Ongoing Bespoke Projects

[Sreezy36]

I’m thinking of lining mine with a 50/50 cashmere / silk lining. Not that I need it. Just an interesting added detail. I have the fabric & im so far away from doing anything with it, why not? My tailor doesn’t think it’ll wear any warmer but we’ll see in person.

Moving to Greenland?

 

[comrade]

When I lived in Chicago I waited for my train on a open air platform,
then walked to my office 4 blocks from the station including the wind-swept bridge
over the Chicago River I rotated between a 32 0z British Warm and an Invertere melton
greatcoat. On milder days I wore Burberry balmacaan with a very tight weave water
repellant wool like Loden. For blizzards I dispensed with corporate dress and wore a
down jacket with heavy boots.

 

[twuthetiger]

@jonathanS I thought about our previous conversation since I was recently reading the Sartoria Nunzio Pirozzi website where it mentioned Domenico’s past with Kiton.

The good thing is that both appear to produce excellent garments. Then which style is better is purely up to taste.

Also on a human level both are good and honest individuals, which is equally as important as being a great artisan.

I never had the pleasure of working with Master Nunzio Pirozzi. Does he and his son cut different styles? I have heard the younger Neapolitan cut the jacket slightly shorter and slimmer, not sure if this is the case here

 

[Crispyj]

Simple but perfect.


Vintage high twist fitting.

 

[jonathanS]

I never had the pleasure of working with Master Nunzio Pirozzi. Does he and his son cut different styles? I have heard the younger Neapolitan cut the jacket slightly shorter and slimmer, not sure if this is the case here

Not sure, by all accounts nunzio is supposed to be one of the Neapolitan masters of his generation. But I’ve always wondered what the means, if it means anything.

Anyways, there are plenty of members here and on social media pages that have had very successful results from Sartoria Pirozzi. Hugo jacomet, of Parisian gentleman, raves about nunzio Pirozzi.

In the 30s and 40s there were a few masters: Vincenzo attolini, Angelo blasi, & Roberto combattente.

As it mentioned in the photograph I took, Pirozzi trained under both blasi & attolini. Which, to me, would indicate that he cuts a more traditional Neapolitan garment. It’s interesting that his son cuts, as you’ve described, a more modern garment; I am sure, they could produce a more traditional Neapolitan garment if you asked, given nunzio’s background. But I’m not sure. Better to ask them.

For those wondering, I hadn’t heard of combattente either until I was doing some weekend reading earlier today (it was raining). Combattente was Antonio panico’s mentor, as well as Mario formosa’s (of Sartoria Formosa, before he passed) maestro. Panico is interesting because he also trained under blasi, but then took over the cutting at London house / Rubinacci (London house was the original name for Rubinacci) after Vincenzo Attolini passed away in the early 1970s (I believe he worked there first and then ascended to head cutter when attolini passed). Eventually, he opened his own Sartoria &, I believe, it was paone that took over as rubinacci’s head cutter.

For completeness sake,
-Blasi was the maestro for the modern day houses of Ciardi (Renato Ciardi, now lead by his sons) and Sabino (Pasquale sabino, run by his sons who makes for a-rod, the former New York yankee 3rd baseman).
-and Vincenzo attolini, was the maestro for both Luigi Solito (the grandfather of the younger Solito at Sartoria Solito & father of gennero Solito, who is regarded as a maestro in his own right) & Ciro Palermo (the maestro for his own Sartoria until he his protege, ciro zizolfi, took over the Sartoria when he passed).

I hope I got the brief Napoli history correct. Anyone feel free to correct me if I am wrong

 

[ddohnggo]

Simple but perfect.
View attachment 2048075

Vintage high twist fitting.
View attachment 2048079

I was really impressed with the grey jacket when I saw it hanging. Might have to commission a similar suit in the future.

 

[CLH03]

Simple but perfect.
View attachment 2048075

Vintage high twist fitting.
View attachment 2048079

Is that the sportex cloth? How would you describe it? Looks incredible!

 

[marcusngjm]

Assisi commission.. 3 piece chalk stripe

 

[marcusngjm]

Simple but perfect.
View attachment 2048075

Vintage high twist fitting.
View attachment 2048079

What cloth is the grey suit!

 

[Crispyj]

What cloth is the grey suit!

Old Cerruti, similar to sportex

 

[Crispyj]

Is that the sportex cloth? How would you describe it? Looks incredible!

Tessuto pettinato is what Q told me. Very similar to sportex. Like birdseye but squared.

