The Official Tweed Appreciation Thread

[kylepw]

View attachment 2306423
Here's another tweed with jetted pockets.

Actually not sure if this (Fox Sports Jacketing bunch) counts as tweed, the guys at The Armoury called it city tweed or something like that.

Up close:
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I get the tweed-goes-with-patch-pockets so much that I also get the "reactionary" tweed-with-jetted-pockets. Both great, mainly because tweed, inherently casual, and personal-preference is involved. Just don't start throwing patch pockets on dinner suits, and all is well.

 

[epsilon22]

I get the tweed-goes-with-patch-pockets so much that I also get the "reactionary" tweed-with-jetted-pockets. Both great, mainly because tweed, inherently casual, and personal-preference is involved. Just don't start throwing patch pockets on dinner suits, and all is well.

This model is inspired by Florentine style tailoring, and I see a lot of jetted pockets on the instagram accounts of Corcos, so those sorta inspired me to give it a shot.

 

[thelonius]

This line of thought would preclude the undyed tweeds Ardalanish, Marling and Evans, etc do.

It's a conundrum. But as this is the Official Tweed Appreciation Thread, it seems that a definition of what tweed actually is would be useful. For the undyed tweeds, the various colours are coming from the different natural colours of the sheep. I suppose it can be considered that the definition of the process as described at clan.com still holds, as it is only at the fibre stage that any dying is done (or none at all in the case of undyed tweeds), after washing but before mixing and then spinning.
Aren't there any tweed professionals following?

 

[DorianGreen]

You can also have flap pockets, which look better than jetted in my eyes.

Jetted pockets are the most formal kind, so somewhat misplaced on a tweed jacket, as I see.

But to each his own, as always.

It's saddening that someone, there are a few, always feels the need to jump in to point out what and how somebody else has to say.

 

[epsilon22]

You can also have flap pockets, which look better than jetted in my eyes.

View attachment 2306491

Jetted pockets are the most formal kind, so somewhat misplaced on a tweed jacket, as I see.

But to each his own, as always.

It's saddening that someone, there are a few, always feels the need to jump in to point out what and how somebody else has to say.

I think it may also depend on the style of the jacket? For Ivy style tweed jackets I often see flapped patch pockets, but for Florentine style jackets I don't recall seeing many flapped pockets even on suits.

 

[Jr Mouse]

I prefer patch pockets but this hardly seems worth all the back and forth over. The tweed jacket he ordered with jetted pockets looks nice to my eyes.

 

[DorianGreen]

I think it may also depend on the style of the jacket? For Ivy style tweed jackets I often see flapped patch pockets, but for Florentine style jackets I don't recall seeing many flapped pockets even on suits.

It's clearly a matter of personal preference: I see a traditional tweed jacket (from Britain rather than Florence) with patch, or even flapped patch pockets. It's just my personal preference, anybody is free to choose what he likes better.

Again, very annoying that an innocuous comment of mine has to be misread for stating something not meant by me.

 

[DorianGreen]

I prefer patch pockets but this hardly seems worth all the back and forth over. The tweed jacket he ordered with jetted pockets looks nice to my eyes.

To mine too.

 

[DorianGreen]

Some interesting readings.

https://www.permanentstyle.com/2018/04/a-guide-to-tweed.html

https://www.permanentstyle.com/2023/12/the-guide-to-tweed-bunches.html

 

[DorianGreen]

Vintage tweeds at Campbell's of Beauly.

From Permanent Style:

The tweed you see when you enter the shop - sitting on shelves that somehow are actually 150 years old - is largely estate tweeds, so heavy, bulletproof stuff designed for the Highlands. (See tweed guide here for more on the different types.)

Some of them are exclusive to Campbell’s, but many are not. “We do small pieces with Lovat, and I go to every archive sale to get old bolts,” says John, “but we’re not big enough to buy full exclusive pieces.”

I found most of the colours and patterns too rural for me (not surprising, given they’re not aimed at a city-dweller like me) but I did have a jacket made out of Saxony tweed 82053, which proved to be very nice. That’s it pictured below, made by The Anthology.

John is also adding more shetlands - softer, lighter tweeds - to the range. “Locally, people want the estate tweeds but online it’s different,” he says. “There they’re more likely to want things for making with their tailor in London or New York.”

 

[epsilon22]

I think the shift makes sense considering the prevalence of indoor heating. My 430g "city tweed" is already approaching the limits of what I could possibly wear in my office, I'm thinking of going lighter for subsequent pieces (WBill's 390g Shetland Tweed, or H&S' 340g Sherry Tweed). I get the appeal of heavier clothes that drape better, but it's not very practical for my use case, I don't want to have to take off my jacket all the time.

 

[DorianGreen]

Not flamboyant and showy, rather understated, but with a nice character, a tweed jacket made by the Anthology for Simon Crompton in a Campbell's of Beauly cloth, the Saxony 82053.

 

[Concordia]

Can those all be found on their website, or do you have to poke around the shelves yourself to get the full range?

 

[DorianGreen]

Can those all be found on their website, or do you have to poke around the shelves yourself to get the full range?

Don't know exactly, but you find many on the website.

https://www.campbellsofbeauly.com/product-category/tweed/

I love this one, for example.

 

[JSP89]

Lovat tweed in a sportcoat