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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    530
    Joined:
    Dec 24, 2012
    Location:
    Lehigh Valley, PA
    
     
  2. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    530
    Joined:
    Dec 24, 2012
    Location:
    Lehigh Valley, PA
    
     
  3. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    530
    Joined:
    Dec 24, 2012
    Location:
    Lehigh Valley, PA
    Replying from mobile Internet. My previous reply is embedded in the quotation somehow
     
  4. ebayhtl

    ebayhtl Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    456
    Joined:
    Sep 9, 2007
    Location:
    Hong Kong
    Hi OTC Tailor - didn't see your reply in the quotation, could you please try again? Thanks very much.
     
  5. ebayhtl

    ebayhtl Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    456
    Joined:
    Sep 9, 2007
    Location:
    Hong Kong
    Oh just saw your comment - thanks, it's hard to say what to do with the shirt, I'll ask the tailor again.
     
    Last edited: Dec 2, 2013
  6. NeedStyleHelp

    NeedStyleHelp Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    208
    Joined:
    Nov 25, 2012
    Location:
    Toronto
    Thanks.
     
  7. ovlov

    ovlov Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    604
    Joined:
    Apr 13, 2013
    Location:
    Adelaide
    Th
    Thanks. Not what I was hoping but oh well. Can you say what would have caused this problem In the measuring process (I purchased from a local mtm tailor). Would losing weight help the fit much since it would hopefully lose a bit of strain on the chest.?
     
  8. bware

    bware New Member

    Messages:
    3
    Joined:
    Oct 27, 2013
    Hello guys, frequent lurker but first time poster.

    I've just received my first MTM suit and shirt from BlackLapel. I severely underestimated how Slim Fit their Slim Fit suits are - I assumed that since everything I buy off the rack is slim fit, my suit would also be slim fit; unfortunately, it is a little too slim for my taste and for my body type.

    I've posted my initial thoughts on the fit at the bottom of this post; I'm sure I've missed some things, and I do not know how to fix each issue I've identified (i.e. which measurement would have to change and by how much). Any help would be much appreciated, even if it's just confirmation of the issues I've already identified. I intend to go to a tailor this weekend to get their opinion as well (tailor recommendations for the Arlington/DC area would be much appreciated!).


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    My initial thoughts:
    Shirt
    - fits better than any shirt I've ever owned
    - slightly tight in the shoulders, upper back, and biceps; add a half inch to each enough to get a little more range of motion? see picture 4 for example when I raise my arms straight out in front my me
    - armholes are quite high - it feels like the shirt is cutting into my armpit. best way to fix?
    - seems to be some extra fabric at my lower back, probably due to my posture. best way to fix?

    Suit Pants
    - way too tight for my taste. I will definitely get "Traditional Fit" next time. Some of the issues I've noticed may be due to the Slim Fit cut
    - Slight pocket flare; add an inch to the hips?
    - Thigh too tight (prevents me from sitting down) - property of Slim Fit cut?
    - Calves/ankle too tight - property of Slim Fit cut?
    - Legs too short - would half inch be enough?
    - some odd pulling going on in the seat area, probably due to super tight thighs though

    Suit Jacket
    - like the shirt, the armholes are quite high and seem to be cutting into my armpit. perhaps fixing this will fix some of the other problems
    - button point is too high - >an inch above my navel
    - jacket length too short - extra half inch enough to cover my butt?
    - slight shoulder dimples - would reducing the shoulder width by a half inch be too much? I think my next suit will also contain less padding - I think i prefer a more natural shoulder
    - bunching behind neck
    - waist too tight compared to hips - gives the jacket a feminine look?
    - biceps slightly tight
    - gap between chest and lapel
    - shirt collar does not hide behind jacket lapel - does this look like a problem of the jacket or should I get shirts with wider collars?

    For what it's worth, I'm happy with the suit; whether it requires a remake or a refund + start over, I think I will be ordering several more but I want to take my time with this first one to make sure the fit is right.
     
    Last edited: Dec 3, 2013
  9. Chris-ModaR

    Chris-ModaR Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    75
    Joined:
    Sep 16, 2013
    *deleted*
     
    Last edited: Dec 3, 2013
  10. Len

    Len Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    74
    Joined:
    May 8, 2004
    For a purple label suit, I think it's not bad. The balance appears good. The creasing at the back below the collar is due to tightness across your shoulders. I doubt there is anything you can do about that except pass the excess under the collar. truthfully, your coat will still not look good after that alteration, but I believe it's the best you will be able to do. But have your tailor look inside to see if some width can be given beforehand.

    The only other suggestion I have for you, and any poster, is to stand in more of a relaxed and natural manner when having photographs taken. Standing to attention is a natural thing to do when having a fitting or a photograph taken. But if its not how you stand naturally, it really doesn't help the final outcome. If i see someone standing erect when I measure or fit, I simply talk to them for a while. As they relax, I move and do my work while keeping the conversation going.