 

[james.darley]

I never had the pleasure of working with Master Nunzio Pirozzi. Does he and his son cut different styles? I have heard the younger Neapolitan cut the jacket slightly shorter and slimmer, not sure if this is the case here

So I had the distinct pleasure to have both Nunzio and Domenico at my first appointment and first fitting. The overall house style whether it be Nunzio or Domencio is to cut modern. By that I mean the jacket is a bit shorter and slimmer and the trousers are narrower (not tight) and shorter.

A cool thing about Sartoria Pirozzi is that their trousers are made in-house. Unlike many Neapolitan tailors, they don't send it to be made elsewhere and just take care of the jacket. And at 500 euros at their trunk shows, I think the price is pretty darn unbeatable.

Now having said the above, both Nunzio and Domenico are able to cut a more "traditional" Neapolitan suit and add a bit of drape. However if that is what you are seeking, then it might be better to go to Gennaro Paone, Zizolfi, Panico, and Ciardi. Although from that list, I believe only Zizolfi travels to the US.

If you want a more "traditional" cut, then you will need to relay that to them. I did during my first meeting and let them know that I wanted a more traditional garment. I've shared this photo before, but here was the end result. As a comparison, I put a photo of @gazman70 in his Gennaro Paone DB.

 

[jonathanS]

So I had the distinct pleasure to have both Nunzio and Domenico at my first appointment and first fitting. The overall house style whether it be Nunzio or Domencio is to cut modern. By that I mean the jacket is a bit shorter and slimmer and the trousers are narrower (not tight) and shorter.

A cool thing about Sartoria Pirozzi is that their trousers are made in-house. Unlike many Neapolitan tailors, they don't send it to be made elsewhere and just take care of the jacket. And at 500 euros at their trunk shows, I think the price is pretty darn unbeatable.

Now having said the above, both Nunzio and Domenico are able to cut a more "traditional" Neapolitan suit and add a bit of drape. However if that is what you are seeking, then it might be better to go to Gennaro Paone, Zizolfi, Panico, and Ciardi. Although from that list, I believe only Zizolfi travels to the US.

If you want a more "traditional" cut, then you will need to relay that to them. I did during my first meeting and let them know that I wanted a more traditional garment. I've shared this photo before, but here was the end result. As a comparison, I put a photo of @gazman70 in his Gennaro Paone DB.

View attachment 2048119 View attachment 2048123

Does nunzio also cut a more modern garment? Or is that a new thing brought on by domenico? Given his training, I’d have thought he’d be a more traditional silhouette. But I’ve never ordered from him, so what do I know!

That is a damn good price for trousers. But Napoli trousers tend to be rather tight which doesn’t work for me.

 

[twuthetiger]

So I had the distinct pleasure to have both Nunzio and Domenico at my first appointment and first fitting. The overall house style whether it be Nunzio or Domencio is to cut modern. By that I mean the jacket is a bit shorter and slimmer and the trousers are narrower (not tight) and shorter.

A cool thing about Sartoria Pirozzi is that their trousers are made in-house. Unlike many Neapolitan tailors, they don't send it to be made elsewhere and just take care of the jacket. And at 500 euros at their trunk shows, I think the price is pretty darn unbeatable.

Now having said the above, both Nunzio and Domenico are able to cut a more "traditional" Neapolitan suit and add a bit of drape. However if that is what you are seeking, then it might be better to go to Gennaro Paone, Zizolfi, Panico, and Ciardi. Although from that list, I believe only Zizolfi travels to the US.

If you want a more "traditional" cut, then you will need to relay that to them. I did during my first meeting and let them know that I wanted a more traditional garment. I've shared this photo before, but here was the end result. As a comparison, I put a photo of @gazman70 in his Gennaro Paone DB.

View attachment 2048119 View attachment 2048123

Thanks for the info. I just met with Domenico in nyc during the trunk show for a tweed jacket. I have been asking to make the jacket slightly roomier (so not directly “traditional” cut) because I’d like to layer a sweater sometimes. My phone was dying and I didn’t take any photos today. But he told me I should be getting the jacket in November so I’ll post some photos by then for comparison.

 

[james.darley]

Does nunzio also cut a more modern garment? Or is that a new thing brought on by domenico? Given his training, I’d have thought he’d be a more traditional silhouette. But I’ve never ordered from him, so what do I know!

That is a damn good price for trousers. But Napoli trousers tend to be rather tight which doesn’t work for me.

In my experience and talking to other clients, Nunzio also cuts a more modern garment. He did so even before Domenico's direct influence since he spent a lot of time in Japan. He mentioned to me that his Japanese clientele preferred a closer fitting suit. At least that was my understanding, but it might have been lost in translation.

I think Simon also mentions in his article that he was surprised with Nunzio's house cut given his age and training. The jackets that I saw Nunzio wearing himself were also quite modern and slim. This wasn't my experience when visiting Gennaro Paone and the older Solito. Both were wearing roomier garments.