Ongoing Bespoke Projects

[Tzerkuso]

Finally (almost) ready. Shantung silk dinner jacket. A shame the texture does not show up in the pics.
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Gold medal in wasting your money on horrendous bespoke.

 

[_AMD]

That second one is awesome. Do you remember which book/mill the cloth is from?

It's the LL City Gunclub

 

[gimpwiz]

Finally (almost) ready. Shantung silk dinner jacket. A shame the texture does not show up in the pics.

Very interesting. Photos of full rig?

View attachment 2051017

Nice! Seems appropriate for your weather? Much more so than a 480g tweed I assume smooth worsted? Do you like the combination of smooth worsted and a more rustic pattern like gunclub? I am still trying to decide what I like and what I can wear. I know, I know, next year's problems (since I have decided to do maximum one commission a year...) but I want to noodle on it for a while.

 

[jonathanS]

Gold medal in wasting your money on horrendous bespoke.

I've given up - tried to be helpful. TBH, I think hes a troll - no one can be that arrogant in their ignorance.

Really nasty person.

 

[jonathanS]

It's the LL City Gunclub

I remember that one. A few years ago, Alden tried doing a summer weight version.

I don’t understand the fascination with gunclubs. I think they’re fine and all. But, tbh, I just see them as patterned jackets. Here are 2 fabrics I was examining. Pattern is different but it has the same affect (color notwithstanding).

 

[Testudo_Aubreii]

Looks nice. I just started conversations, yesterday, with a tailor about commissioning a 4x1 dinner jacket like this in deep burgundy velvet. I’m concerned that it’s a style that isn’t common for many tailors and easy to get wrong since it seems like the proportions have to be just right. Did you have to give much direction on button placement, etc?

If it's cotton velvet, and a first commission from the tailor, I'd proceed with extreme caution. Cotton is tough to tailor well. And it doesn't do a great job of holding its shape. And there's the problem of ironwork on velvet. And more. See Chris Despos's posts on the subject.

There is 100% silk velvet, which I think would be better for tailoring. But still has problems of velvet's texture.

For a plusher and shiny cloth for a bespoke DJ, I'd look to cashmere-silk or wool-cashmere-silk blends. I'm sure David Reeves would have good ideas. You could ask him here.

 

[Tzerkuso]

I've given up - tried to be helpful. TBH, I think hes a troll - no one can be that arrogant in their ignorance.

Really nasty person.

Man's suits are so bad that people start thinking he's a troll

 

[sugarbutch]

You guys could just sadface his posts and spare us. Just sayin'...

 

[Crispyj]

Can anyone explain the logic behind double breasted suit/jacket with a vest.

 

[Zerase]

I've given up - tried to be helpful. TBH, I think hes a troll - no one can be that arrogant in their ignorance.

Really nasty person.

You are of course wrong that he is a troll. But, if he was, it is the absolut best trolling I have ever seen. Commissioning bad bespoke to piss of purists in a niche thread on a niche forum is 10 out of 10 possible trolls.

 

[hpreston]

Was it a conscious decision to go for the higher buttoning waistcoat? My personal preference for DJs is a lower buttoning waistcoat. I was gonna get that silk but did not pull the trigger on it as I thought it was too lightweight? How does it drape?

I don't think the buttoning stance of the waistcoat is particularly high. It is in line with my other vests. As for the silk, it drapes ok but it wrinkles just by looking at it. I don't regret the project, but we will see how it performs when I wear it for the first time.

I think what @The Chai might mean is the waist coat here is more in line stylistically with a waistcoat intended for a suit….
check out these posts by @Andy57 to see examples

formal waistcoat




waistcoat for suit

 

[gimpwiz]

I don’t understand the fascination with gunclubs. I think they’re fine and all. But, tbh, I just see them as patterned jackets.

Sure, all they are are patterned jackets that are fine and all. But you know how some people like some patterned jackets more than others? Gunglub is just a pattern some people really like. Me included -- at least, I am a huge fan of a small number of the choices, enough to want to get a jacket in one.

Why do people like chunky tweeds, which are just one kind of tweed out of many? Why do people like whipcord for trousers, which is just one weave of many? Why did we spend like 6 pages of this thread / the black tie thread debating specific ivory cloths? All they are is just one choice out of many, but enough people like them enough to dedicate a couple pages here or there to discussing them, right?

 

[_AMD]

I remember that one. A few years ago, Alden tried doing a summer weight version.

I don’t understand the fascination with gunclubs. I think they’re fine and all. But, tbh, I just see them as patterned jackets. Here are 2 fabrics I was examining. Pattern is different but it has the same affect (color notwithstanding).


View attachment 2051387 View attachment 2051389

Sure, all they are are patterned jackets that are fine and all. But you know how some people like some patterned jackets more than others? Gunglub is just a pattern some people really like. Me included -- at least, I am a huge fan of a small number of the choices, enough to want to get a jacket in one.

Why do people like chunky tweeds, which are just one kind of tweed out of many? Why do people like whipcord for trousers, which is just one weave of many? Why did we spend like 6 pages of this thread / the black tie thread debating specific ivory cloths? All they are is just one choice out of many, but enough people like them enough to dedicate a couple pages here or there to discussing them, right?

I believe @gimpwiz covered it fairly well.

 

[ericgereghty]

You guys could just sadface his posts and spare us. Just sayin'...

Or, alternatively, he could offer the exact same unsolicited (albeit reasonable, imo) feedback, await reply reiterating OP's lack of interest in said feedback, and have the exact same snipe sesh we had (checks watch) 6 days ago!

And then bemoan why we can't simply be discussing bespoke clothing/makers and the like.

 

[jonathanS]

You are of course wrong that he is a troll. But, if he was, it is the absolut best trolling I have ever seen. Commissioning bad bespoke to piss of purist in a niche thread on a niche forum is 10 out of 10 possible trolls.

I choose to believe he’s a troll. Makes it a little entertaining tbh. I have to give him credit, his unironic trolling abilities are a 10/10.

You guys could just sadface his posts and spare us. Just sayin'...

If only we could get spared the initial post. Don’t criticize people for calling balls & strikes.

Or, alternatively, he could offer the exact same unsolicited (albeit reasonable, imo) feedback, await reply reiterating OP's lack of interest in said feedback, and have the exact same snipe sesh we had (checks watch) 6 days ago!

And then bemoan why we can't simply be discussing bespoke clothing/makers and the like.

Do you ever talk about bespoke clothing here? Commenting on op’s bespoke misfits is discussing clothing. But the ignorant troll personally attacked me for pointing out his misfits. Last time, you were complaining because I was defining bespoke. No offense, but Maybe a this thread isn’t for you.