the profoundly unofficial I Sarti Italiani thread

[UrbanComposition]

Heyoooo

Yes, @circumspice is correct in that I've pushed Salvo for a cut that he (and most Italians) would normally never do. Salvo himself prefers suits on the slim side, but he has noticed that more and more customers (even in Italy) are asking for more room. I've gotten him to the point where I like it, even dialed it back a bit, but this is over 7 or so years of commissioning all sorts of craziness.

My recommendation is to get a silhouette that makes you happy, but don't be surprised if that slowly changes over time. The nice thing about traveling tailors is that you build a relationship with them as you begin to create a fit and style that, while not entirely unique, is representative of your tastes.

This time I'm going for a polo coat and brown DB (I know, another DB) in brown wollen/worsted twist.

 

[classicalthunde]

Heyoooo

Yes, @circumspice is correct in that I've pushed Salvo for a cut that he (and most Italians) would normally never do. Salvo himself prefers suits on the slim side, but he has noticed that more and more customers (even in Italy) are asking for more room. I've gotten him to the point where I like it, even dialed it back a bit, but this is over 7 or so years of commissioning all sorts of craziness.

My recommendation is to get a silhouette that makes you happy, but don't be surprised if that slowly changes over time. The nice thing about traveling tailors is that you build a relationship with them as you begin to create a fit and style that, while not entirely unique, is representative of your tastes.

This time I'm going for a polo coat and brown DB (I know, another DB) in brown wollen/worsted twist.

ooooh, let us know how the polo coat goes!

 

[Buggy]

Does Anyone have the price of trousers if I send in my own fabric?

I’ve been looking at getting a couple pairs of wool trousers and I am deciding between RTW pairs in the range of Berg&Berg/O’Connell’s which both fit me pretty well but I would need some alterations, so I’m wondering if just having Salvo do them is more worth it at that point.

 

[circumspice]

Spring US dates:
NYC Mar 9-15th
LA Apr 20-22
SF Apr 13-18

Looking at Buggy's post above, I realize I don't think I Sarti hit me with an invoice yet - I am having a second fitting on a suit, but should be having a first fitting on some trousers coming up.

 

[ppk]

Does anyone know their West Coast fall dates - especially San Francisco? Their website seems to be down and they haven't responded on Instagram. Thanks.

 

[smooth bernie]

Does anyone know their West Coast fall dates - especially San Francisco? Their website seems to be down and they haven't responded on Instagram. Thanks.

I did receive e-mail replies from them some time ago, so if you don't get a response, I'd try sending an e-mail to customer [at] isartitaliani [dot] eu

Also, purely out of curiosity: which changes to the silhouette do you guys recommend in general from I Sarti Italiani/which changes do you request yourself?

Derek mentioned the following changes on page 1 that Peter typically requests: "fuller chest, mappina shoulders, slightly extended shoulders". Given how great the fit is of Peter's suits from ISI, these sounds very appealing, but I'm wondering if other people have very different preferences

 

[ppk]

I did receive e-mail replies from them some time ago, so if you don't get a response, I'd try sending an e-mail to customer [at] isartitaliani [dot] eu

Also, purely out of curiosity: which changes to the silhouette do you guys recommend in general from I Sarti Italiani/which changes do you request yourself?

Derek mentioned the following changes on page 1 that Peter typically requests: "fuller chest, mappina shoulders, slightly extended shoulders". Given how great the fit is of Peter's suits from ISI, these sounds very appealing, but I'm wondering if other people have very different preferences

Thanks. They responded to me on IG and I'm on their email list now. They are coming to SF in October/November.

Those changes are exactly what I'm going to ask for, plus a drape in the chest. Essentially, it's more of an English Cut, but they seem to be good at this style.

 

[DSze9010]

Personally, I simply asked for the Peter Zottolo-cut. Claudio (who is the translator) also referred to it as the American cut. So I don't think that it is necessary to specify it much further. However, my first and second fitting turned out somewhat on the slimmer side, especially with the trousers, the shoulder and the upper Arms which I pointed out. Hopefully, the final result will be better...

 

[ppk]

Personally, I simply asked for the Peter Zottolo-cut. Claudio (who is the translator) also referred to it as the American cut. So I don't think that it is necessary to specify it much further. However, my first and second fitting turned out somewhat on the slimmer side, especially with the trousers, the shoulder and the upper Arms which I pointed out. Hopefully, the final result will be better...

I've been corresponding with Claudio and he did refer to it as the American cut.

 

[seanstshibe]

Hello everyone! Anyone else finding that the ISI site is down? I've emailed asking about North American trunk shows this coming autumn but can't find much info online.

 

[ppk]

Hello everyone! Anyone else finding that the ISI site is down? I've emailed asking about North American trunk shows this coming autumn but can't find much info online.

Yeah. It's been down for a while. I sent a DM via Instagram and Claudio responded the next day.

They are going to be in San Francisco October/November.

 

[MarxismWinsAgain]

Hello, does anyone have experience with commissioning overcoats from ISI? I’m keen to see some examples

 

[philly83745]

Hi all,
Long time reader, first time poster in need of advice. I've scheduled an appointment with ISI on the 31st in NYC. First bespoke suit in 20+ years (since my wedding). I stopped wearing suits for work years ago but would like to add some new ones back into the wardrobe for various occasions that are popping up more frequently. Weddings, funerals, graduations, date nights with the wife, etc. I absolutely love the new silhouette that Peter Z. helped create with ISI and hope to create something very similar to the image below (yes, 3 piece). My question is what fabric do people think would be appropriate. I'm looking for a general purpose, 3 season suit that can fill many roles and look great in all of them.

I know from his Insta that Peter did the suit below in Navy Ascot 4-ply. And my wife has suggested looking into a Navy mohair (I found Drapers offers the Super Kid mohair). I know very little about fabrics at this point in my journey so would welcome any suggestions.

Also, should I cross post this anywhere?

Thanks,
Eric

 

[ericgereghty]

1. Great name.
2. Out of curiosity, how did the wife come up with that idea?
3. I love mohair, and a three piece would be awesome. A bit more "showy" than a matte wool like the 4-ply above, but not at all so much that it would look "wrong" in more sober settings
4. Check out the Unfunded Liabilities thread (https://www.styleforum.net/threads/...he-cloth-thread.56404/page-2731#post-11958547). They'll have no shortage of suggestions

 

[comrade]

Hi all,
Long time reader, first time poster in need of advice. I've scheduled an appointment with ISI on the 31st in NYC. First bespoke suit in 20+ years (since my wedding). I stopped wearing suits for work years ago but would like to add some new ones back into the wardrobe for various occasions that are popping up more frequently. Weddings, funerals, graduations, date nights with the wife, etc. I absolutely love the new silhouette that Peter Z. helped create with ISI and hope to create something very similar to the image below (yes, 3 piece). My question is what fabric do people think would be appropriate. I'm looking for a general purpose, 3 season suit that can fill many roles and look great in all of them.

I know from his Insta that Peter did the suit below in Navy Ascot 4-ply. And my wife has suggested looking into a Navy mohair (I found Drapers offers the Super Kid mohair). I know very little about fabrics at this point in my journey so would welcome any suggestions.

Also, should I cross post this anywhere?

Thanks,
Eric

View attachment 2256651

Looking Good, Peter.