The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

[Veridis]

well, it's a personal preference thing then, 1.5 inch is a lot consider where the jacket is now. Wouldn't the jacket be almost the same length as your sleeve (you can do a quick measurement), even BBBF is not that short. I don't think it will look good, if you really want to cut it, then perhaps 0.5 inch?

That is a good point you mention, like you I would prefer the jacket to be at least a bit longer than the sleeve. If I take the sleeve up 0.5" I think it is possible to take the jacket up another inch. I may have it tailored instead if it is an easy fix.

Vests and belts are kind of tricky. Remember the basic function of a vest is to cover your trouser-holder-uppers - but when vests were actually invented and commonly worn, your trouser-holder-uppers were suspenders, not a belt. There really isn't a 'correct' fit for a vest in relation to a belt, because vests weren't really designed to be worn with belts; if they were, they wouldn't have that notch.

Now that you mention it, I think I should really try a pair of suspenders or go beltless...

 

[dusttruffle]

Expecting delivery of a unconstructed sportscoat with spalla camicia shoulders with working cuffs.

Assuming it fits everywhere else, do the spalla camicia shoulders (as opposed to more conventional shoulders) present any problems for a tailor to adjust sleeve length from the cap?

 

[katabatic]

Assuming it fits everywhere else, do the spalla camicia shoulders (as opposed to more conventional shoulders) present any problems for a tailor to adjust sleeve length from the cap?

I had the sleeves of a Suit Supply Sienna (which has the spalla camicia) adjusted at the shoulder (by Andreas Gorges in San Francisco), and it came out beautifully - I can't tell the difference between the factory-attached shoulder and the alteration (aside from the fact that it fits better now, of course).

Obviously, it costs more, but it shouldn't present any particular problem for a skilled tailor.

 

[OTCtailor]



Hmm, yeah now that you mention it this suit does seem to accentuate my sloped shoulders, which no other article of clothing seems to create this effect (at least not as drastically). I'm wondering if these slim fit suits just don't work that well with my body's structure. I'm 5'10 180lbs., fairly athletic, but this blazer appears to make my upper body look shrunk a little bit if that makes any sense. I will make due with this now and maybe not let my arms hang so limply at my side while wearing it. And I'll likely visit OTCtailor next time to get a better idea of what works better for me.

FYI I will be in Harrisburg next Friday the 19th for various appointments. PM me if you're interested in catching up.

 

[Betelgeuse]

Tailors,

I got this SC back from my tailor yesterday, he did some minor waist supression. But my sister told me yesterday that she thinks in the chest area looks big. And with the fisrt pic I think she's right, what do you think? Could that be an easy fix?

 

[evpj2L]

I'd greatly appreciate feedback on my latest attempt at a MTM OCBD. Thoughts on overall fit?

 

[OTCtailor]



Tailors, I got this SC back from my tailor yesterday, he did some minor waist supression. But my sister told me yesterday that she thinks in the chest area looks big. And with the fisrt pic I think she's right, what do you think? Could that be an easy fix?

Could just suppress the front darts...will give shape to that area. It is limited, though. Also if its full canvas there has to be an adjustment to the canvas too

 

[Flyswatter]



I'd greatly appreciate feedback on my latest attempt at a MTM OCBD. Thoughts on overall fit?

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

I'm not a tailor but I'll comment anyway: fit looks pretty good, though there is some unsightly pulling at the third button from the top (first buttoned button). Perhaps a tailor can comment as to how to remedy it, but my guess is it's a bit too tight in the chest. Also odd that while the collar points seem fairly long, there is no roll whatsoever. Perhaps the collar buttons need to be moved up about a quarter of an inch or so.

 

[OTCtailor]



I'd greatly appreciate feedback on my latest attempt at a MTM OCBD. Thoughts on overall fit?

It looks a little short. Next one you do just measure from the highest point of your trap muscle straight down to the base of your crotch. If you plan to wear it mostly tucked in then it should be close to the length of A jacket. If not tucked, the tails should def be shallow like they are now. So are you wearing this untucked or tucked. Right now it looks like it would fairly easily come untucked with a little bit of movement.

 

[nautikal]



I'm not a tailor but I'll comment anyway: fit looks pretty good, though there is some unsightly pulling at the third button from the top (first buttoned button). Perhaps a tailor can comment as to how to remedy it, but my guess is it's a bit too tight in the chest. Also odd that while the collar points seem fairly long, there is no roll whatsoever. Perhaps the collar buttons need to be moved up about a quarter of an inch or so.

Based on the direction of pulling, it looks like the shoulder needs to be cut more square. evpj2L, try forcing your shoulders down a bit to see if that alleviates some of that pulling.

See here. Get a tailor's advice too (I am not one).

 

[Betelgeuse]



Could just suppress the front darts...will give shape to that area. It is limited, though. Also if its full canvas there has to be an adjustment to the canvas too

Thanks OTC! The front darts are the "lines" that go from the chest to the pocket? Is it an easy fix? It is full canvas.

 

[OTCtailor]

It should be for a decent tailor. The canvas does complicate things a bit tho.

 

[eluther]



It looks a little short. Next one you do just measure from the highest point of your trap muscle straight down to the base of your crotch. If you plan to wear it mostly tucked in then it should be close to the length of A jacket. If not tucked, the tails should def be shallow like they are now. So are you wearing this untucked or tucked. Right now it looks like it would fairly easily come untucked with a little bit of movement.

If you don't want to have to tuck the shirt in its fine. Looks like a Gitman Vintage-style oxford. I always have to tuck mine back in after sitting down if I'm wearing jeans, but it's fine with trousers.

 

[OTCtailor]

If you don't want to have to tuck the shirt in its fine. Looks like a Gitman Vintage-style oxford. I always have to tuck mine back in after sitting down if I'm wearing jeans, but it's fine with trousers.

one has a higher rise than the other most likely.

 

[kushburner]

delete