** Quintessential Crockett & Jones Thread ** (reviews, quality, etc...)

[Satmoche]

Thanks for the reply. My confusion was alleviated with a visit to C&J's website, which advise that some of the loafer lasts (which they characterize as "shorter") are to be sized down by only 1/2, not a full size, from UK to US. This includes the 376.

I also picked up the Connaught 2, which fits excellent (cross lacing temporary). This size difference from last to last is why I was on the fence. But the 9.5UK Harvard 2 is definitely too short.

View attachment 2309621

Interestingly enough, C&J claims that the 379 is slightly shorter, but my toes fit right where they should (with space) compared to the 376.

I am quite tempted to get the exact same Connaught but the sales associate I talked to told me that the suede is 'not the same' as other suedes shoes. Do they have higher grade suede parts that they use for some models within the bench grade collection?

 

[alazdi]

Just received my Harvard 2 in the Dark Brown suede and I'm wondering how those of you with high insteps found the stretching in the suede.

View attachment 2309325

My other (lesser brand) suede loafers eventually stretched out quite a bit. As a high instep fellow, loafers are never amazingly comfortable from the get-go. Always tight across the instep, but the size (9.5E UK) is my usual one (10.5D US) and fits well elsewhere.

No real heel slip at all, but the 376 has a narrowed heel cup compared to the 314, and a size bigger would stretch too much, I fear. My current loafers are almost falling off after years of wear.

Mine were tight across the instep when new. I'm not sure if I have a high instep comparatively, but high enough that that was my main issue with these loafers specifically. In particular, the leather piece under the tongue didn't feel good against the top of my foot, especially later in the day. Also a bit too snug on my outside toes. After wear and walking in them a bunch, they stretched out nicely. Now they are very comfortable and well conformed to my feet, and I'm glad to wear them on days when I'll walk 6+ miles.

There is a judgment call to make based on how they feel now. If they are more tight than snug, they might not stretch enough for you. But they definitely stretch more than lined shoes would, and if they are more snug than tight, they will probably end up how you want them.

 

[DorianGreen]

Hi @Menninki , im not concerned about tongue slip personally as the tongue has never bothered me when wearing boots. Ofcourse, in my boots that have a half bellows tongue, the wearing experience is a far better one.

I was asking people here as i wanted views and to hear about people's experience of half vs full bellows tongue. So that i can propose one or the other in a future GMTO. The fact that C&J charge £50+ to add a half bellows tongue is a bit opportunistic since its a fairly standard feature found (e.g., in Trickers and Cheaney boots).

But in terms of standard production, the fact that C&J chooses to avoid this feature and stick to a loose flappy tongue in their boots, must have some reasoning otlr wisdom behind it.

I would always prefer a full bellows tongue, half bellows looks a bit odd and unfinished. Another option (certainly cheaper) is a partly (one-sided) stitched tongue.

 

[YellowHandUp]

I am quite tempted to get the exact same Connaught but the sales associate I talked to told me that the suede is 'not the same' as other suedes shoes. Do they have higher grade suede parts that they use for some models within the bench grade collection?

They use suede and calf suede. As far as I can tell suede is split from the top-grain (ie they get two types of leather from one hide). Calf suede retains the top grain, making it more expensive but stronger.

 

[DorianGreen]

They use suede and calf suede. As far as I can tell suede is split from the top-grain (ie they get two types of leather from one hide). Calf suede retains the top grain, making it more expensive but stronger.

Very interesting. Do you know whether calf suede is always used, or possibly other kinds (from other animals) too?

 

[Satmoche]

They use suede and calf suede. As far as I can tell suede is split from the top-grain (ie they get two types of leather from one hide). Calf suede retains the top grain, making it more expensive but stronger.

Thank you. It is all clear now.
I wonder if this was always the case, as in before Hermes owned most of the leather tanneries.

 

[bemk]

My Tuesday is brown & green.

- Crockett & Jones Coniston, Dark Brown Scotch Grain -

 

[Rhodia]

I am quite tempted to get the exact same Connaught but the sales associate I talked to told me that the suede is 'not the same' as other suedes shoes. Do they have higher grade suede parts that they use for some models within the bench grade collection?

