Ongoing Bespoke Projects

[ericgereghty]

I haven't watched a football match since the early 90s. I couldn't care less about football. I also only argue about the game with people from countries with at least five World Cup wins. Anything less than that means you are from somewhere that does not really understand the game.

BTW, new project funded.

View attachment 2048789

Not to say I LIKE it, but I think this is more flattering to your midsection than a number of your other suits.

 

[jonathanS]

What book is this?

Italian Tailoring: A Glimpse into the World of Sartorial Masters
By
Journalist Yoshimi Hasegawa

She works for vbc in asia, I believe. I found it a good overview book but it didn’t dig into the weeds. Personally, I think the omission of some tailors is interesting. Namely, corcos & guida in Florence. F. Caraceni & Sartoria crescent in Milan. And in Naples, don’t get me started: including Ambrosi & neither Cerrato & Pino pommella. But also, for jacketmakers, I think missing zizolfi. But also, I think, in Naples, it’s hardly an insiders guide to Naples. Spend enough time around these forums, you’ll undoubtedly hear about Ambrosi, Ciardi, Pirozzi, panico, dalcuore, Rubinacci, zizolfi, even Sabino. There are some elements of history that are interesting but it’s hardly an insiders guide. And it could be that the smaller houses don’t want to be known. Noteably, every house mentioned starts at 3000€ minimum for a suit, whereas there are plenty of Sartorias that start closer to 2000€ if not 1500€.

Also, I found the inclusion of a Sartoria like sciamat very curious. But I guess they do have a quite distinctive style. Anyways. I think it’s a good overall guide & there could be an entire encyclopedia written for a more comprehensive guide. Or an entire book devoted to each region or major city (Milan, Rome, Florence, & Naples, but even Naples might need 2 volumes).

 

[Ghotihead2001]

Steed fitting today….

 

[9thsymph]

Steed fitting today….

Ask for a higher gorge?

 

[Crispyj]

Vintage cashmere gunclub check

 

[gimpwiz]

Damn I need me a gunclub.

 

[The Chai]

Damn I need me a gunclub.

It is currently my most worn sports jacket.

 

[Crispyj]

Ain't no brakes on the bespoke train.

 

[gimpwiz]

It is currently my most worn sports jacket.

I suspect it would be mine as well.

My favorite gun club is this: https://foxflannel.com/products/check-2 (TD50)

The problem is it's quite heavy. The best alternative I can see is https://foxflannel.com/products/brown-gunclub-check-jacketing which I don't like as much.

Hmmmmm

 

[Crispyj]

I suspect it would be mine as well.

My favorite gun club is this: https://foxflannel.com/products/check-2 (TD50)

The problem is it's quite heavy. The best alternative I can see is https://foxflannel.com/products/brown-gunclub-check-jacketing which I don't like as much.

Hmmmmm

I had one. It was quite nice. Not sure where you're located, but for NYC it wasn't bad! More tightly woven than some tweeds but not overly heavy/warm.

 

[Whatshapanin]

I suspect it would be mine as well.

My favorite gun club is this: https://foxflannel.com/products/check-2 (TD50)

The problem is it's quite heavy. The best alternative I can see is https://foxflannel.com/products/brown-gunclub-check-jacketing which I don't like as much.

Hmmmmm

I suspect it would be mine as well.

My favorite gun club is this: https://foxflannel.com/products/check-2 (TD50)

The problem is it's quite heavy. The best alternative I can see is https://foxflannel.com/products/brown-gunclub-check-jacketing which I don't like as much.

Not sure if its still available but here's one you may want to consider from Abraham Moon

 

[gimpwiz]

View attachment 2050679
I had one. It was quite nice. Not sure where you're located, but for NYC it wasn't bad! More tightly woven than some tweeds but not overly heavy/warm.

Thanks! I live in san jose so my use out of a 480gm tightly woven tweed would be... well, probably higher than one might think, but only because I'd go out of my way to wear it. What did you end up doing with yours?

