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SWD Discussion Thread for Tailoring

OccultaVexillum

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Yeah I’m not great at articulating this kind of stuff with tailoring.
That fabric is great though.
I suppose I want a trad fabric like that but a very non trad cut. Something that leans Lemaire, Dries, Haider.
 

hendrix

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Uhhh not really like that Studio Nicholson one (i think it's madras?). I actually really dislike the cut on their blazer.

Tweed/Cashmere is probably a better description, and maybe "unstrcutred" is the wrong term, lightly padded shoulders wouldn't be bad.
It's hard to find anything like what I am after so it's hard to post examples.

This kind of cut:
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loose, a bit elongated.

Basically every women's brand has something like this but of course menswear is 10 years behind
 

kjb

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@OccultaVexillum not the right fabric, maybe need to wait for f/w but for the price range you stated would some like this Todd synder DB work?

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OccultaVexillum

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Basically every women's brand has something like this but of course menswear is 10 years behind

100%
The amount of women I see with the ideal
Blazer is infuriating. I go in to shops with my wife and it’s like even the dumbest m, cheapest shops have a couple of viable options.

@OccultaVexillum not the right fabric, maybe need to wait for f/w but for the price range you stated would some like this Todd synder DB work?

View attachment 1998579

View attachment 1998581


This looks pretty good on the model, 6 button db is it ideal but that’s nitpicking
 

clee1982

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Hell yes, orphan jackets the next frontier

not my size, and I don't think they're too deco/dandy to play, but if someone can do it here are some cheap phineas cole orphan jacket



now this is my size and totally wearable (just not very, and it would be a cat hair maget) but need a lot cheaper

 

clee1982

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by the way, 70s, or big fit aside, the "technical" swd tailoring seem all died down, can we have some stuff more like Abasi Rosborough arc jacket type of thing as well?
 

kindofyoung

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The amount of women I see with the ideal
Blazer is infuriating. I go in to shops with my wife and it’s like even the dumbest m, cheapest shops have a couple of viable options.

But then also conversely, while finding something loose and relaxed is very easy, it's proving near impossible (here in Sweden atleast) to find something akin to a more classic structured blazer or suit for women in smaller sizes, even with the more expensive brands. All the more annoying for my girlfriend, when meanwhile I thrift another vintage suit or jacket every other month or so for 10$-30$ :laugh:


(sure there's stuff like Ralph Lauren and Celine etc in a few flagship stores in Stockholm, but that's not in either of ours budget lol)
 

clee1982

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How structure are we talking about, like blade runner big flat strong shoulder woman suit?

If not that extreme I would have thought something even like j crew would have a will defined shoulder line for average women suit
 

clee1982

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I like what Factor's is doing right now with their tailoring

What’s their typical look, I see their IG even has CM proper stuff on custom else I guess longer jacket, relaxed body but shoulder still probably still on point
 

accordion

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Attending the wedding in a few days, just had a tailor let out the jacket sleeves and pant waist/thighs, also hemmed/tapered the pants a little. They still feel too tight, do they look too tight? The jacket sleeves also don't drape naturally cuz of the extra fabric but too late to make changes now. Should I wear the print collared shirt underneath or go with one of the tshirt? Thanks
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How important is full vs half canvas to you for heavier sport jackets?

  • Definitely full canvas only

    Votes: 97 36.9%
  • Half canvas is fine

    Votes: 94 35.7%
  • Really don't care

    Votes: 32 12.2%
  • Depends on fabric

    Votes: 44 16.7%
  • Depends on price

    Votes: 40 15.2%

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