Saint Laurent Paris - Official Thread.

[thorns]

Hedi designed grosgrain pull tabs that are usually hidden. It seems like they purposefully brought it out for the first pic. If you're anal about the shape, I would trace out the outline of each boot, so that you can compare how it curves.

 

[volchok]

refer yourself

The code doesn't work for saint laurent items it seems.

 

[Sadly Not Yohji Yamamoto]

If you guys are really interested to educating yourselves about leather quality, styleforum has a nice thread on it: https://www.styleforum.net/threads/leather-quality-and-properties.354137/

I'm too familiar with heritage brands, but I want to say their leather tends to be thicker and sturdier, when comparing dressy boots and shoes (especially those based in The UK). However, I really like how comfortable Saint Laurent footwear feels out of the box.

Awesome thread. Thanks for that and the comparative info.

The leather looks and feels about the same as other fashion brands, such as Balenciaga and even Jil Sander in my experience.

It's a step below leather fanatics such as Hermes and Dior.

That's really interesting to me. Could you speak to what it is that Hermes and Dior does differently that makes it even better? Their sourcing, their tanning, etc?

I've been looking at Dior shoes recenly and while I found the leather on their shoes more attractive than the SLPs, as I said before, knowing too little of leather, I didn't know if it was only a personal aesthetic preference or also an objective judgement.

Thanks.

 

[SirGrotius]

As a quick caveat, I've been fed quite a bit of marketing so I'm unsure how much of this is legit versus pure fluff. Like most things, it's probably a bit of both!

Anyway, Dior and Hermes claim to have more control of their sourcing, and have relationships which they claim are exclusive and more prestigious. It's difficult for me to describe, the but the eye test seems to display a better quality, slightly thicker, more buttery (less dry?) leather versus some other brands.

I think Hermes and Dior trumpet more that they use a single piece of leather for some of their footwear, versus having more seams. There's also at least a 25% - 50% price increase with the aforementioned brands, so not always fair to compare.

 

[Sadly Not Yohji Yamamoto]

Thanks for the insight.

Anyway, Dior and Hermes claim to have more control of their sourcing, and have relationships which they claim are exclusive and more prestigious. It's difficult for me to describe, the but the eye test seems to display a better quality, slightly thicker, more buttery (less dry?) leather versus some other brands.

I did actually notice every one of those superior traits you mentioned.

I think Hermes and Dior trumpet more that they use a single piece of leather for some of their footwear, versus having more seams. There's also at least a 25% - 50% price increase with the aforementioned brands, so not always fair to compare.

What are the benefits of less seams? Sturdier construction?

 

[Roygbivuxg]

Less seams = fewer pieces of leather = harder to source. As animal hide, leather will naturally have changes in grain, scarring, and discoloration (less important), all of which will become harder to avoid the larger the piece of hide you require. This is why one-piece dress shoes cost so much more than regular derbies despite having fewer stitches ("labor"). Can't comment on SLP footwear but from what I've handled I agree dior leather is a cut above other luxury brands in the same price bracket for the already mentioned properties. It goes without saying that hermes can't really be compared to the others--i mean a plain bifold is $1400 :/ Brand name is obviously a factor but they've always been a leather company whereas the others are fashion brands.

 

[therattler]

leather guys: am i right in thinking that better quality leather creases differently? better leather results in straighter creases (cordovan). theres a way to test just by pressing down and seeing more creases or something. i remember an old cowboy boot maker telling me about this. on that basis SLP leather is good but not great and I've seen significant variation throughout my boots.

 

[Sadly Not Yohji Yamamoto]

Less seams = fewer pieces of leather = harder to source. As animal hide, leather will naturally have changes in grain, scarring, and discoloration (less important), all of which will become harder to avoid the larger the piece of hide you require.

Wonderful info.

So as it's easier to avoid imperfections with smaller pieces, what is the reason for using less pieces? Aesthetic, sturdier construction, etc.?

 

[Roygbivuxg]

I'm no expert but I think all of those reasons are valid. Aesthetics are definitely the major selling point. Fewer stitches give a sleeker more polished appearance which is what people look for in formal wear--the category of footwear that wholecuts traditionally belong to. I think a well-sourced hide would provide sturdy construction, but "sturdiness" of a shoe may come down to other properties such as the lining material and the strain put on the leather when lasting the shoe, so ultimately a wholecut may or may not be more durable than a pieced leather shoe. Again, the thickness and uniformity of thickness of the original hide plays a big role in this, and drives up cost by supposedly creating more leather "wastage" per shoe. At the end of the day wholecut construction is still considered a symbol of luxury and people will buy for the status alone. One-piece boots and non-traditional oxfords made this way are rare and outside of traditional footwear brands, only made by the likes of A1923 and similar designers afaik.

 

[Sadly Not Yohji Yamamoto]

I love learning about this. Thanks again!

 

[Sym]

Are all SLP boots cemented or just the ones recently posted?

 

[PattyC]

Are all SLP boots cemented or just the ones recently posted?

ironically FW13 Wyatts are cemented

 

[thorns]

Not going to lie, the hype of it being wholecut and Hedi wearing this on the runway was the reason I got the classique chelsea:

I think most footwear before fw14 were cemented, besides the moto and combat boots which were blake-stitched

 

[JustDoingMyThing]

Going to pull the trigger on the black leather jodphurs.

Quick question:

First pic is from Farfetch, second from End and third from Mr. Porter. Are these the same exact iteration? Sometimes I think I see small differences but maybe I'm going crazy. I don't see a pull tab in the second and third photo, is it just tucked in inside the boot or they're different iterations? Also, the change in shape that seems to have happened with the chelseas, did the same thing happen with this season's jodhpurs?

Jodhpurs owners, speak up.

mine look like the top two photos. Maybe they just assumed that they are same, even tho the shape of the boot isn't exactly the same.
Mine are from fw15

 

[Ranger44]

They have changed almost every past season. Most noticeably from fw14 iteration comparing to now.

Most likely ssense is most recent fw17
Fw14 had higher buckle placement. Ss16 had a lower than usual Buckle and silhouette changed slightly.

Ss14



SS16



Fw16/SS17

Fw17