Not sure if its still available but here's one you may want to consider from Abraham Moon

That's pretty cool, 310gm is more my speed. If it's available I'll get a swatch. I want something that feels adequately rugged for the pattern, whether that's worsted flannel, tweed, etc. Smooth worsted wouldn't be it for me _I think_. Dunno. I'll figure it out. That might be my next commission in fact. I have a pretty heavyweight scratchy tweed Ribonacci (second-hand) that I love, unsure what the weight is but it cannot be low. I'd probably bring it and maybe a couple others along when looking at swatches and make my decision based on that.

 

[Crispyj]

Sold it

Thanks! I live in san jose so my use out of a 480gm tightly woven tweed would be... well, probably higher than one might think, but only because I'd go out of my way to wear it. What did you end up doing with yours?


That's pretty cool, 310gm is more my speed. If it's available I'll get a swatch. I want something that feels adequately rugged for the pattern, whether that's worsted flannel, tweed, etc. Smooth worsted wouldn't be it for me _I think_. Dunno. I'll figure it out. That might be my next commission in fact. I have a pretty heavyweight scratchy tweed Ribonacci (second-hand) that I love, unsure what the weight is but it cannot be low. I'd probably bring it and maybe a couple others along when looking at swatches and make my decision based on that.

 

[TheLawBeard]

I'm also in the "I need a gunclub" boat. My liability stash is all flannel and tweed so at this point I'm watching this thread and the unfunded liability thread to see if someone posts up a solid choice for a S/S or three season gunclub. Ideally I want to find something that I can wear with most odd trousers for use as my "go-to" warm weather sportcoat.

 

[jonathanS]

Thanks! I live in san jose so my use out of a 480gm tightly woven tweed would be... well, probably higher than one might think, but only because I'd go out of my way to wear it. What did you end up doing with yours?


That's pretty cool, 310gm is more my speed. If it's available I'll get a swatch. I want something that feels adequately rugged for the pattern, whether that's worsted flannel, tweed, etc. Smooth worsted wouldn't be it for me _I think_. Dunno. I'll figure it out. That might be my next commission in fact. I have a pretty heavyweight scratchy tweed Ribonacci (second-hand) that I love, unsure what the weight is but it cannot be low. I'd probably bring it and maybe a couple others along when looking at swatches and make my decision based on that.

Personally, a 450g tweed is a perfect jacket for San Francisco. It’s all in your head. Reminds me of one of Alden’s sartorials. He wrote:

I know I have told this story a few times, but here it goes again.

A couple decades ago I was visiting the premier men’s shop in Paris wearing a particularly handsome tweed jacket. The shop was top drawer in every respect and had a team of tailors on the premises. My coat was immediately noticed and a few of the sales staff came over to me to see it more closely. After a few minutes, the manager of the store and resident expert on all things sartorial came over as well. “Nice coat!”, he said with some admiration in his voice, “That’a a great tweed. Looks nice and sturdy like old tweeds used to be. Too bad they are so heavy.” I smiled, thanked him and suggested he try my coat on to see if it were too heavy or not. We were about the same size and when he slipped the coat on he said with some surprise, “Oh no, this coat feels very nice to wear. Lovely. It’s stout but nothing over the top.” “What weight cloth do you reckon it is?”, I asked. “Oh it’s got to be at least 400 maybe 450 gms. Pretty heavy for most people.” I reinstalled the coat onto my shoulders as I revealed the truth to him, “That coat is made from an 800 gms Cheviot tweed.” The choir of sales staff gasped in unison “800 gms Tweed! OH MY GOD!” A few of them nearly passed out.

“Yes”, I replied with a grin, “and this little experiment of mine has proven that the difference between 400 gms and 800 gms tweed is all in your head!”

to the contrary; because San Francisco is so cold year round (and those who know San Francisco / Bay Area includes San Jose), the 450g tweed jacket is a year round jacket! Perfect for San Francisco weather!