interesting view; are you serious?

This is an interesting view; are you serious?

How can I not be?

Although this is obviously Spoo and I was using the pictures to answer his questions, any comments from the tailors on the fit of the jacket?

How can I not be?

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

Although this is obviously Spoo and I was using the pictures to answer his questions, any comments from the tailors on the fit of the jacket?

Are you posting these pics as illustration of your point? Needless to say it's rather subjective - and seems a little odd to me - but I would have thought that Spoo hardly has a pronounced sloping shoulder. I've seen much more pronounced sloping shoulders here.

Are you posting these pics as illustration of your point? Needless to say it's rather subjective - and seems a little odd to me - but I would have thought that Spoo hardly has a pronounced sloping shoulder. I've seen much more pronounced sloping shoulders here.

I'm not talking about his shoulders sloping, I'm referring to the sloped, concave up shape of the jacket shoulder.

Are you posting these pics as illustration of your point? Needless to say it's rather subjective - and seems a little odd to me - but I would have thought that Spoo hardly has a pronounced sloping shoulder. I've seen much more pronounced sloping shoulders here.

I'm not talking about his shoulders sloping, I'm referring to the sloped, concave up shape of the jacket shoulder.

Concave shoulders are knows as 'pagoda' shoulders, though I don't really see those on either of the pics of Spoo which you posted.

I'm not talking about his shoulders sloping, I'm referring to the sloped, concave up shape of the jacket shoulder.

Spoo's coats look like they have roped shoulders, not concave ones... I'd suggest reading some of Jeffreyd's posts on shoulder types and pagoda shoulders FIRST ... then come back and explain what you like about sloped shoulders. Would help to get your terminology right, as you comments are a bit confusing...


http://tuttofattoamano.blogspot.com/2009/11/different-shoulder-types.html

http://tuttofattoamano.blogspot.com/2009/09/constructing-pagoda-shoulder-part-1.html

http://tuttofattoamano.blogspot.com/2009/10/pagoda-shoulders-making-pad.html

http://tuttofattoamano.blogspot.com/2009/10/pagoda-shoulders-putting-pieces.html

i wouldn't call that "concave"
isn't that just how it looks when you have roped shoulders?

No, there are roped shoulders that don't have pagoda/sloping shoulders.

for example: http://www.ralphlauren.com/product/index.jsp?productId=11971740&pg=2&parentPage=family

No, there are roped shoulders that don't have pagoda/sloping shoulders.
for example: http://www.ralphlauren.com/product/index.jsp?productId=11971740&pg=2&parentPage=family

and that RLBL jacket looks like the guy is wearing football shoulder pads....
you think that looks better than what spoo is wearing?

a pagoda shoulder is concave.

a roped shoulder is a regular with the roping done on the top of the sleeve.
its actually a misnomer that is commonly accepted.

and that RLBL jacket looks like the guy is wearing football shoulder pads....
you think that looks better than what spoo is wearing?

No.... which is why I said I like sloped shoulders, lol.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but sloped shoulders is a physical attribute. The model wearing that RLBL suit has very square shoulders, which makes the jacket seem even more boxy. Poor choice of model, if you ask me.

Here he is wearing a skin tight crewneck... Very square shoulders. http://www.ralphlauren.com/product/...&cp=2871712.2887664&view=99&parentPage=family

I guess you can pad the crap out of a jacket in order to get someone who has very square shoulders to look like the are sloping... not sure.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but sloped shoulders is a physical attribute. The model wearing that RLBL suit has very square shoulders, which makes the jacket seem even more boxy. Poor choice of model, if you ask me.
Here he is wearing a skin tight crewneck... Very square shoulders. http://www.ralphlauren.com/product/...&cp=2871712.2887664&view=99&parentPage=family
I guess you can pad the crap out of a jacket in order to get someone who has very square shoulders to look like the are sloping... not sure.

To some extent, I think it's based on the model. But I have some RLPL and RLBL sport coats that create a very nice slope with a roped sleeve head. While I have some Hickey Freeman jackets that create a much more hump like line to the shoulder with a roped sleeve head as well.

...

...

Correct me if I'm wrong, but sloped shoulders is a physical attribute. .....I guess you can pad the crap out of a jacket in order to get someone who has very square shoulders to look like the are sloping... not sure.

+1; this is what I was thinking.

 

[Seph]



I'd also love some feedback, too, on this jacket. Have been working with the same tailor for some time now, in New Delhi, but am not quite sure how I feel about the results. For perspective, I'm on the shorter size, at around 5' 7", and am somewhat skinny. Often I feel like clothes have a bit of a circus tent feel! Then again, I am open to the notion that I may just be pickey.

On this particular jacket, I feel like the shoulders have a bit more padding than I'd like, and wonder if the cut is too loose. Particularly, I wonder if further waist supression is in order, or even something more drastic. Would love any feedback / suggestions for future trials!

I think this looks great as it is! Sure, there is some padding in the shoulders, but nothing too extreme. I wouldn't bring the waist in anymore either - already nice and slim.

 

[Achilles_]

I received this SC from a gent in the UK. It is a Caruso Sartoria Parma, and the fabric/pattern is amazing. Obviously it needs some work to fit me. Is it possible to make it work?

The shirt is a Borrelli, and it has a spread collar.

Also, the pants are way too tight on me, I will be giving them away soon. I only wore them so the outline of the coat would be clearer.

Thank you for the help!

Edit: After many tries, it seems that I cannot edit out my face via photobucket. Even though my photobucket picture is saved cropped. (as is the one with the sink, the sink is not in my photobucket album) So I guess I'll leave it.

 

[sugarbutch]



After many tries, it seems that I cannot edit out my face via photobucket. Even though my photobucket picture is saved cropped. (as is the one with the sink, the sink is not in my photobucket album) So I guess I'll leave it.

I think this may be a Photobucket cookies/caching issue. I've seen the same behavior, but I don't think that other people can see the unedited image. Eventually, I see the edited image in the thread. You could check by viewing the thread from a different computer/phone.