OFFICIAL Simon Crompton thread (PermanentStyle.com)

[rossyl]

Yes. Graham Browne off Bow Lane etc. SC was a small time blogger then with another job as well.

When he left that job and went independent there would be extra money to find. High end bespoke with high margins was an area of discussion without too many other bloggers. I am not sure of his income sources but I imagine some suits might be offered free in exchange for an article.

Now there are changes that mean bespoke may not be so profitable as in the past. So SC concentrates on more casual items but at the very expensive end with high mark up.

He seems to have an established readership who adapt to the change in emphasis.

I am not sure I would look to him for a basic wardrobe though.

Yes, that is indeed chart of his changes over the years. My point was I preferred it before, when PS was a side business, before it transformed into very expensive is the only way. Also, there is clear contradiction, bespoke clothing from low produced cloth, does not share much with high end trainers, t-shirts or other casual clothing. A lot of the what makes bespoke special, does not translate at all into high end casual. And I think Simon struggles to justify it. Luckily the casual market is full of overpriced stuff.

Perhaps, but what else would you expect someone to do in regards to the guidelines you set up? I mean, if your fictional 25 year old came to SF with that question I guarantee the answer would be “Spier, Natalino or SS” and it would be the right answer. What other options are there (don’t say thrifting or eBay)?

Much like PS said in the early days, or English Cut (the old blog by the head Cutter from Anderson & Shepherd), a good off the peg, taken to a good alterations tailor.
Spending more than you can afford, isn't good advice.

Simon's "budget" article suggesting spending £6k on a Tank is frankly absurd.

 

[Kingstonian]

Yes, ‘The English Cut‘ chap Mr.Mahon recommended off the peg from Marks and Sparks, with alterations, if money was tight.

That might suit you better. However, if you want a particular cloth or style you may need to get the suit specially made.

Again, if the blog is your only income you need to ensure it pays its way. Furthermore, if you aspire to become a menswear ‘expert’, the expensive gear will need to be discussed.

 

[mak1277]

a good off the peg, taken to a good alterations tailor.

Right…like Spier or Natalino. This is exactly what’s in that “under $1k” article. I don’t understand what you’d want to be different.

 

[rossyl]

Right…like Spier or Natalino. This is exactly what’s in that “under $1k” article. I don’t understand what you’d want to be different.

I wouldn't recommend that to someone in their early 20s just starting out.

See above, I'd suggest decent high street taken to a good tailor.

But this is straying from the point.

A lot in PS is now expensive for the sake of being expensive.

The reasons for going bespoke and the justification for it being expensive do not marry up with expensive casual clothing. Common Projects trainers are frankly ridiculous, poor value.

I understand he is now just trying to serve a market, but my point was he has stayed a long way from where he started out, and the ethos of the site has significantly changed. I do not agree with expensive for the sake of expensive.

 

[rossyl]

Yes, ‘The English Cut‘ chap Mr.Mahon recommended off the peg from Marks and Sparks, with alterations, if money was tight.

That might suit you better. However, if you want a particular cloth or style you may need to get the suit specially made.

Again, if the blog is your only income you need to ensure it pays its way. Furthermore, if you aspire to become a menswear ‘expert’, the expensive gear will need to be discussed.

Indeed.

Had some very good stuff made by Mr Mahon, I think I was one of his early customers at English Cut, and loved his old blog. He's at Redmayne now.

 

[Kingstonian]

Indeed.

Had some very good stuff made by Mr Mahon, I think I was one of his early customers at English Cut, and loved his old blog. He's at Redmayne now.

Yes, but a two piece Redmayne bespoke suit is five grand now. So not for someone on a tight budget.

There are other tailors at the Graham Browne price range - MacAngus and Wainwright etc. Nobody writes about them though. Meanwhile Sims & MacDonald, on Lambs Conduit Street, went into liquidation. Hard times.

 

[pasadena man]

I got back into CM about six years ago. The writers I found most helpful were Bruce Boyer, Alan Flusser, Die Workwear, and Simon Crompton. Simon is the one of those still churning out long(ish) content 2-3 times a week. I have learned a lot from him, enjoy his writing, and find his analyses helpful, even where I don’t agree; they provide a useful point of orientation.

My understanding is that he came out of a London financial journalism background, which historically had tight CM boundaries. He saw the gap in online commentary with bespoke/high end, and successfully filled that niche.

Focusing PS site positioning on “bespoke” is tighter and more distinctive than “high quality”. The articles on very high end bespoke are occasionally interesting, although I do not/will not be purchasing in that segment.

