The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

[BB_Adept]

I purchased a vintage overcoat from Pete and Harry that is somewhat too big.
I only tried it on and i can return it.

Would an alterations tailor be able to
1. Remove shoulder pads
2. Take in the coat altogether
3. Shorten the coat about 5-7cm?
Would this make sense or shall I rather return it?

Sorry for the awful photo, it was late at night and I was in my sports dress.

 

[Despos]

I purchased a vintage overcoat from Pete and Harry that is somewhat too big.
I only tried it on and i can return it.

Would an alterations tailor be able to
1. Remove shoulder pads
2. Take in the coat altogether
3. Shorten the coat about 5-7cm?
Would this make sense or shall I rather return it?

Sorry for the awful photo, it was late at night and I was in my sports dress.

Coat is 1 or 2 sizes too big.
Get the right size you won't need any alterations.
High risk of altering and and not getting optimal results, then you're stuck with something you don't like the fit and look.
If you taper the body and not remove the sleeves and narrow the shoulder, it will look disproportioned. You can't get rid of all the drape in the chest because of the breast pocket. if you reduce the chest the pocket will be too close to the sleeve seam.
All this work has to done well and sure it would be expensive if its done well

 

[BB_Adept]

Thank you so very much @Despos
I would gladly appreciate your opinion on the sport coat I posted if you happen to have a couple of free time and mental power to spare

 

[nevaeh]

Not sure whether this is the right thread. Is there a rule of thumb for the length of overcoats? I’ve heard for suit jackets it’s half the height from collar down—is there something like that for overcoats?

 

[FlyingHorker]

I purchased a vintage overcoat from Pete and Harry that is somewhat too big.
I only tried it on and i can return it.

Would an alterations tailor be able to
1. Remove shoulder pads
2. Take in the coat altogether
3. Shorten the coat about 5-7cm?
Would this make sense or shall I rather return it?

Sorry for the awful photo, it was late at night and I was in my sports dress.

I'm heavily biased* as I like big coats, but I think overcoats generally look better when they're too big vs. a tailored fit like a suit or sports coat. They're also way more comfortable, and easier to layer with.

The broad shoulders, drape in the chest, and vertical ripples give off a comfortable, masculine silhouette. If my opinion matters, I'd shorten the coat and leave the rest as is.

*also not a tailor.

Not sure whether this is the right thread. Is there a rule of thumb for the length of overcoats? I’ve heard for suit jackets it’s half the height from collar down—is there something like that for overcoats?

Nah. Overcoats have a square skirt/quarters, the overall look matters more than the suit's "bisect the body in half" idea.

I'd say a better question is, where do you want the coat to fall? There's pros/cons to all lengths.

Above the knee length doesn't get in the way when getting in and out of a car, it's convenient. It also lacks a dramatic look and doesn't swish when you walk and is less warm. I personally wouldn't go anything shorter than just above the knee cap.

Below the knee lengths can get in the way when getting in and out of a car, and they're bulkier. Good luck finding a place to put these in a restaurant without the coat dragging on the ground. These lengths also swish and have a flow when you walk and will keep you warmer.

At this point, all my overcoats are below the knee. Ranging from upper calf to mid-lower-calf length.

The point when a coat is too long for me is when I feel self-conscious about it dragging on the ground at any point and picking up grime.

 

[vim147]

I have a pair of trousers that need the waist/seat increasing by an inch.

If I have this done by a tailor, would the old stitch holes be visible on the seat ?

 

[Bersabee]

Need some help with what needs to be done with this coat. I am planning to order an MTO from Spier and Mackay. This fits me pretty good off the rack. If just curious to what needs to be done around the body. It seems a little tight around the stomach and a touch across the back. Just wanted to see if I'm missing something (yes I know the sleeves are too long). Also how much should be let out? This is a 44R for reference.

 

[BB_Adept]

@FlyingHorker your opinion definitely dies matter and I appreciate it.
I share your opinion on oversizing, this will be the first overcoat I buy for myself (instead of just taking my father's) and I want it to be longer.
However, at least the shoulder pads would have to be removed and i am afraid this will throw off the entire silhouette.
I am a broad shouldered guy and with those shoulder pads I look like a villain from a 90s comic movie.

 

[FlyingHorker]

@FlyingHorker your opinion definitely dies matter and I appreciate it.
I share your opinion on oversizing, this will be the first overcoat I buy for myself (instead of just taking my father's) and I want it to be longer.
However, at least the shoulder pads would have to be removed and i am afraid this will throw off the entire silhouette.
I am a broad shouldered guy and with those shoulder pads I look like a villain from a 90s comic movie.

IMO, "villain from a 90s comic movie" looks pretty cool but do what feels comfortable to you.

Personally, I wouldn't mess with the shoulder pads and would then return the coat.

 

[Despos]

Consider how the topcoat will most often be used.
Over a suit or jacket or not.
You need room to accommodate what you wear under the coat. A suit jacket may make a difference in the appearance And you may be ok.
If not intending to wear this over a jacket, definitely get a smaller size

 

[Bersabee]

Need some help with what needs to be done with this coat. I am planning to order an MTO from Spier and Mackay. This fits me pretty good off the rack. If just curious to what needs to be done around the body. It seems a little tight around the stomach and a touch across the back. Just wanted to see if I'm missing something (yes I know the sleeves are too long). Also how much should be let out? This is a 44R for reference.

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@Despos do you have any comments on the fit issues? I'm trying to wrap my head around this. Any help works

 

[BB_Adept]

IMO, "villain from a 90s comic movie" looks pretty cool but do what feels comfortable to you.

Personally, I wouldn't mess with the shoulder pads and would then return the coat.

That's exactly what I did.
Even if the shoulders were not too Bad, the waist of the coat was. My wife said it looks like a huge dress.

 

[whorishconsumer]

What are the risks of letting out a jacket from the side versus back when trying to allow spsce for one's gut?

 

[CasualWearer88]

I tried on this Harris Tweed sportcoat today. I would really appreciate your feedback on the fit for this one.

I already checked, the sleeves can the lengthened up to 3 cm by my tailor, the buttons are non-functional.

Best regards

 

[nmprisons]

@CasualWearer88

Is that an off the rack fit? If so, one of the better I've seen.