Pick any Shirtmaker in the world to make your shirts.

[william]

Originally Posted by Will

The important choices you can make are your tailor and your cordwainer IMHO. Shirts are much simpler to make and there are dozens of roughly comparable choices. The long established makers can have an advantage in that they may have bolts of out of production cloth that can't be made any longer because the machines have been scrapped. But the make doesn't vary all that much to my eyes.

I only have experience with three shirt makers but I have to say from what I've seen so far, I totally agree with you. I would no doubt enjoy a $600 shirt from A. Kabbaz. Only problem is once it was covered up with a suit jacket and tie I think it would be pretty hard to distinguish it from my $130 local MTM.

 

[nighttrain7404]

http://www.seymoursfashions.com/

They're rated the best in this area...

 

[RJman]

Originally Posted by Chris "Italia"

I have seen Charvet shirts in New York City; they do indeed make a very fine shirt.

I do know that the bespoke lines are outstanding, since they only use the top Italian fabric mills in the world.

Bonfanti, Riva, Alumno.


LabelKing: Lauwers has dropped off the radar. If you can find him, good for you.

Charvet uses a variety of cottons from Italy, Switzerland and perhaps England -- I've seen bolts labelled David and John Anderson there, for one.

Cloth selection is not the only factor in the quality of bespoke. That said, I've been happy with my Charvet shirts; I'm happy with the shirt Courtot made for me although their cloth selection is the exact opposite of Charvet's: basic and limited, with the possibility of ordering other cloths such the magnificent Alumo cotton-cashmere twill. Charvet's fabric room is indeed an inducement to pay twice the price for cloths you'd likely find nowhere else. However, fit and construction are important in bespoke.

 

[Millerp]

Anto Distinctive Shirtmakers
Beverly Hills

 

[Shirtmaven]

perhaps England -- I've seen bolts labelled David and John Anderson there, for one.
is produced in Italy by albini.

 

[RJman]

Originally Posted by Shirtmaven

perhaps England -- I've seen bolts labelled David and John Anderson there, for one.
is produced in Italy by albini.
Dammit. I knew that.

These threads are tiring me out.

 

[Cantabrigian]

Originally Posted by Will

The important choices you can make are your tailor and your cordwainer IMHO. Shirts are much simpler to make and there are dozens of roughly comparable choices. The long established makers can have an advantage in that they may have bolts of out of production cloth that can't be made any longer because the machines have been scrapped. But the make doesn't vary all that much to my eyes.

While I would agree that tailors vary more widely in what they produce (no experience so I don't know about shoemakers) it should be noted that - if you're inclined to notice that sort of thing and somewhat discriminating - there are pretty obvious differences among shirtmakers in terms of quality of construction. With fit, the range is even wider.

My fantasy shirtmaker, would likely be Charvet based on what I have seen from them MTM.

Realistically, probably Geneva or H&K (with a decent exchange rate)

 

[William Massena]

Originally Posted by RJman

LabelKing: Lauwers has dropped off the radar. If you can find him, good for you.

Charvet uses a variety of cottons from Italy, Switzerland and perhaps England -- I've seen bolts labelled David and John Anderson there, for one.

Cloth selection is not the only factor in the quality of bespoke. That said, I've been happy with my Charvet shirts; I'm happy with the shirt Courtot made for me although their cloth selection is the exact opposite of Charvet's: basic and limited, with the possibility of ordering other cloths such the magnificent Alumo cotton-cashmere twill. Charvet's fabric room is indeed an inducement to pay twice the price for cloths you'd likely find nowhere else. However, fit and construction are important in bespoke.


RJman,

What is the starting price for bespoke at Charvet nowadays? Last time I took the elevator, MTM was 1.200 French Francs and Bespoke started at 1,500 but it was 1998.

William

 

[lawyerdad]

Originally Posted by hopkins_student

Alexander Kabbaz
+1

 

[Panzeraxe II]

I would caution against using Charvet through one of the large dept. stores - Saks, BG etc. I ordered a single shirt and it is mediocre in fit. I'm sure the real thing in Paris is far superior.

I would choose Alex Kabbaz or Mimmo Siviglia

 

[RJman]

Originally Posted by Panzeraxe II

I would caution against using Charvet through one of the large dept. stores - Saks, BG etc. I ordered a single shirt and it is mediocre in fit. I'm sure the real thing in Paris is far superior.
I would choose someone local to where you are. It's an undeniable advantage to be able to come by for fittings, especially at the beginning of the process when you've worn your first shirt through several washings and can discuss any tweaks you think should be made based on how it's worn.

Charvet has told me that what they offer in the US is in reality a stock special allowing you to fit one size collar on another size body and have the sleeves adjusted to size. This is contrary to what the department stores may tell you, but I'm inclined to believe Charvet.

 

[TIEALIGN]

I would (and do) go to Sam Cavato who is near me here in STL.