I wondered about this as well, and yes, there are different suedes used, hence the price. This model is $630USD, while the Westfield is $790USD.

The Connaught is part of their "main suede range," while they describe the Westfield (and others, such as the Cavendish) as "European calf suede."

I'm not a suede expert, nor a C&J one, but to my eye the suede on the Connaught is still excellent. Someone else one here may be able to offer a more in-depth opinion.

I've been looking for a plain suede cap-toe oxford, so this fit the bill for now. Definitely interested in the Westfield as well, perhaps for Spring.

EDIT: Thanks @YellowHandUp for the info.

 

[Rhodia]

Mine were tight across the instep when new. I'm not sure if I have a high instep comparatively, but high enough that that was my main issue with these loafers specifically. In particular, the leather piece under the tongue didn't feel good against the top of my foot, especially later in the day. Also a bit too snug on my outside toes. After wear and walking in them a bunch, they stretched out nicely. Now they are very comfortable and well conformed to my feet, and I'm glad to wear them on days when I'll walk 6+ miles.

There is a judgment call to make based on how they feel now. If they are more tight than snug, they might not stretch enough for you. But they definitely stretch more than lined shoes would, and if they are more snug than tight, they will probably end up how you want them.

Thank you! I went ahead and ordered the 10UK. Will report back on any differences half a size makes.

 

[Humpty_Dumpty_Rises]

325ing

 

[aquatherm]

My received the Chepstow 4 arrived today from the sale collection and to be honest I'm so sure about these. Thoughts?

 

[Satmoche]

I wondered about this as well, and yes, there are different suedes used, hence the price. This model is $630USD, while the Westfield is $790USD.

The Connaught is part of their "main suede range," while they describe the Westfield (and others, such as the Cavendish) as "European calf suede."

I'm not a suede expert, nor a C&J one, but to my eye the suede on the Connaught is still excellent. Someone else one here may be able to offer a more in-depth opinion.

I've been looking for a plain suede cap-toe oxford, so this fit the bill for now. Definitely interested in the Westfield as well, perhaps for Spring.

EDIT: Thanks @YellowHandUp for the info.

Let me top up your question with another, does the main suede range really make a difference, in the long run, compared to the European calf suede?
When I asked the sales associate about provenance, he did not seem to have a clue.

C&J's prices have increased enough for me to consider Enzo Bonafe now.

 

[DorianGreen]

My received the Chepstow 4 arrived today from the sale collection and to be honest I'm so sure about these. Thoughts?

They look nice to me. Rough-out Suede and Commando Sole?

 

[aquatherm]

They look nice to me. Rough-out Suede and Commando Sole?

Yeah. I felt they would be difficult to pair with and also the sole was stiffer and heavier than expected, though it's not a deal breaker.

I also tried these on when I visited the store. I still want an RO or leather boot as I have neither in my collection. I'm gutted I missed out the Radnor in Rust Scotch Grain as that last works for my slightly high instep on one foot

 

[Rhodia]

Let me top up your question with another, does the main suede range really make a difference, in the long run, compared to the European calf suede?
When I asked the sales associate about provenance, he did not seem to have a clue.

C&J's prices have increased enough for me to consider Enzo Bonafe now.

I'd add that the Harvard 2's Repello suede is also part of their "main suede range" and I know that other C&J thread posters on here have praised the Harvard and Boston suede.

There is some more info here: https://us.crockettandjones.com/blo...sHq9VJ34qllwH3Kj-utm3T7QZ5rvogUqNnUR9ODp5sjSZ

Looking around the site more, it seems Calf Suede is just a finer grade and from a younger hid (hence a finer nap and softer overall quality than a leather that comes from an older animal).

Material Guide

Material GUIDE At Crockett & Jones we place great importance on the sourcing of the most expensive element to our high quality English footwear – Leather. A MATERIAL WORLD ‘Leather’ is a vast topic, one that Crockett & Jones takes very seriously indeed. In our opinion, you can only produce high...

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