I find his articles on things such as good RTW, higher end, chinos for example, to be more helpful (comparing say, the Armoury, Drake’s, A & S, and one or two Italian makers).

I don’t mind high end frou-frou content. I often just ignore it. He generates so much content that I usually find items of interest every week.

I would make a comparison to watch blogs. Comparatively few readers are going to be purchasing Patek, or Lange, or AP, but there will always be a lot of content on those brands which will be eagerly consumed. I see PS’s SR bespoke suit excursions to be analogous content. Ditto extensive car magazine coverage of exotic and of 500 HP + car models.

When you get to the very top end of categories like CM suits, watches, and cars there is a lot to be said for living vicariously.

 

[St1X]

First of all, people change with time. 15 years is a long time. So no surprise here that PS is completely different now.
Simon had a poll on who his readers are and what they prefer to read on his blog. So he knows his core audience and it clearly pays out.

 

[ppk]

First of all, people change with time. 15 years is a long time. So no surprise here that PS is completely different now.
Simon had a poll on who his readers are and what they prefer to read on his blog. So he knows his core audience and it clearly pays out.

I'm definitely not a member of his core audience. However, I'm very curious about some of the topics he writes about - for example the style breakdowns. I want to understand what makes a suit (or jacket) look the way it looks and form a perspective on what I want to try, knowing that I will likely never commission a bespoke suit.

 

[classicalthunde]

However, I'm very curious about some of the topics he writes about - for example the style breakdowns.

I think this was probably the best running series, and a good way for people to quasi-objectively compare various house styles

 

[twuthetiger]

Anyone tried out the grey cashmere crewneck from permanent style. The sizing seems a bit long in the sleeves or body.

 

[Kingstonian]

Crompton is pushing double breasted blazers at the moment. The twist is a slightly heavier fabric makes them an alternative to a coat.

There is Seiji - an Asian version of Benny from ‘Crossroads’ in a wooly hat, T shirt and shapeless jeans.

Ethan in a daft hat and jeans is there for comparison.

Crompton‘s crowd just take it as read that this is a good look.

 

[ppk]

Crompton is pushing double breasted blazers at the moment. The twist is a slightly heavier fabric makes them an alternative to a coat.

There is Seiji - an oriental version of Benny from ‘Crossroads’ in a wooly hat, T shirt and shapeless jeans.

Ethan in a daft hat and jeans is there for comparison.

Crompton‘s crowd just take it as read that this is a good look.

Nothing to do with what he is wearing, but Seiji is a top notch bespoke Japanese shoemaker whose waiting list is years long.

I'm not sure I would wear a Melton DB coat. That seems too heavy and I have at least 5 Melton top coats - i.e. I love Melton.

 

[HannibalLecter]

I am waiting for a thread on gentleman's Gazette

Seriously now, in my opinion, on mens classic formal suits there is only one true pioneer. And that is Hugo Jacomet. Of course, most of his suits are 8k Cifonelli I think, so out of reach. Also he does them a bit artistically for my taste. (And I can't even buy the buttons)
That's where Simon fits. He did bespoke often and i think mostly English tailoring. When I look at him at a suit I know what to look in a good coat etc. Best for me after Hugo would be He Spoke Style. Next is Simon and then is Kirby Allison. I watched many of his videos because you dont often get insight of Henry poole etc, but in my opinion, he just follows the rules, he doesn't contribute anything new. Also most of his documentaries and interviews you take the feeling that he just cares to jump in the next question or statement, and not gasp the itemin front of him.
As for Simon, if his site devolved in a high snobriety club i don't know. Also, I don't take for a gospel other's opinions, but in the most part he has a keen eye for style. And I think he wears a baseball hat because he is bald, mainly.
Another thing touched in this thread is that for most people, going bespoke or tailored is not an option. I wanted to buy a wool coat, not made in China, rtw, with soome sartorial flair, i can't afford above a thousand, and the only or one out of the very few options is pini parma. But let's not go of topic. I noticed long ago his snobbery in some articles and that didn't strike me well.

 

[mak1277]

Crompton is pushing double breasted blazers at the moment. The twist is a slightly heavier fabric makes them an alternative to a coat.

There is Seiji - an oriental version of Benny from ‘Crossroads’ in a wooly hat, T shirt and shapeless jeans.

Fat*y Ethan in a daft hat and jeans is there for comparison.

Crompton‘s crowd just take it as read that this is a good look.

I kind of like those fits. I’ve been hemming and hawing over the SEH Kelly pea coat in camel, I actually think a heavy DB sport coat in camel would be even better. I wear tailoring as outerwear fairly often rather than a light jacket.