The Berluti shoe thread

[othertravel]

I think this has been discussed before, but nothing wrong with Blake Rapid. But for the price, I'd rather get these:

TOM FORD Leather Cap-Toe Oxfords | Dress Shoes | Harry Rosen

These luxurious dress shoes showcase TOM FORD's unerringly sophisticated sensibility. The polished dark brown calf leather lace-ups are endlessly versatile and can be worn alongside tailored outfits for office attire and your most formal events.

www.harryrosen.com

 

[shirtingfantasy]

I can tell your affection for this brand. I don’t mean Blake is inferior, but the way BERLUTI finish is kind of a shame.
View attachment 2132047

I think this construction and finishing is used for their more casual shoes.

Dress shoes from the formal shoes product lines usually have “closed channel” soles, be it Blake stitched or Goodyear welted.

 

[shirtingfantasy]

Can past shoe models (non-bespoke) be special ordered?

Yes. Just approach your preferred sales associate.

The surcharge is around 30%, and the options not really many (they have constraints on how you can combine things, and you can’t really choose the last or do MTM-like adjustments). But it’s a way to realise some very unique combinations of their signature stuff: laser-engraved suede (“scritto suede”), smooth crust leather (“Venezia leather”), some special sole options etc.

Even if one may not need some of the variety and options afforded, it is also the only way to resurrect some excellent past models from their pre-designer era. Some of the “Olga” models are very Italian and remarkable.

Below shows a pair of Andy per special order:



And another chukka boots example, with Norwegian stitch added (original model is Blake):



Changing the colour of leather, obviously, then, is too small to be mentioned. It comes standard with normal purchases anyway - although you can get lighter or special shades as the base crust leather is almost white when you order special order (for RTW I think the leather has a grey or brown base for most models, so it’s not possible to go too light with the patina or have something like bright blue or pink).

 

[shirtingfantasy]

How great things age - 1

Berluti “Andy” Infini, purchased in 2021. Regularly worn, especially on rainy days since they’ve got rubber soles. Trees were originally natural but I dyed them green myself. Nourished with Famaco “Delicate Gel” and Berluti (Avel) Wax.

I don’t think the Blake construction on this pair really mattered. 😉

 

[shirtingfantasy]

How great things age - 2

Berluti “Alessandro” 3-eyelet oxford. Purchased in 2019. Patina touch-up in 2020/21 by store patina artist. Nourished exclusively using wax and high shine coat (Bootblack) to preserve “depth” of colours as creams tend to be opaque - unlike layers of waxes that can often achieve a crystal-like effect.

 

[Proleet]

I think this has been discussed before, but nothing wrong with Blake Rapid. But for the price, I'd rather get these:

TOM FORD Leather Cap-Toe Oxfords | Dress Shoes | Harry Rosen

These luxurious dress shoes showcase TOM FORD's unerringly sophisticated sensibility. The polished dark brown calf leather lace-ups are endlessly versatile and can be worn alongside tailored outfits for office attire and your most formal events.

www.harryrosen.com

I don’t mind Blake rapid either but for 3.5k it’s laughable imo it’s not hand lasted. I mean compare those shoes with say other fukuda that cost substantially less. These are basically Santoni shoes with a tattoo

 

[Texasmade]

I don’t mind Blake rapid either but for 3.5k it’s laughable imo it’s not hand lasted. I mean compare those shoes with say other fukuda that cost substantially less. These are basically Santoni shoes with a tattoo

Someone needs to pay for Bernard Arnault’s kids.

 

[shirtingfantasy]

I don’t mind Blake rapid either but for 3.5k it’s laughable imo it’s not hand lasted. I mean compare those shoes with say other fukuda that cost substantially less. These are basically Santoni shoes with a tattoo

It depends on whether we are always referring to the MSRP. I think one thing with these “luxury” brands is that people are often able to get items at 20-50% of the marked price, which makes the value/cost considerations substantially different.

For example, a pair of John Lobb (Paris) Prestige RTW retails for around GBP 1700; the same pair could be available from some outlet sale (e.g. Arlettie) a season later for GBP 300. It’s Goodyear welted, not hand-lasted, and certainly not at the same level of finishing as Yohei Fukuda or any of the higher tier workshops. But are they great shoes? I would say yes, especially at GBP 300! 😂



P.S. There are clearly “staff sale” stuff from the LVMH group at eBay, Vestiaire and the like. Buying a pair taking advantage of the good price may be sensible.

 

[othertravel]

For high-end, Blake-rapid shoes, I prefer something like this:

No tattoos!

 

[Jamesbond1]

For high-end, Blake-rapid shoes, I prefer something like this:

View attachment 2175517

No tattoos!

Can’t justify paying $2300 Canadian for Blake . At that price point there are so many better options that are GYW!

You are in St. Crispin, Scafora, JL territory here no match!!

 

[othertravel]

Can’t justify paying $2300 Canadian for Blake . At that price point there are so many better options that are GYW!

You are in St. Crispin, Scafora, JL territory here no match!!

SC and Scafora don’t make shoes like the one above - very different aesthetic. JL has some resemblance, but looking at closer to $3K CAD for prestige.

All that to say, TF has carved out a niche for itself as providing a certain type of style. Can’t say the same for a lot of other brands.

 

[jonathanS]

SC and Scafora don’t make shoes like the one above - very different aesthetic. JL has some resemblance, but looking at closer to $3K CAD for prestige.

All that to say, TF has carved out a niche for itself as providing a certain type of style. Can’t say the same for a lot of other brands.

Totally agreed: Berluti has a very distinctive aesthetic.

 

[othertravel]

Totally agreed: Berluti has a very distinctive aesthetic.

I do like the Chelseas posted up top.