SPIER & MACKAY - Official Affiliate Thread

[ryewo[i dmfsOZI490w]

ah, very good, thanks
I'm not sure open quarters make sense for a cold weather jacket. But who knows.

I don’t know if it makes that much of a difference. By the time it starts to get really cold, you’d probably want a topcoat over your jacket anyway. At least that’s the way I look at it.

The only kind of jacket that could probably keep you warm enough when it starts to get cold is really thick tweeds, like Harris Tweed, but they’d probably keep you uncomfortable when you’re inside anyway.

 

[nqtri]

Sucks to have to return a fine garment for fit issues. I sympathize, I just did the same. Returned a lovely camel topcoat because it was too tailored to fit over some of my not-so-tailored tweed SCs. I is a beautiful garment in its own right, and I need a topcoat. But Fit is King!

Wanted to ask op or the group about the "open quarters." What does that mean? And also, would you consider the VBC a cold weather weight? Or is it more an all seasons garment? I need a grey SC in a cold weather weight. Would this work?

And finally, if you get the grey moon tweed jacket, would you expect a different fit? Are the moons a more generous fit than the VBCs? I figured that a 36S (or in my case, 44L) in the VBC would fit the same as a 36S in the Moon

I expect and hope so. I have 2 other SCs from S&M: a herringbone and a moleskin SCs. Both fit me better than the Neapolitan one. The problem I have with the back is there sometimes but less severe. But still the decision to exchange is more than just the fit because it can be altered, I just click with the lapel and the quarters from the other cut more. I think the quarters of the moon tweed is still considered open but it opens at a lower point than the houndstooth jacket.

 

[Patrick R]

The issues you’re having look very similar to those I posted a few days prior. Looked pretty clean from the front, but tight and bunches in the back. Sadly, I didn’t get much feedback from the group on my pics though...

Despite a very clean fit in the front, I have pretty substantial fit issues with the back of my VBC houndstooth jacket too. But I’m holding judgment until I see what my alterations tailor can do.

 

[FlyingHorker]

Open quarters is just a styling preference. Open or closed, unless you have an overcoat it's not going to protect you from the elements. That's what topcoats/overcoats are for.

Even in the article from PTO, the two pics, the open quarter jacket just looks so much more polished than the closed quarter jacket. Closed quarters, for some reason I associate with outdated department store brands.

I think if you're going to go with closed quarters, the jacket needs to be shorter than the 'traditional' length. If going with wide open quarters, then you need a longer jacket length, shorter tie, and long rise trousers. All to preserve a balanced look. However, this isn't exactly what is currently in fashion, and isn't that easy to find IMO.

Even in the open quarter picture, the guy's tie looks too long for his overall look, and the rise may be too low as well.

Ethan Wong demonstrates what I'm talking about quite well.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BbDN5KVlxIq/?hl=en&taken-by=ethanmwong
https://www.instagram.com/p/BaKNktRFQbE/?hl=en&taken-by=ethanmwong

 

[jtorres94]

Details from a S&M made-to-measure suit trouser I received today. Two pleats, reversed. Hidden coin pocket.

View attachment 889165

Would love to see the full suit. Man S&M MTM looks great!

 

[CBrown85]

Canada Post just delivered (on a Sunday) my order of shirts. They fit better than I expect for an ORT at that price point. Were I to go M2M, I'd probably keep everything but sleeve length, width, and cuff tightness the same.

 

[Ezio]

Sorry picture is terrible. I’ll try to take a better one when I can. View attachment 888556

Looks good!

 

[Ezio]

When it comes to jacket length, what is appropriate and what is too short/long? I've read that the jacket length should come down to your first knuckles, is that generally correct? How do you guys figure out the best button stance? Is it ideally at the navel or above it? Was trying on the charcoal peak earlier on, and it looks great, but I'm wondering if I am looking "balanced" (sorry, forgot pics).

Open quarters is just a styling preference. Open or closed, unless you have an overcoat it's not going to protect you from the elements. That's what topcoats/overcoats are for.

Even in the article from PTO, the two pics, the open quarter jacket just looks so much more polished than the closed quarter jacket. Closed quarters, for some reason I associate with outdated department store brands.

Savage.

Btw, when will the Spring collection be previewed?

 

[James1051]

When it comes to jacket length, what is appropriate and what is too short/long? I've read that the jacket length should come down to your first knuckles, is that generally correct?

If that is so, how is it that so many guys are wearing jackets that don't even cover their butts? Are their arms that short?

 

[Patrick R]

When it comes to jacket length, what is appropriate and what is too short/long?

A man's jacket should cover his butt. The knuckle guideline is simply a proxy. Current trends have the jacket length shortening. I think a shorter jacket can look nice, but I don't think there is a great margin for error. If you ask me, the more casual the jacket, the shorter it can be and still look right, but a classic, well-proportioned suit jacket will always cover the butt.

 

[Patrick R]

If that is so, how is it that so many guys are wearing jackets that don't even cover their butts? Are their arms that short?

They are simply buying what they are being sold.

 

[induere_to]

Another detailed picture of some of the options I went with going custom with S&M: Milanese buttonhole, 4.25 inch peak lapel. And the fabric—is it brown, is it purple, navy, charcoal, burgundy? What I can tell you is that it’s Guabello...

 

[JustinW]

Jacket should cover the butt, bottom button should align with the belt.

 

[CBrown85]

That fabric would look great with a lot of different shirt/tie combos

 

[JustinW]

Btw, when will the Spring collection be previewed?

I think we’re all dying to see the new cotton sprtscoats.