Ongoing Bespoke Projects

[james.darley]

Thanks for the info. I just met with Domenico in nyc during the trunk show for a tweed jacket. I have been asking to make the jacket slightly roomier (so not directly “traditional” cut) because I’d like to layer a sweater sometimes. My phone was dying and I didn’t take any photos today. But he told me I should be getting the jacket in November so I’ll post some photos by then for comparison.

Nice! Do you have any photos from your fitting?

 

[jonathanS]

In my experience and talking to other clients, Nunzio also cuts a more modern garment. He did so even before Domenico's direct influence since he spent a lot of time in Japan. He mentioned to me that his Japanese clientele preferred a closer fitting suit. At least that was my understanding, but it might have been lost in translation.

I think Simon also mentions in his article that he was surprised with Nunzio's house cut given his age and training. The jackets that I saw Nunzio wearing himself were also quite modern and slim. This wasn't my experience when visiting Gennaro Paone and the older Solito. Both were wearing roomier garments.

Yes, that sounds correct (about paone & Solito - as mentioned above in the brief Neapolitan tailoring history). It surprises me that Pirozzi cut such a modern / trim jacket. Nothing wrong with either. I thought maybe that was a new thing.

To me, the interesting one is blasi / Ciardi. Blasi cut almost an English garment whereas Ciardi cuts a more traditional Neapolitan jacket.

My eye is drawn more toward the traditional Neapolitan jacket. In fact, your mentioning of paone makes me think I should add him to my list of Neapolitan tailors I’m considering, if I add another tailor / want a Neapolitan jacket

 

[james.darley]

Yes, that sounds correct (about paone & Solito - as mentioned above in the brief Neapolitan tailoring history). It surprises me that Pirozzi cut such a modern / trim jacket. Nothing wrong with either. I thought maybe that was a new thing.

To me, the interesting one is blasi / Ciardi. Blasi cut almost an English garment whereas Ciardi cuts a more traditional Neapolitan jacket.

My eye is drawn more toward the traditional Neapolitan jacket. In fact, your mentioning of paone makes me think I should add him to my list of Neapolitan tailors I’m considering, if I add another tailor / want a Neapolitan jacket

I am a big fan of Paone and most likely would use him again, if it wasn't for that fact that I would need to travel to Napoli for every commission. Also, you will find his prices to be very reasonable, especially for CMT.

 

[mp94]

A day of fittings in Florence:


A second fitting with Liverano for a DB in winter weight POW.
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Then onto Corcos for a final fitting of a Tuxedo.
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Second fitting for a brownish/greyish sharkskin suit.
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Last one was a first fitting with Vittorio Salino who is working out of Seminara's space.
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Latest suit in from Kotaro! Vintage brown sharkskin by an English mill called "Learoyd" that I found digging around Milan. If anyone knows anything about it, let me know!

 

[S K M]

I am a big fan of Paone and most likely would use him again, if it wasn't for that fact that I would need to travel to Napoli for every commission. Also, you will find his prices to be very reasonable, especially for CMT.

Agreed, to me his CMT prices are so reasonable that they actually justify the whole trip, but then again I'm based in Europe.

 

[Marshak]

Simple but perfect.
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Vintage high twist fitting.
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Simply stunning.

 

[ddohnggo]

Assisi commission.. 3 piece chalk stripe View attachment 2048115

what're your thoughts on assisi's work?

 

[marcusngjm]

what're your thoughts on assisi's work?

tbh i really like their work and for it's price its pretty value for money. tbf their mtm garments are pretty good as well. my friend did one and collected it with minor adjustments to be done, i.e. slight taper at calves and a cleaner break.

have an appointment with corcos lined up in december so will try to compare as their prices will be quite similar from my currency perspective

 

[twuthetiger]

Nice! Do you have any photos from your fitting?

I don’t but will update once I get the garment next month!

 

[othertravel]

Latest suit in from Kotaro! Vintage brown sharkskin by an English mill called "Learoyd" that I found digging around Milan. If anyone knows anything about it, let me know!
View attachment 2048187

Looks great. Also, is that your shop?

 

[mp94]

Looks great. Also, is that your shop?

It's The Armoury's newest shop in Hong Kong!

 

[brax]

If football really offended Brazilians, we would have razed Argentina to the ground many years ago. Granted, that would most likely have been preferable to having Milei leading the polls, but we would not have known that as we marched through Bs As crushing our enemies, seeing them driven before us, and hearing the lamentations of their women.

Don’t cry when Boca raises the Copa Libertadores on the most hallowed grounds of Brazilian soccer next month.

 

[brax]

Latest suit in from Kotaro! Vintage brown sharkskin by an English mill called "Learoyd" that I found digging around Milan. If anyone knows anything about it, let me know!
View attachment 2048187

Learoyd is woven to drive the wearer mad especially those with three daughters. You may like it.

 

[bernoulli]

Don’t cry when Boca raises the Copa Libertadores on the most hallowed grounds of Brazilian soccer next month.

I haven't watched a football match since the early 90s. I couldn't care less about football. I also only argue about the game with people from countries with at least five World Cup wins. Anything less than that means you are from somewhere that does not really understand the game.

BTW, new project funded.

 

[sftiger]

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@james.darley @P-K-L re: the younger Pirozzi (of Sartoria nunzio Pirozzi) being from kiton & starting his own Sartoria, I thought I read that somewhere. Second column.

What book is this?