The State of Black Tie: Your Observations

[gimpwiz]

Honestly, pre-tying an adjustable bowtie has been mentioned before in this thread, and is a primo trick to people who are concerned about getting it right on the wedding day. A bunch of practice might be better, but not necessarily more practical. I know it took like 5 of us to tie mine on my wedding day because it was my 2nd time doing it.

 

[classicalthunde]

Honestly, pre-tying an adjustable bowtie has been mentioned before in this thread, and is a primo trick to people who are concerned about getting it right on the wedding day. A bunch of practice might be better, but not necessarily more practical. I know it took like 5 of us to tie mine on my wedding day because it was my 2nd time doing it.

I practiced almost everyday for 6 weeks leading up to my wedding to make it routine. Had it down pat with plenty of time to go …still took me a half a dozen times to get it right on the big day

 

[gimpwiz]

Mhm. It is important to remember that wedding days cause a lot of stomach butterflies, and stuff that's obvious and easy when you're going to a new year's party (or whatever) is suddenly an issue when the ceremony is in 45 minutes. Simplicity is not necessarily key, but it certainly helps. So does a relaxed, lengthy time pre-ceremony to get all your issues sorted out.

 

[solid_olid]

3. I went with a dark purple for my black tuxedo, I think for an ivory DJ you would certainly want to go with something lighter (may be a pure white for some contrast, or a matching ivory/cream for a seamless look). At the baseline you dont want the lining to be a distraction from the outfit.

4. my watch is a 5-digit reference "Pepsi" Rolex GMT with the red and blue bezel, its definitively a sports watch but also subtle enough to go unnoticed. Is it 'proper' black tie to wear it with my tux, no. But, I wear it 98% of the time and 99% of the people I know haven't the slightest of basic black tie rules let alone one as subtle as not wearing a watch. As long as a) you want to and b) it fits under your shirt cuff I say go with it.

As @gimpwiz noted, your best bet is to bring some pics to MAB to show him what you're looking for. Below are my two favorite examples of a peak and shawl lapel dinner jackets. If it were me, this is the style and lapel proportions/shapes I would aim for (note how the lapel is a bit wider than the halfway mark on the peak, and a bit short of it on the shawl).

Anderson and Sheppard:
View attachment 1877700

Huntsman:
View attachment 1877701

I absolutely love this peak. I’m doing MTM not bespoke so I don’t think I have that much choice but if I did I’d ask for this (slightly narrower though).

 

[Krish the Fish]

I had my tux made with no pockets except for one rear pocket so I wouldn’t reflexively put my hands in my pockets. I highly recommend it for people who are animated with their hands. No vents is my ideal scenario but I realize I am a purist and live to suffer for correctness.

I leave lapels to my tailor because he has done it for a lot longer than I have and he is quite good at his gig, as I am at mine. Watch is personal preference,

I have a Tank LC I wear with my tux as well as my wedding band, my signet ring and occasionally a gold Cartier Juste un Clou bracelet. I don’t wear a dive watch or a pilot watch with my tux but that’s again personal preference.

Accessories are fun for black tie. I have a pair of hand monogrammed navy cashmere slippers from Foster, black velvet slippers from them, patent opera pumps, and black calf Yohei Fukuda wholecuts I got married in. They all get wear at different events. When I was the best man for my brother’s wedding I wore my black Lobb City IIs with a heavy mirror shine because I didn’t want to show up the groom. It’s all good. Black tie is about simplicity.

 

[rollerkilt]

Assuming a lay down collar on the shirts, an even better style of bow tie would be a single ended. You adjust it every time you tie it, and no shoving a loop (bight) through. I've never tried one, but I get how it works since I can tie bows. They aren't very common online, or in the US.

Pocket watch in the watch pocket of the cummerbund, I suppose with some kind of black ribbon fob so it isn't seen until you look. That's if you know someone with one, or know any good ones for sale. It may be too much to add another thing to shop for and buy.

 

[etostano]

For the ivory DJ, suggest full lining in white/ivory. Bemberg since it wears cooler than silk. Reason being that ivory fabrics tend to be more see-through, and this avoids potentially having the black trousers (or anything else e.g. braces) showing through.

 

[Veremund]

ok, I recognize that's the formal/proper option, but I do not have such a watch. I might just go watchless for both the ceremony and reception.

This beauty is $33 online. Perfect watch for black tie.

 

[Veremund]

Or this one brand new for $150.

 

[JohnMRobie]

My 2¢ - Don’t buy a cheap dress watch just to have a dress watch to wear to your wedding. If you want a dress watch anyways and want something you can hang onto as a keepsake then sure find a good dress watch you like. But watches, dress or otherwise, aren’t a requirement or even a part of a rig.

