The State of Black Tie: Your Observations

[upr_crust]

Thanks, but those aren’t really what I’m looking for. Basically, a high vamped opera pump would fit the bill.

Perhaps these from Carmina would suit your requirements?

OPERA PUMPS 80445 UETAM

BLACK PATENT OPERA PUMPS...

www.carminashoemaker.com

 

[Baked Potato]

Perhaps these from Carmina would suit your requirements?

OPERA PUMPS 80445 UETAM

BLACK PATENT OPERA PUMPS...

www.carminashoemaker.com

Thank you! Those look more like it! Although they seem to be Goodyear welted, which gives such a formal shoe perhaps a bit of a clumsy look. I found these. What do you guys think? They’re rather well priced too (costing less than half the Carmina counterpart).

 

[acconrad]

Thanks, but those aren’t really what I’m looking for. Basically, a high vamped opera pump would fit the bill.

First of all, opera pumps rule. I own them, wore them on my wedding, and to every black tie event since. Way more comfortable than other patent shoes, way cooler, and also if anyone notices no one is going to diss them - they're the ultimate IYKYK shoe.

Now that said, and totally do what you want, just FYI an opera pump is supposed to be low vamp. That's because they're meant to be dancing shoes with what are traditionally wider leg openings. When black tie was more common, leg openings on pants were wider, and in fact, historically, you wanted your pants covering as much of your shoes/feet as possible. So with opera pumps, the low vamp was for being able to still see the bows even with your black tie pants on (and also for ease of slipping on and off between dancing).

I only say this because an opera pump is already a very traditional style that is already going to set you apart. So if you want a traditional shoe, go with a traditional style. If you want something more modern, you might want to skip the opera pump all together and go with say a patent oxford or wholecut.

 

[Andy57]

Thank you all for your replies! I just wanted to add that I already own a classic black tuxedo, so this is just a "fun" addition to the wardrobe.

I was also thinking of getting a pair of opera pumps. Would that be "too much", considering that a velvet dinner jacket might be a bit "extra" according to some? Something I really don't like about opera pumps is the very low cut of the shoe. Something with a tad higher vamp, but still having all the other classic attributes of the model would be perfect, but perhaps not quite as right.

Of course Opera Pumps would not be too much. If you find a pair you like, go for it.

Formal loafers are an option but pumps are classic, they’d only be considered “too much” by somebody who doesn’t know black tie, and those people would turn up their noses at the velvet jacket too, so hell with them.

Exactly this. Only I would have put it a little more pithily.

If, as you say, you already have straight-down-the-middle classic black tie covered, then where you go from there is up to you and why worry about what anyone else might think? They are probably not thinking about you, anyway (it's a classic fallacy) or, if they are, they're almost certainly envious. The only dialog you should have is with yourself. When you walk into a room, know that you are the best-dressed man in the room. Unless I'm in the room, then you'll be the second-best dressed. Wear what you want and wear it with confidence. That's the only secret, really.

Or, alternatively, if you care what other people think, for a man wearing black tie there is only one goal: when you walk in the room you want all the women to notice, then turn to their man and realize that they took a wrong turn somewhere. It's more complex if you are a woman, though, because the goal there is to make all the women hate you and all the men weep tears of bitter regret. Simple, really.

I feel I missed my calling. I should have been a life coach.

 

[Andy57]

Thank you! Those look more like it! Although they seem to be Goodyear welted, which gives such a formal shoe perhaps a bit of a clumsy look. I found these. What do you guys think? They’re rather well priced too (costing less than half the Carmina counterpart).

Brooks Brothers has these for $99 on sale at the moment. For $99 how can you go wrong?

Brooks Brothers Opera Pumps

 

[The Dirty Pigeon]

Thank you! Those look more like it! Although they seem to be Goodyear welted, which gives such a formal shoe perhaps a bit of a clumsy look. I found these. What do you guys think? They’re rather well priced too (costing less than half the Carmina counterpart).

Just an FYI, I ordered a custom pair of these Carmina shoes and asked for the thin sole with rounded edges along with closed channel sole stitching and they look a lil more elegant.

Brooks Brothers has these for $99 on sale at the moment. For $99 how can you go wrong?

Brooks Brothers Opera Pumps

i saw this a while ago but it looks like they are sold out of all sizes. Do you have a trick for making them appear orderable?

 

[Andy57]

i saw this a while ago but it looks like they are sold out of all sizes. Do you have a trick for making them appear orderable?

Oh, no! Sorry, I did not notice that. D'oh!

 

[Cause Moe]

Formal loafers are an option but pumps are classic, they’d only be considered “too much” by somebody who doesn’t know black tie, and those people would turn up their noses at the velvet jacket too, so hell with them.

Spotlight: Formal Loafers

When I was first assembling my black-tie kit I was attracted to the distinguishing swank of formal pumps but ran into a few obstacles in my quest to obtain a pair. First and foremost, such footwea…

theblacktieblog.wordpress.com

Yes. And to hell with those people who would turn up their noses at bull-shined calfskin shoes without the plastic coating, turn-down collars, cummerbunds that don't exactly match the lapel facing fabric, or vented jackets.

 

[upr_crust]

Brooks Brothers has these for $99 on sale at the moment. For $99 how can you go wrong?

Brooks Brothers Opera Pumps

These are what I bought from the UK for opera pumps - fairly priced, and with some customizable features . . .

Mens Patent Leather Evening Pumps - Broadland Slippers

Buy Evening pumps in black patent leather or plain calf. Available with pinched or flat petersham bows, the quilted lining offering comfort.

www.broadlandslippers.co.uk

 

[quigleysr]

Thank you! Those look more like it! Although they seem to be Goodyear welted, which gives such a formal shoe perhaps a bit of a clumsy look. I found these. What do you guys think? They’re rather well priced too (costing less than half the Carmina counterpart).

I was also looking for something with a higher vamp and bought those Yankos from Skolyx, but to my eyes they ended up looking/feeling only marginally different than traditional pumps. YMMV and it might be enough for you but I ended up returning them.

 

[Baked Potato]

I was also looking for something with a higher vamp and bought those Yankos from Skolyx, but to my eyes they ended up looking/feeling only marginally different than traditional pumps. YMMV and it might be enough for you but I ended up returning them.

I’ll probably give them a try. It’s actually that marginal difference I’m out after.

 

[Mark from Plano]

More to come. Just had our engagement photo shoot haven’t gotten the real shots back yet. Just this iPhone snap.

 

[Steepleman]

Does anyone have any experience with Hainsworth’s black dress barathea for a dinner jacket (or I suppose formal dress in general)? It is lighter weight (280 gsm) than their ordinary barathea (400 gsm) and might be cooler.

 

[The Dirty Pigeon]

I finally got myself a set of proper suspenders for my black tie ensemble. I’m looking forward to wearing these on NYE.

 

[The Chai]

Does anyone have any experience with Hainsworth’s black dress barathea for a dinner jacket (or I suppose formal dress in general)? It is lighter weight (280 gsm) than their ordinary barathea (400 gsm) and might be cooler.

My first tux I had was made from Hainsworth barathea but bear in mind the 280g is per linear meter which translates roughly to 400 GSM. It's quite good considering it's price but there are nicer baratheas out there. The hand is not as soft compared to say a dugdales, schofield smith, bateman ogden or other equivalents but it is half the price ¯\_(ツ)_/¯