    Logsdail
     
  11. chucaieve

    chucaieve New Member

    Messages:
    4
    Joined:
    Dec 4, 2013
    You're wearing a jacket which is objectively too small in every aspect, so what you're asking is inane. If you want useful suggestions, find a jacket which fits reasonably well, take pics, and ask again. Or, just ask the tailor (whom you say you trust) when you're in the room and in front of the mirror. That person has the advantage of seeing you in three dimensions and in motion.
     
    Last edited: Dec 5, 2013
  12. JeffG

    JeffG Member

    Messages:
    10
    Joined:
    Nov 28, 2013
    Location:
    Zagreb, Croatia
    Hello everyone,

    Can someone tell me more about the most common issues with taking in the sides of a coat? I would like to have a coat altered to have more waist suppression. Is this possible and what are the most important rules?

    And what about having sleeves lengthened? Is it possible to have the sleeves lengthened for 1,5 cm (which is approximately 1/2 to 3/4 inch)?

    Many thanks!
     
  13. crunchyeggroll

    crunchyeggroll Member

    Messages:
    5
    Joined:
    Nov 2, 2013
    Hi,

    I just received this suit from Black Lapel. It is the first try. It hasn't been pressed so there are some wrinkles, mainly at the lower jacket back and front of arms. I still have the $75 tailoring credit I can use. My shoulder joint is at the shoulder seam, but not sure if it is too big as the padding is a very tiny bit past my shoulder joint. I see the back area around the blades and under the collar has some issues and looks too big. The arms in the back picture seem to have a lot of wrinkles and not sure if that can be fixed. The pants are too long. This might be due to the leg opening being slim fit and more narrow so it can't go over the shoe that far. Please let me know what should be done. Below is what I ordered and my measurements.

    Thanks!

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    Jacket Measurements:
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    Pants Measurements:
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  14. sean anon

    sean anon Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    150
    Joined:
    Jul 4, 2013
    This is an older totally unstructured sportcoat I have. I am trying to decide if this needs to go to Goodwill or is this fit is decent to wear very casually. I think it might just be too short or something else is just not quite right with the proportions. I do like the fabric quite a bit.

    Shoulder divot aside the side view

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  15. Len

    Len Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    74
    Joined:
    May 8, 2004
    The first problem is on the order form. Your body description is marked as 'normal" yet you are standing with an erect posture in your photograph. Is that how you normally stand? Or just when posing? This makes a big difference. The fabric at the back of your coat that is laying on your back side is completely due to wrong posture. When you stand in an erect manner the fabric falls downwards. If that is your normal stance, then the fitter got it wrong. If you normally stand in a more relaxed manner, then he did not. you are causing the problem. It's the same for the back of the sleeves, too. Stand erect and you'll get creasing at the back of your sleeves. Logsdail
     
  16. indigoroots

    indigoroots Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    58
    Joined:
    Nov 30, 2013
    Location:
    Durham, NC
    Would love advice on the fit of this peacoat. A few specific areas of concern:

    1) Just got the waist taken in but it looks lopsided at the bottom. Anyone else see this or is it just me?
    2) Should I have the waist taken in even more? Only plan to wear this coat with thin sweater + dress shirt as in the pictures. No need to have a suit fit underneath.
    3) Armhole opening too wide at the wrist?
    4) Armhole too wide from the elbow to the shoulder? If so, should I ask the tailor to take fabric away from the bicep side or the tricep side?

    Thanks!
     
    Last edited: Dec 14, 2013
  17. crunchyeggroll

    crunchyeggroll Member

    Messages:
    5
    Joined:
    Nov 2, 2013
    I believe I was standing normally. I didn't get fitted but had a friend measure me. For the posture/back shape, I selected normal according to the pictures below. My back does curve like how it does in the "Normal" picture.
    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]


    I also emailed Black Lapel's Concierge for their "second opinion" and they replied:

    Quote: Thanks for your input.
     
  18. Len

    Len Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    74
    Joined:
    May 8, 2004
    The order form is off-putting and does not really effect the stance options properly. I can see how you would mark your posture as normal. Truthfully, I see you as standing erect.


    I hesitate to comment on the suggestions given to you by the RL Concierge as I can not see the coat too well. (too dark) A word of caution, though. If you have large biceps and have creasing on your sleeves, I believe there would be a good chance that, by reducing them as suggested, you would only make the matter worse. I might be able to advise better with clarity of photo

    Logsdail
     
  19. svdkerkhof

    svdkerkhof New Member

    Messages:
    1
    Joined:
    Dec 11, 2013
    Hi, I'm new to both this forum and to tailored clothing but i thought it was about time to start with both. I ordered a MTM shirt from luxire and i'm very impressed with the workmanship. The fit allover is allright (when taking in account that i figured out the measurements myself).
    I was wondering if i could get some pointers from the experts on this forum.
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    [​IMG] I wanted this shirt to be short so i could wear it casual, the next one wil be longer to wear as a dress shirt. The sleeves are a bit to big for my taste so that is something i will change. Can't wait to get some feedback so i can place my next order.

    Thanks in advance!
     
  20. kulata

    kulata Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,834
    Joined:
    Nov 13, 2008
    Increase the armhole measurement, the sleeves are fine.
     

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