SPIER & MACKAY - Official Affiliate Thread

[Mr SHIFTY]

for those that own their dress shirts, how do we feel about them? is there collar sag (i know normally wear without ties)?

 

[alkydrinker]

almost. lot of fabrics i could have been interested in, but not a fan of the patch-pocket-inside-a-patch-pocket that has permeated their SC collection for a couple years now. i'm way overdressed for 99% of my interactions in a given week, the last thing i need is another objectively weird and indefensibly twee detail i never asked for.

There were some guys in this thread saying how they successfully removed that inside patch pocket without any issue (shouldn't leave any stitching marks on most non-cotton fabrics)

 

[Bidouleroux]

Do we think this stitching on the shoulder is acceptable? View attachment 2183763

What stitching are you referring to? You're not talking about the Spalla Camicia shoulders, right?

This is not spalla camicia, this is shirring. The two are independent of each other, although you'll get shirring at the top of the shoulder head on all S&M coats constructed with a spalla camicia as far as I know (it should technically be only on Neo style coats since it's a feature of Neapolitan tailoring, but meh).

And yes it's acceptable. Desirable even. It's definitely intentional, in any case.

 

[Lapel1010]

This is not spalla camicia, this is shirring. The two are independent of each other, although you'll get shirring at the top of the shoulder head on all S&M coats constructed with a spalla camicia as far as I know (it should technically be only on Neo style coats since it's a feature of Neapolitan tailoring, but meh).

And yes it's acceptable. Desirable even. It's definitely intentional, in any case.

Thanks for the helpful explanation!

 

[ericgereghty]

for those that own their dress shirts, how do we feel about them? is there collar sag (i know normally wear without ties)?

As in, does the collar fall under SC lapels/go limp?

If so, no. I've not experienced that with any of my SC RTW shirt collars

 

[DapperPhilly]

almost. lot of fabrics i could have been interested in, but not a fan of the patch-pocket-inside-a-patch-pocket that has permeated their SC collection for a couple years now. i'm way overdressed for 99% of my interactions in a given week, the last thing i need is another objectively weird and indefensibly twee detail i never asked for.

I like the patch ticket pocket on their SC's. What I don't care for is how many suit offerings they have with the flapped ticket pocket. For my taste a bit to pretentious.
Of course I am no British gentleman, so there's that....

 

[Bidouleroux]

for those that own their dress shirts, how do we feel about them? is there collar sag (i know normally wear without ties)?

Sag depends more on the fabric and construction than the maker in my experience. For thin fabrics (poplin especially) and unfused collars I'd suggest using something like the Slick Collar if you don't want to wear a tie, which is what I do.

Something else I do now is just not buy unfused collars.

 

[gonnagetmine]

Depends on the collar for me. Button down, Italian spread both flop closed or downward.

Full spread stays up nicely. Cooper or any one-piece will always make a perfect V with a nice roll.

 

[dapperclassic]

I still have some RTW S&M contemporary fit trousers (sold quite a few pairs off), although they are not my favourites they still work ok. For my current preferences they need an extra 0.5-0.75" on the half measurement throughout the full leg (thigh, knee and leg opening) plus more front and back rise. That said, I would not consider them to be slim or unwearable by any means, and certainly nothing like the latest model pics posted on their website.

For the record, I did try a size up on the FW23 season high rise contemporary, aside from the waist being huge (as expected) they were in fact too big everywhere else. I did hear that the cut was revised for FW23 so perhaps they are indeed now fuller and a size up isn't needed I’d update on this as I’ve tried

Thought I'd update on this as I've just took delivery of a SS24 Clissold suit, which is superb.

In my normal S&M size which I've taken for 5+ years, the front and back rise on the new high rise is much improved. There is more room in the upper block, i.e hip and thigh as someone recently posted on the side by side pics, this is a welcome change for me.

From the knee downwards I'd like a little less taper, leg opening on a 34 contemporary is 8". Could have done with an additional 0.5" on the half measurement then they would have been close to my MTM specs, but for RTW I'm very happy.

Some additional updates are on the way for the FW24 pattern which will add a bit more fullness.

 

[classicoutfits]

Here’s the moon jacket in natural light. First pic is very true to colors

 

[ericgereghty]

Thought I'd update on this as I've just took delivery of a SS24 Clissold suit, which is superb.

In my normal S&M size which I've taken for 5+ years, the front and back rise on the new high rise is much improved. There is more room in the upper block, i.e hip and thigh as someone recently posted on the side by side pics, this is a welcome change for me.

From the knee downwards I'd like a little less taper, leg opening on a 34 contemporary is 8". Could have done with an additional 0.5" on the half measurement then they would have been close to my MTM specs, but for RTW I'm very happy.

Some additional updates are on the way for the FW24 pattern which will add a bit more fullness.

How did you come across this info/what are the actual updates?

Hate to beat the dead horse, but boy would it be great if there was a forum S&M paid for that they might utilize to keep consumers abreast of such things!

Here’s the moon jacket in natural light. First pic is very true to colors

Not my style, but that looks amazing! Great tweedy vibes in a summery coat without being overly drab in color

 

[XxLogo]

Grenadine ties are up. Does anyone know if the fabric is made in Italy and then cut/sewn in China?
Just curious as I thought grenadine could only be woven in Italy, but I’m not an expert 😅

 

[ptfly]

Grenadine ties are up. Does anyone know if the fabric is made in Italy and then cut/sewn in China?
Just curious as I thought grenadine could only be woven in Italy, but I’m not an expert 😅

Fossati in Como has all of the existing looms now so I think your assumption is correct.

 

[Ranjeev]

I don't see the grenadine ties unless its the knit ties on sale. Got a link? Thanks.

 

[EdwardPatrick]

I don't see the grenadine ties unless its the knit ties on sale. Got a link? Thanks.

They took them down. I'm sure they'll be back up soon enough.