SPIER & MACKAY - Official Affiliate Thread

[classicoutfits]

I just bought my first suit from S&M. The top of the sleeves seem odd--they have a wrinkling that I am not used to in a suit. Is this typical? Apologies if I'm just uneducated about how they are supposed to look.

I also think I may need to size down (the sleeves will at a minimum have to be shortened). I'm open to feedback on that point as well.

hi, can you share what size and cut this is? I like my sport coats and suits to fit classic (not slim) but this looks to me need a size down.

 

[Mr October]

hi, can you share what size and cut this is? I like my sport coats and suits to fit classic (not slim) but this looks to me need a size down.

It's size 46 with the contemporary fit. I'm with you: I like a more classic fit but this seems to go too far.

 

[tmckay2]

I'm 5' 10". I was planning to get it tailored a bit but wanted to first get as close as possible to reduce tailoring expenses.

How does the bottom of the coat look? To my untrained eye, it looks like it could do with some shortening too.

Huh, that's a little odd for the sleeves to be that long then. I'm 5'9 and usually wear a 38 regular and they're just a tad long for my shirt sleeves to show

 

[Viatu]

I'm 5' 10". I was planning to get it tailored a bit but wanted to first get as close as possible to reduce tailoring expenses.

How does the bottom of the coat look? To my untrained eye, it looks like it could do with some shortening too.

I think the length of the jacket looks fine. Shortening the sleeves and hemming the trousers aren't substantial alterations.

 

[Viatu]

It is a significant alteration to shorten the length of the jacket and only about a 1 cm or so should be cut or as I'm told you risk destroying the balance of the jacket. I'd only trust that alteration to someone I truly trust.

 

[tmckay2]

I think the length of the jacket looks fine. Shortening the sleeves and hemming the trousers aren't substantial alterations.

Agred thwt i think the length of the jacket is probably ok and the sleeves just make it look longer. I feel like maybe those sleeves are a little out of spec in terms of length but doesn't really matter. If you have to get them shortened an extra inch or two is basically the same cost.

 

[clee1982]

Personally I'm ok to chop jacket length as long as it's <1in (so 2.54cm), condition on
1. not a patch pocket
2. not having any horizontal line (i.e. windowpane)

 

[KlarkKent]

To me the shoulders don't fit very well in addition to the sleeves being too long. I'd try a slim or size down if nothing else than for the sake of comparison.

 

[Mr October]

Huh, that's a little odd for the sleeves to be that long then. I'm 5'9 and usually wear a 38 regular and they're just a tad long for my shirt sleeves to show

I have weirdly short arms (and legs) for my size. A lot of my height is in my torso. It makes finding OTR suits rather difficult

 

[ColdEyedPugilist]

Just following up on this. Here is a side-by-side of a FW19 38R contemporary sports coat (right) next to this FW24 38S (left). While the 2019 is a little longer, it is much fuller.

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Both are quite tight in the tush. I think this is genetics and I weight train regularly.


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Compare this bespoke jacket, which has a much higher vent.


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The block has definitely been modified this season. Compared to my 2024 A/W neo-cut jackets, my 2023 jackets and my 2024 S/S jackets are slightly shorter, fuller in the chest, and more relaxed in the waist. And before any potential gas-lighting attempts are made, I have enough of both models to know it’s not my imagination.

 

[St1X]

It’s called spalla camicia, which basically means shirt shoulder. A larger sleeve is stuffed into a smaller sleeve head, and the excess is gathered at the top. It’s supposed to give better range of motion.

Small correction - SC is just a way of attaching a sleeve to the body. It has nothing to do with the size of the sleeve head. This is called a shirred shoulder (I don't know the Italian term for it) and SC shoulders can be made without any shirring.

 

[BlueSteel]

It's size 46 with the contemporary fit. I'm with you: I like a more classic fit but this seems to go too far.

How do the shoulders seem to you? Just from the pics they look too big...like you are not filling them.

But your gut/belly is straining the 46 Contemp by the looks of the pics.

So I cannot understand the advice people are giving you to size down or take a slim fit. These are very unlikely to work for you. Slim fit is the worst advice of all for you.

Maybe...just maybe...you could take a 44R Contemp and then let out the sides as much as possible to accomodate your midsection. By going to a 44 that might allow your shoulders to fill the jacket more (as the pics seem to indicate that is not happening). But I'm not sure that would work in terms of how it would look/fit overall when let out.

Again, based on limited info from a few snapshots, I'd say you need MTM - I don't think S&M's off the peg pattern works very well for you.

(BTW, the sleeves are nothing significant - any good tailor will fix those perfectly and also compensate for your substantially dropped shoulder - a problem I share also. I think the jacket length is perfect, but if you think it is a touch long, the 44 - instead of 46 - should resolve that too.)

 

[spacenegroes]

Hi, wondering what the deal is with almost every S&M suit jacket/sport coat being 1/4 butterfly-lined now? I can understand it for summer jackets, but even the autumn ones are lined like this, and even the conservative navy suit jackets are 1/4 lined, which makes it a no-go for me. What's the deal?

Secondly, small nitpick, but anyone else really dislike this new model they're using? He appears to have pretty wide hips, and should really not be buying off the rack, at least with the Neo cut:

Doesn't really do much to sell the merchandise.

 

[St1X]

Hi, wondering what the deal is with almost every S&M suit jacket/sport coat being 1/4 butterfly-lined now? I can understand it for summer jackets, but even the autumn ones are lined like this, and even the conservative navy suit jackets are 1/4 lined, which makes it a no-go for me. What's the deal?

Secondly, small nitpick, but anyone else really dislike this new model they're using? He appears to have pretty wide hips, and should really not be buying off the rack, at least with the Neo cut:

Doesn't really do much to sell the merchandise.

Quarter lining is a more advanced way of finishing a jacket and is always better for customers. It requires a higher degree of finishing fabric edges in the seams. Fully lined jackets usually leave them unfinished, with fabric fraying there. So you don't have as much seam allowance if you need to let the garment out in the future. It's a way to cut costs

 

[clee1982]

what's the problem with 1/4 lining on conservative navy business suit, like are you worry about the bottom would be transparent ish looking from behind?