The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

[Betelgeuse]

Are you sure the shoulders will not fit if you go down? I think the front pic looks like it was taken with the camera angled downward so that accentuates the issues I see.
Overall, the jacket just looks too large. The pic from the back is better however. Still, jacket is long even for a classic length, I just do not think the proportion is good for you.
And I don't know if there has been a discussion by some of the resident experts of where the shoulder seam should sit, especially on someone with large shoulders. Not wide but large balls for the socket. Muscular, cannonballs whatever you want to call it. There can be such a difference as to the end of the acromion compared to the end of the 'shoulder' depending on build.
For someone with wide, developed shoulders, especially if your hips are not super wide(one can have an athletic V shape either way but some are more straight down, others former another angle) and your thighs not massive and wide, you don't want to create the illusion of widening the line across the top of the jacket. I think the shoulder seam should go more across the acromion(look that up,easier than my idiot self explaining) and not the 'end' of the shoulder. Yes, there is the question of where is the 'end' given shoulder are often rounding and not a cliff.
Anyway, I have gone on too long to say that the jacket looks too wide at the top line, too big in the chest and too long. I could add still too big in the waist. From the backside, much better, probably less of the same. A more perpendicular sleevehead attachment making the shoulder seam spread narrower more at the top than at the bottom of armhole.
Maybe if you have a picture without the jacket just to judge body type(I won't ask for your portfolio shirtless or nudes) and I could see if I believe you or myself more about the shoulders.

Hey gambit50, thanks for the response. You're right about the fisrt pic, I did noticed that. I have tried to go down and my delts pop out of the sleeve. Plus I don't have the chest to use a 44, but a 42 is too tight, since it measures 42.5". Problem is the shoulders, they are shifted foward, plus a bit of muscle and some large shoulders blades, expand the chest area of a 42 jacket and cause shoulder divots. That's why I'm asking if the chest can be shortened a little bit.

I looked for the what is the "acromion" and well, I will try to get a pic later of the size I used before (a 40) and the seam sits right there, at the acromion, and looks awful. I got a bespoke jacket and the measurement between the shoulder seams is 19" this one have 19.25" so it's not a huge difference. About the lenght, yes I think it's a bit too large but the regular, the button stance it's way high, and I don't like how it looks, plus jacket doesn't cover my butt. The jacket have 33" long, 32" would be perfect or 32.5" but I don't know if that can be fixed.

About the shirt, I understand, don't worry, I have this one of some I bought RTW, they weren't ironed yet nor washed. I just got the package that day and had to try them on. This have 19" across the shoulder seams and 45" chest. I can't go a size up, cause I use a 16" neck.

 

[garsag]

Some new pics that hopefully will suffice better than the ones from my previous post. Still pretty bad, I know, but I blame the camera and 3 lightbulbs that are broken.









From my previous post:
"I am completely new to tailoring, and also somewhat fresh to the odd jackets game. Anyhow, I snapped a L.B.M. 1911 sportscoat at 25% off at Bloomingdale's, which I now believe was done in too much of a rush. Any suggestions on this fit? Will it be worth the tailoring money (considering it's functional buttons etc.), or would I be better off returning it and find something else?"

 

[Canvas]

Hey everyone, should I get the waist taken in on this jacket? Snagged it on eBay, going to replace the worn-out painted braided leather buttons with horn, but I'm not sure if I should get the waist taken in. Keep in mind I'm eighteen; I'm not a fan of very tight jackets but I don't think I can pull off more comfortable styles as well as an older gent.
Also, from what I understand the collar on a jacket should pretty much stick to your neck. Is this too much of gap? It sits right when I don't flail my arms about as far as I can tell.
Thanks in advance for your advice.
PS: I realize the sweater and shirt are not appropriate, but this is the only clean shirt I have around right now.

Spoiler

 

[othertravel]

RLBL feedback needed:

Thoughts? Doable with minimal alterations?

 

[Betelgeuse]

I think at least is one size short. You should go one up.

 

[othertravel]



I think at least is one size short. You should go one up.

I tried a 42R and the shoulders get really wide.

I noticed it's a little tight around the waste, but I've been losing weight, so I don't want to take it out yet.

Thoughts on the chest and shoulders?

 

[OTCtailor]



Ballpark cost:  10 bucks, 50 bucks, 100 bucks, 200 bucks?

25ish

 

[OTCtailor]



Ballpark cost:  10 bucks, 50 bucks, 100 bucks, 200 bucks?

25ish

 

[OTCtailor]

Hang tight everyone I will get to your posts soon...busy out n about on appmt and in the sewing room...

 

[Flyswatter]

Do a tailor, Despos, and jefferyd every post in here anymore? After all, they were the tailors originally featured and advertised in this thread. What happened to them?

 

[sugarbutch]



RLBL feedback needed:

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

Thoughts? Doable with minimal alterations?

This does not fit you. If you don't like the shoulders in the size which does fit you, then you need to put it back on the rack and keep looking.

 

[bamboo]

Hi. This is my first post in this thread. I appreciate your feed back/critique about the fit.

Kerry Knoll Summon Cotton fabric 2 piece suit










My shirt sleeve is too short.

Is the jacket trimmed too much in the waist? Or is it better way of trimming?

 

[Betelgeuse]

I tried a 42R and the shoulders get really wide.

I noticed it's a little tight around the waste, but I've been losing weight, so I don't want to take it out yet.

Thoughts on the chest and shoulders?

This does not fit you. If you don't like the shoulders in the size which does fit you, then you need to put it back on the rack and keep looking.

I agree with Sugarbutch. The back photo, your shoulders look wider than the shoulders of the jacket.

 

[gambit50]



RLBL feedback needed:

Thoughts? Doable with minimal alterations?

Thought: You are not an RLBL man.

 

[gambit50]



Hey gambit50, thanks for the response. You're right about the fisrt pic, I did noticed that. I have tried to go down and my delts pop out of the sleeve. Plus I don't have the chest to use a 44, but a 42 is too tight, since it measures 42.5". Problem is the shoulders, they are shifted foward, plus a bit of muscle and some large shoulders blades, expand the chest area of a 42 jacket and cause shoulder divots. That's why I'm asking if the chest can be shortened a little bit. I looked for the what is the "acromion" and well, I will try to get a pic later of the size I used before (a 40) and the seam sits right there, at the acromion, and looks awful. I got a bespoke jacket and the measurement between the shoulder seams is 19" this one have 19.25" so it's not a huge difference. About the lenght, yes I think it's a bit too large but the regular, the button stance it's way high, and I don't like how it looks, plus jacket doesn't cover my butt. The jacket have 33" long, 32" would be perfect or 32.5" but I don't know if that can be fixed. About the shirt, I understand, don't worry, I have this one of some I bought RTW, they weren't ironed yet nor washed. I just got the package that day and had to try them on. This have 19" across the shoulder seams and 45" chest. I can't go a size up, cause I use a 16" neck.

Spoiler: Shirt fit.

Well,you certainly have some musculature to you.Glad you are not another one of the liars speaking about their ';athletic' build.And agreed about your shoulders pitching forward even from first pics. Still would like to see narrower shoulder jacket on you. Just a more perpendicular drop of the armhole would help as I said before. I just think you are creating too much of a top heavy look. Note, I have somewhat similar issues. Here is a crude pic with juvenile painting(only have a mouse,ugh). As for your shirt, I actually think it is too fitted. A bit grabby right below your pecs and around to the sides.

If you ever fully dislocate your shoulder from the socket, you will find the end of the acromion. I do not recommend this method even in the quest for exact sartorial measures.