 

[DavidJordan]

3. I went with a dark purple for my black tuxedo, I think for an ivory DJ you would certainly want to go with something lighter (may be a pure white for some contrast, or a matching ivory/cream for a seamless look). At the baseline you dont want the lining to be a distraction from the outfit.

4. my watch is a 5-digit reference "Pepsi" Rolex GMT with the red and blue bezel, its definitively a sports watch but also subtle enough to go unnoticed. Is it 'proper' black tie to wear it with my tux, no. But, I wear it 98% of the time and 99% of the people I know haven't the slightest of basic black tie rules let alone one as subtle as not wearing a watch. As long as a) you want to and b) it fits under your shirt cuff I say go with it.

As @gimpwiz noted, your best bet is to bring some pics to MAB to show him what you're looking for. Below are my two favorite examples of a peak and shawl lapel dinner jackets. If it were me, this is the style and lapel proportions/shapes I would aim for (note how the lapel is a bit wider than the halfway mark on the peak, and a bit short of it on the shawl).

Anderson and Sheppard:
View attachment 1877700

Huntsman:
View attachment 1877701

3. thank you, this is helpful. I think I will go with a dark royal blue, but lighter than midnight and navy.

4. That's a beautiful watch! One of my colleagues has one as well. I'll definitely go watchless with black DJ for the ceremony, maybe I'll sneak the dive watch under the cuff with ivory DJ for the cocktail hour and reception.

yes, that's a good idea, I'll share some pictures with MAB. My fitting is coming up next week.

 

[DavidJordan]

1. No vents
2. Talk to your MTM guy about proportions
3. Black full lined, ivory half lined.
4. Ditch the watch for your wedding. The best man, planner and day of staff will keep you on schedule.

thank you, this is helpful!

 

[DavidJordan]

Sounds like you'll look great which is the number one goal for your wedding day.

1) No vent is most correct and will look the best but 1-2 vents gives you more mobility for things like putting your arms around someone for a picture for example. These days, people are just impressed that you're wearing a tux at all.

4) As said before, no watch is needed. A minimal, black dress watch with no complications is acceptable if you feel you really need a watch. Dive watches, like snorkel tips, are a mismatch because they are inherently sport/casual while a tuxedo is the polar opposite. BUT, if you really want to wear a dive watch and your wife-to-be is on board. Go for it as it's your big day.

Bow-Tie: Le Noeud Papillon, self-tie adjustable modified butterfly bow-tie in Mogador silk satin (I received this several months back and have practiced tying it a few times, it is my first self-tie bow tie).
Just pre-tie the bow a week before so it can be slipped on when needed. Your wedding day isn't the time to be working on your bow tying skills.

Shoes: George Cleverley, ready-to-wear "Harry" model black patent leather plain-toe oxfords with no broguing, with satin shoestrings pulled in a parallel arrangement.
Very nice looking shoes. Personally, I would have recommended non-tie shoes as your mental state will be fuzzy and worrying about your shoe laces is just another complication for an already complicated day.

Thank you for the kind words and insights!

1) How will no vents and on a related note, buttoning the single button to close the front of the jacket, affect dancing, such as for the first dance, which may include me lifting and spinning my wife?

4) Ok great, thank you for sharing.

That's interesting, I had not considered pre-tying my bow-tie. I might do that. Or I might keep practicing and tie it on the day of.

Thank you again!

 

[DavidJordan]

Honestly, pre-tying an adjustable bowtie has been mentioned before in this thread, and is a primo trick to people who are concerned about getting it right on the wedding day. A bunch of practice might be better, but not necessarily more practical. I know it took like 5 of us to tie mine on my wedding day because it was my 2nd time doing it.

I agree, that is a nifty trick. I might pre-tie the bow tie.

 

[DavidJordan]

I had my tux made with no pockets except for one rear pocket so I wouldn’t reflexively put my hands in my pockets. I highly recommend it for people who are animated with their hands. No vents is my ideal scenario but I realize I am a purist and live to suffer for correctness.

I leave lapels to my tailor because he has done it for a lot longer than I have and he is quite good at his gig, as I am at mine. Watch is personal preference,

I have a Tank LC I wear with my tux as well as my wedding band, my signet ring and occasionally a gold Cartier Juste un Clou bracelet. I don’t wear a dive watch or a pilot watch with my tux but that’s again personal preference.

Accessories are fun for black tie. I have a pair of hand monogrammed navy cashmere slippers from Foster, black velvet slippers from them, patent opera pumps, and black calf Yohei Fukuda wholecuts I got married in. They all get wear at different events. When I was the best man for my brother’s wedding I wore my black Lobb City IIs with a heavy mirror shine because I didn’t want to show up the groom. It’s all good. Black tie is about simplicity.

Excellent insights, thank you Krish!