The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

[OTCtailor]

I apologize for not taking the correct pictures. I hope these work out better for the critique. I'm hoping to get a critique on the dress shirt as well as the suit. Thanks.

how much weight did you lose? It looks a little big in the shoulders. All in all, it can be adjusted but the adjustments could be pretty significant.

 

[blarthyblar]

Hi everyone!

Brand new to the forum, nice to meet you all. I've been lurking for a while, and seeing just how amazing this community is and the taste, passion and discernment given by all members.

I just bought a Ludlow suit (with Classic Fit pants) in an Vitale Barberis Canonico Nailhead Worsted Charcoal wool for my wedding this fall and thought I'd ask for your expert opinions about alterations I should make.

Thanks in advance for all the suggestions.

Best,
Larry


Here is the suit (sorry no shoes in the house Asian rule haha):






Have a great day everyone!

 

[docka]

10 pounds. What do you think of the suit and dress shirt? The dress shirt was tailored at my current weight, but the suit was constructed when I was 10 pounds heavier. I didn't know the shoulders can shrink significantly.

 

[droid]

First Indochino suit. I feel that the waist suppression might be a little severe and that the pant length might need to be adjusted. Any thoughts?

 

[joeninety]

I have just picked up this from an well known London tailor who i hadn't used before, sorry about the poor photos

thanks

 

[joeninety]

double post

 

[OTCtailor]

Hi everyone!

Brand new to the forum, nice to meet you all. I've been lurking for a while, and seeing just how amazing this community is and the taste, passion and discernment given by all members.

I just bought a Ludlow suit (with Classic Fit pants) in an Vitale Barberis Canonico Nailhead Worsted Charcoal wool for my wedding this fall and thought I'd ask for your expert opinions about alterations I should make.

Thanks in advance for all the suggestions.

Best,
Larry


Here is the suit (sorry no shoes in the house Asian rule haha):






Have a great day everyone!

biggest things I see is the jacket sleeves may be about 1/4" too short...or they could be right on...depends alot on where your shirt cuff is falling as well. The sleeves on the jacket should fall to right above the base of your thumb where the soft spot is in your wrist joint.
Also, the trousers look tight in the seat. They may need some work there. Hope it helps

 

[Contrast]

I recently purchased a MTM suit from a local tailor and I was wondering if somebody could help me find the mistakes in the suit








So far from what I think I can tell is that the shoulders don't fit (Since reading through posts I'm unsure if the cause is size, cut etc.???), the back is too tight and the chest also a bit too small at the button (However if the back is corrected would this be fixed as well?).
Some parts I'm unsure of such as if the bicep area is too tight and the suit a bit too short. Another problem that I've noticed is that the collar of the suit seems too high and covers the shirt collar. However if it is pulled down it would create a collar gap.
The bottom of the suit at the back seems to be a bit wrinkled as well.

Any other suggestions are welcome. Thanks!

 

[gambit50]

Was that jacket really made for you? It is entirely too small in so many ways.
Did you show the tailor a picture of some slim,short suit on a model and tell him to replicate?
Sorry, mate, this is not for you. A true case of appearing as if attempting to fit into your little brother's suit jacket.

 

[Contrast]

Was that jacket really made for you? It is entirely too small in so many ways.
Did you show the tailor a picture of some slim,short suit on a model and tell him to replicate?
Sorry, mate, this is not for you. A true case of appearing as if attempting to fit into your little brother's suit jacket.

Err thanks for the feedback but can you explain what I should add/change?

 

[OTCtailor]

First Indochino suit. I feel that the waist suppression might be a little severe and that the pant length might need to be adjusted. Any thoughts?

Unfortunately the jacket is just not right and probably will require a remake. It's definitely too short and there are lots of collar gap issues. This is probably from a p2p measurement that is too narrow for your shoulders.

 

[OTCtailor]

I recently purchased a MTM suit from a local tailor and I was wondering if somebody could help me find the mistakes in the suit








So far from what I think I can tell is that the shoulders don't fit (Since reading through posts I'm unsure if the cause is size, cut etc.???), the back is too tight and the chest also a bit too small at the button (However if the back is corrected would this be fixed as well?).
Some parts I'm unsure of such as if the bicep area is too tight and the suit a bit too short. Another problem that I've noticed is that the collar of the suit seems too high and covers the shirt collar. However if it is pulled down it would create a collar gap.
The bottom of the suit at the back seems to be a bit wrinkled as well.

