Japanese Shoes: Bespoke & RTW Super Thread

[bboysdontcryy]

After Nutcracker posted the picture of his Fugee briefcase the last time around, I cldn't help but follow in his trail, and recently commissioned a briefcase in bridle and an elephant skin wallet. Was taken through the process by a very knowledgable craftsman. The only downside to this, is that gratification is significantly delayed, as with most bespoke products. I'm only anticipating delivery in 2019.

Some pictures of his workshop, the leathers I was shown, and him taking me through the process.

 

[ThinkDerm]

is 2019 the real date expected?

 

[venividivicibj]

Yeah, was that for real?

 

[bboysdontcryy]

Yes, it is. He has a lot of orders and he hand stitches the whole case, so there. Painfully long but he was upfront about it and I was given the option to walk away so it's not as if I was duped into it.

 

[Stone]



Yes, it is. He has a lot of orders and he hand stitches the whole case, so there. Painfully long but he was upfront about it and I was given the option to walk away so it's not as if I was duped into it.

Serious patience, that's impressive. What payment does he ask for up front?

 

[nutcracker]

Yes, 4 years was what I was told too for new orders. I think I lucked out with 1 1/2 yrs wait

 

[bboysdontcryy]

Nutcracker is helluva lucky. How's your bag holding up?

I think it's 30% down payment. Fugee is definitely not your first port of cal if you want a new first bag, or have a pressing need. I have a number, so, I suppose no harm. The alternative would be not having the bag which, in my books, was worse than having to wait a few years.

 

[fllick]

Placed an order with Yohei Fukuda last month, looking forward to my fitting in a few months time. First bespoke order ever, was deciding between Qnai-san or Yohei, but decided it was more convenient to go with Yohei since I am in Tokyo and I prefer Yohei's style ever so slightly.

 

[bboysdontcryy]



Placed an order with Yohei Fukuda last month, looking forward to my fitting in a few months time. First bespoke order ever, was deciding between Qnai-san or Yohei, but decided it was more convenient to go with Yohei since I am in Tokyo and I prefer Yohei's style ever so slightly. 

Post some pics did you go the bespoke route?

 

[fllick]

Post some pics

did you go the bespoke route?

Yohei Fukuda has a few options, I took the option almost full bespoke but choosing one of his designs and not designing my own shoe. So my own lasts, fitting sessions etc. Bespoke fit with a not so bespoke design i guess. I really like his ebony model from his heritage collection. it was like entering a candy store, the shoes on display were just mind-blowing.

 

[venividivicibj]

But will it be done before 2019?

 

[VRaivio]

Nutcracker, is there a meta union or organization in Japan for all the cordwainers around the country? Given that the land of the rising sun now lives a renaissance of shoemaking, it would be fascinating to have a show pair made at each maker, just to be kept in an archive for posterity. This is a case for material or cultural history, you know, we're not talking shoes only.

 

[nutcracker]



Nutcracker, is there a meta union or organization in Japan for all the cordwainers around the country? Given that the land of the rising sun now lives a renaissance of shoemaking, it would be fascinating to have a show pair made at each maker, just to be kept in an archive for posterity. This is a case for material or cultural history, you know, we're not talking shoes only.

There are quite a few Leather-makers / tanners organisations / associations, JLIA probably the most visible one (with many shoemakers / manufacturers). JLIA runs its own gallery in Ginza (TIME & EFFORT), where they sometimes organise shoes-related events, including exhibitions of bespoke shoemakers` works, or theme-related shows (such as inviting only female shoemakers). However, many of the best Japanese makers we are familiar with here on SF are not involved with these organisations, as far as I know.

 

[ntempleman]

However, many of the best Japanese makers we are familiar with here on SF are not involved with these organisations, as far as I know.

It's a similar situation here in the UK, there's a cordwainers guild but I'll be damned if I know any professionals who are actually members. Makes you wonder how these places are running and what they actually do.

 

[bengal-stripe]

In the UK, you have the "Independent Shoemakers" whose members include many of the smaller shoemaking firms, but not the internationally known West-End firms.

http://www.shoemakers.org.uk/


Nevertheless, they do organize an annual conference. Some of the people attending do work for the big West-End firms, either fully employed or as outworkers.

http://www.shoemakers.org.uk/conference.asp