Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[jonathanS]

Any recommendations for a similar cloth to that of Loro Pianas pecora nera houndstooth?

Best,

What’s wrong with the Loro piana?

 

[ZZ99]

I am looking for a mid-dark rich brown prince of wales cloth weighing around 9-10 oz.
Any recommendations?

I like this one but ideally it would be a bit darker. (I'm also open to houndstooths with the aforementioned shade and weight.)


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P.S. It looks like the one I linked is a glenn check despite being labeled as a POW since it lacks an overcheck, right?

 

[Bellini]

I am looking for a mid-dark rich brown prince of wales cloth weighing around 9-10 oz.
Any recommendations?

I like this one but ideally it would be a bit darker. (I'm also open to houndstooths with the aforementioned shade and weight.)


---

P.S. It looks like the one I linked is a glenn check despite being labeled as a POW since it lacks an overcheck, right?

Does it have to be so light? A rich brown, especially in the patterns which you are seeking, tends to look better in a heavier, more rustic cloth. Even the faux-tweeds, such as your Drapers example, tend to be heavier than 9-10 oz. Maybe try something with some linen like Harrisons Indigo?

 

[ZZ99]

Does it have to be so light? A rich brown, especially in the patterns which you are seeking, tends to look better in a heavier, more rustic cloth. Even the faux-tweeds, such as your Drapers example, tend to be heavier than 9-10 oz. Maybe try something with some linen like Harrisons Indigo?

Thanks. Actually, I could also use your advice re. the weight! I live in mexico city where weather is fairly mild. On average I think I will be wearing the sports coat between 15°C and 24°C. (I'm unlikely to wear it in the middle of the day where it can get up to 30° in the spring.)

I'm not sure how convenient would getting a real tweed be given those numbers.
What do you think?

My drapers example is 10.62 oz which I thought was reasonable too.

Regarding Linen, that could also work but I keep the jewish tradition of not mixing linen and wool (shatnez.) (Alpaca, cashmere, mohair, vicuna, cotton, etc, are fine and can be mixed with linen.)

 

[jonathanS]

Thanks. Actually, I could also use your advice re. the weight! I live in mexico city where weather is fairly mild. On average I think I will be wearing the sports coat between 15°C and 24°C. (I'm unlikely to wear it in the middle of the day where it can get up to 30° in the spring.)

I'm not sure how convenient would getting a real tweed be given those numbers.
What do you think?

My drapers example is 10.62 oz which I thought was reasonable too.

Regarding Linen, that could also work but I keep the jewish tradition of not mixing linen and wool (shatnez.) (Alpaca, cashmere, mohair, vicuna, cotton, etc, are fine and can be mixed with linen.)

out of curiosity, How do you juxtapose this with linen canvassing / wool fabric?

 

[Bellini]

Thanks. I could also use your advice re. the weight! I live in mexico city where weather is fairly mild. On average I think I will be wearing the sports coat between 15°C and 24°C. (I'm unlikely to wear it in the middle of the day where it can get up to 30° in the spring.)

I'm not sure how convenient would getting a real tweed be given those numbers.
What do you think?

My drapers example is 10.62 oz which I thought was reasonable too.

Regarding Linen, that could also work but I keep the jewish tradition of not mixing linen and wool (shatnez.) (Alpaca, cashemere, mohair, vicuna, etc, are fine and can be mixed with linen.)

The Drapers example is 360g which must be more than 10oz. Where are you getting 10.62?

9-10 is summer-weight for me. I spent a September in CDMX and found it surprisingly chilly. If you run warm and don't want tweed you could split the difference and look at P&H Glorious Twelfth or Harrisons Moonbeam. W. Bill has some shetlands that are pretty light, and you would surely find a brown PoW.

 

[ZZ99]

out of curiosity, How do you juxtapose this with linen canvassing / wool fabric?

Strictly speaking it’s also forbidden, but personally I’m not interested in that level of strictness

 

[ZZ99]

The Drapers example is 360g which must be more than 10oz. Where are you getting 10.62?