Any other suggestions are welcome. Thanks!

I can imagine the scenario with this tailor taking measurements but listening to what the client is saying he wants...which is a more 'euro' slimmed and shortened fashion look. The tailor will always listen because that's his job. However, this particular style obviously does not suit you.
I'd recommend a more classically proportioned garment.
To get this right, The biggest change is probably in the point to point measurement. If it's too narrow, the chest and back fit when based off measurements that were taken will be too tight as you can see. Obviously, the jacket is far too short as well. Personally, i have a formula I use to calculate a good P2P measurement. It generally works every time. It can be adjusted depending on the clients style competency level, but in your case with your body type, I'd automatically err on the side of classic proportions and try to steer you away from the euro fit idea that you were likely after rather than just listen to your requests knowing that this would be the end result.
Hope that helps.

 

[gambit50]

I think you need to start from scratch.
Easy points,
Jacket is FAR too short.Eyballing and guessing, 3cm+ needed.
Sleeves are FAR too narrow, up and down.
You see where the top button is located? That is going to be far too high when jacket is lengthened if still a 2 button.
You are a big hombre, naturally. Go with it. Perhaps you are not at fighting weight but it is not as if you are just grossly overweight or with some big belly.
Big and powerful is good as long as you are not in a child's suit.
The amount of cuff shown looks acceptable on its own but something is wrong with the sleeve length. I think you have huge hands and I would wear slightly longer shirt sleeves
and thus a bit longer jacket sleeve. Also, the extra narrow sleeve might be contributing to the 'offness' of the length.
These are the most obvious issues.
Where do you live? Perhaps there is another tailoring option.

 

[Contrast]

I can imagine the scenario with this tailor taking measurements but listening to what the client is saying he wants...which is a more 'euro' slimmed and shortened fashion look. The tailor will always listen because that's his job. However, this particular style obviously does not suit you.
I'd recommend a more classically proportioned garment.
To get this right, The biggest change is probably in the point to point measurement. If it's too narrow, the chest and back fit when based off measurements that were taken will be too tight as you can see. Obviously, the jacket is far too short as well. Personally, i have a formula I use to calculate a good P2P measurement. It generally works every time. It can be adjusted depending on the clients style competency level, but in your case with your body type, I'd automatically err on the side of classic proportions and try to steer you away from the euro fit idea that you were likely after rather than just listen to your requests knowing that this would be the end result.
Hope that helps.

Thanks for the suggestions! I wanted a tradition lengthed suit but the tailor suggested a shortened one because well, I am pretty short (5'5"). I'll post a full body so you can see the proportions. I never requested a slim suit but I guess it was what the tailor was familiar with so that was how it turned out. I tried to ask for a lower button stance but since the suit is outsourced it could not be done. I went back today to get a remake and added more to the back to lessen the tension and decreased the shoulders a bit (not sure if that helps based on what I read on on this post http://www.styleforum.net/t/151698/divot-terror#post_2686639). Apparently my back is larger than my chest area so a increase in the back should fix the front. Also there was a bit of collar gap so I decreased the neck measurement and increased the upper arm (bicep/tricep) measurement.

I think you need to start from scratch.
Easy points,
Jacket is FAR too short.Eyballing and guessing, 3cm+ needed.
Sleeves are FAR too narrow, up and down.
You see where the top button is located? That is going to be far too high when jacket is lengthened if still a 2 button.
You are a big hombre, naturally. Go with it. Perhaps you are not at fighting weight but it is not as if you are just grossly overweight or with some big belly.
Big and powerful is good as long as you are not in a child's suit.
The amount of cuff shown looks acceptable on its own but something is wrong with the sleeve length. I think you have huge hands and I would wear slightly longer shirt sleeves
and thus a bit longer jacket sleeve. Also, the extra narrow sleeve might be contributing to the 'offness' of the length.
These are the most obvious issues.
Where do you live? Perhaps there is another tailoring option.

Thanks for the suggestions, read above for what I've changed so far. I just got back so I did not look into the sleeve length yet. Hmm, I've never been told I have big hands (on the contrary from what I know they are average/smaller) so maybe it's just the picture throwing it off. I might change the jacket length to be a bit longer.

Well definitely remaking the suit and no alterations can be done to fix it. Can anyone comment on the shoulders as that is what is most important to me.

Photo is shot quickly outside so don't mind the shoes and the lighting is terrible.

 

[docka]

bump for feedback, suit and dress shirt.