Scent/Fragrance of the Day thread

[dieworkwear]

For those who missed it, the podcast series Articles of Interest released an episode yesterday on perfumes. I really enjoyed it.

Perfume: Articles of Interest #9 - 99% Invisible

The world of high-end perfume is surprisingly lucrative, considering that scent is often the most ignored of our senses. But one can’t judge a scent solely by the brand and shape of the bottle. With the right amount of attention, perfume can be a key to a whole olfactory world. Articles of...

99percentinvisible.org

 

[losrockets]

La Curie is closing out her 15ml bottles, they're selling for $30, a great value for handcrafted indie scents. Picked up a pair!

 

[patrickBOOTH]

La Curie is closing out her 15ml bottles, they're selling for $30, a great value for handcrafted indie scents. Picked up a pair!

Derviche and Incendo are incredible

 

[patrickBOOTH]

I haven't revisited my two samples of Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier in a while because I've been so underwhelmed by them, but I chose to wear Route du Vetiver.

Yep, still don't like it. It's really bland and forgettable. It comes across as this really interesting take of vetiver with a fruity touch, but it doesn't register like that with my nose.

What I get is a dill pickle brine scent. It's really salty and not much else. I mean, to be fair, I still get the vetiver and a mellow, yet somewhat bright grassy accord, but they're so tame compared to the annoying saltiness that lasts from start to finish.

I know it's just a small sample, but it's just one of those really disappointing experiences that leaves you so bitter such that you're completely turned off of the brand. Same with Santal Noble. They read well on paper, but they're unworthy when smelled.

I'll put on something more exciting tomorrow. I can see myself revisiting them, but I doubt I'll change my mind.

I smelled at few at Cedes. Admittedly I wasn't as into fragrance as I am now, but I was underwhelmed by Maitre as well.

 

[patrickBOOTH]

I need to pick up some of his books he’s my favorite perfumer and I still have a bunch of Roudnitska creations to smell.

Ive started sampling Santa Maria Novella. Most enjoyed were Opoponax and Potpourri (oddly). Also got a sample of Copal Azur by Aedes de Venustas. Smells like a modern designer perfume but still quite enjoyable. I think it might be the cardamom? Up next are a heap of Les Bains Guerbois and Cire Trudon samples. Anyone tried anything from the later?

My gf blind bought Peau d'espagne. We both do not like it. There was a gushing article about it recently on fragrantica calling it a civet bomb and dirty and such, which is my jam, but we both found it to open citrusy and then just get unbearably sour in a bad way. Sent it right back.

 

[MaiLam]

@patrickBOOTH you must be on a watchlist by now with the amount of bottled chemicals going in and out of your residence

 

[patrickBOOTH]

Today I am wearing a sample of Neandertal Light. I was curious about it so I got the dark and light samples. It is very unique, imo. My gf hates it as it has some sort of ambroxan that I can't smell, that she has a strong negative reaction to. I find the Light to have a dry leaves and fresh cut grass smell and also something cool and stark (maybe the ambroxan?). I would never buy this, but I have to say it is unique. The dark, I find less interesting. It is woody, piney, but also has that coolness that makes it veer into the typical designer "woody" fragrance territory.

 

[patrickBOOTH]

@patrickBOOTH you must be on a watchlist by now with the amount of bottled chemicals going in and out of your residence

Lol, among other things... Good thing me and the lady don't live under the same roof because the FBI would have long ago started intercepting packages. Then again I still have gotten an eBay purchase of Le Nuit...

 

[patrickBOOTH]

I also got samples of Eris fragrances. The house was started by this woman here in NYC. She wrote a book about vintage fragrances and animalics and such. She has some famous noses develop this line in a vintage style. I had the limited edition on yesterday. At first sniff I liked it and got a lot of ambergris, however there was a chocolate note in there that was coming through that nauseated me. I hate chocolate notes in fragrances. I wouldn't call this a gourmand, but to me is like a beginner animalic for gourmand lovers.

The only two that I really did like was Ma Bete, which I think is the winner of the bunch even if it smells too similarly to Bal A Versailles, and Night Flower, which is almost too vanilla for me.

 

[Aquafortis]

Just discovered the Black Narcissus blog by Neil Chapman. Looks like great writing. He's also the author of the book, "Perfume: In Search of Your Signature Scent" released last year.

 

[jdp234]

Layered vintage Mitsouko extrait with current EdP today, which came out very nicely; the top of the extrait is a little faded so it came together smelling basically like the old Mitzy Parfum d'Toilette (or at least how I remember the PdT smelling when I had a 2ml 10 years ago or so!)

 

[losrockets]

Derviche and Incendo are incredible

I've owned Incendo for a couple years and added a sample of Dervish to my order because the notes seem right up my alley. Would have blind-bought a 15ml bottle were it available.

 

[rach2jlc]

Layered vintage Mitsouko extrait with current EdP today, which came out very nicely; the top of the extrait is a little faded so it came together smelling basically like the old Mitzy Parfum d'Toilette (or at least how I remember the PdT smelling when I had a 2ml 10 years ago or so!)

Lovely. The current formulation of Mitsouko is not bad; it definitely lost some of the crispness of the original chypre formulation, but it's still very nice. I think layering the two would be a lovely experience.

I'll see you in Guerlain-land and do Chamade EdT today in the current formulation.

 

[patrickBOOTH]

To me the old Mitsouko smells dirtier, but I think it could be just that the top notes have burned off in the bottle over the years. I find the middle and dry down to be darn close.

 

[jdp234]

I find that the middle and drydown of the vintage Mitsouko are richer (for lack of a better word) and last a good deal longer; there's some interview where Thierry Wasser said he discovered, while working with the new low-atranol oakmoss, that the stuff that got fractionated out was important as a fixative and had to find workarounds. But I'm with you both, it's still a very good scent in the current production and given the restrictions he was working under it is impressive.

Wearing allegedly-vintage Van Cleef & Arpels PH today; I thought I had tracked down a decant seller who was using one of the bottles with a "good" formulation but this mostly smells like expensive soap and I am not getting the "powerhouse leather" character people refer to. It smells good, not a bad scent by any means, but not a knockout. (Could be this is the good stuff and I just don't smell it how others do, of course.)