9-10 is summer-weight for me. I spent a September in CDMX and found it surprisingly chilly. If you run warm and don't want tweed you could split the difference and look at P&H Glorious Twelfth or Harrisons Moonbeam. W. Bill has some shetlands that are pretty light, and you would surely find a brown PoW.

Thanks, those are great recommendations! I love this cloth, among others.

For the weight conversion I was using this tool. Am I using it wrong?

To be clear, I love tweed but I've never worn one so I have no idea what ranges of weights to look at, which is why I mentioned the exact temperature ranges that I expect.
Your suggestions are around 12 oz, which sounds like a good compromise!

But based on your time in CDMX, would you say that a tweed (even a heavier one) is a good purchase?

 

[Bellini]

Thanks, those are great recommendations! I love this cloth, among others.

For the weight conversion I was using this tool. Am I using it wrong?

To be clear, I love tweed but I've never worn one so I have no idea what ranges of weights to look at, which is why I mentioned the exact temperature ranges that I expect.
Your suggestions are around 12 oz, which sounds like a good compromise!

But based on your time in CDMX, would you say that a tweed (even a heavier one) is a good purchase?

Never used a tool but 360g sounds closer to 12oz in my experience.

Temperature is quite personal, but I recall wide temperature fluctuations in CDMX and wearing light outerwear over a jacket mornings and evenings. Not sure about a heavier tweed, but I'd think a lighter shetland or similar should be fine unless you run very warm.

 

[stuffedsuperdud]

Hey all,
I haven't really been interested in new clothes for the past few years but I've decided I'd like a new suit in my favorite fabric, the worsted(ish) 2080 flannel. Does anyone know if they still make it / who their current dealer is? My tailor used to get it through Dugdale Bros but it doesn't seem to be available right now from them. The selvedge used to say Taylor and Lodge on it but those folks don't seem to be in business right now either. Thanks.

 

[JibranK]

Hey all,
I haven't really been interested in new clothes for the past few years but I've decided I'd like a new suit in my favorite fabric, the worsted(ish) 2080 flannel. Does anyone know if they still make it / who their current dealer is? My tailor used to get it through Dugdale Bros but it doesn't seem to be available right now from them. The selvedge used to say Taylor and Lodge on it but those folks don't seem to be in business right now either. Thanks.

Harrisons Burley still has some bolts. I got 2m for trousers that I should have this weekend. Going to order some more for suits.

Dugdale announced a new flannel book on their social media a few months ago, which isn't on their website yet. From the description I've wondered if it's a new name for the Arthur Harrison 2080, which would be great.

 

[ZRH1]

Any recommendations for a heavy, solid navy wool overcoat fabric, preferably >= 25 oz? It is for a double breasted ulster coat.

Also: how much fabric do you think I need? I am a size EU50 and 186 cm. Making it below-the-knees, so I guess 118-120 back length. 3.5 m? Or more?

Thanks!

I used the heaviest Fox Military Coat in Midnight and it is fantastic. It feels more rustic than a vintage cashmere I have but it drapes much better and I feel it is warmer (albeit that might also be due to me choosing to have it made longer than previous overcoats).

 

[tiltgunnar]

What’s wrong with the Loro piana?

It's the perfect one, however, to my knowledge it's discontinued (as for now)

 

[Binhouse]

Hey everyone!

I'm looking to have a double breasted navy blazer made for spring/summer/early fall to use as a more casual jacket to go along with chinos, jeans, and even... a bathing suit? *******.

Stylistically, it will be mostly unstructured and likely a 4x1 button stance, mostly worn unbuttoned in a slouchy casual way.

I'm exploring fabric options, and wanted to hit up this thread for advice or suggestions!

I really love linen jacketing and was thinking a slightly heavier, mid weight linen (not too summery, I want a slight bit of heft). I want the color to be very dark nacy w/o too much of an indigo hue. Linen plain weaves, linen hopsacks, and even cotton/linen or wool/silk/linen mixes are definitely in the consideration set here.

Let me know if anyone knows of anything that would work here!

Many thanks

 

[L.deJong]

Any recommendations for a similar cloth to that of Loro Pianas pecora nera houndstooth?

Best,

Lovat Mill Sonsie bunch, but primarly white/black/grey, not much brown.