Japanese Shoes: Bespoke & RTW Super Thread

[VRaivio]

Stefan88, with your order you're helping likely the most talented cordwainer of this day keep up his passion and the Gentle Craft. You are the man -- heja, Stefan!

 

[ntempleman]



the Gentle Craft.

Whoever coined that phrase hadn't ever seen a shoe getting reblocked.

 

[BespokeMakers]

A Visit to Antica Bottega della Spigola
2014 Year End Special Photos in SPIGOLA Kobe Workshop
Picture Courtesy of Coccinella
http://www.coccinella-jp.com/
http://cc-coccinella.tumblr.com/
http://instagram.com/cc.coccinella/
https://www.facebook.com/coccinella.jp

 

[bengal-stripe]



........passion and the Gentle Craft.

Surely, the "Gentle Craft" must be lace making.

 

[Stefan88]



Stefan88, with your order you're helping likely the most talented cordwainer of this day keep up his passion and the Gentle Craft. You are the man -- heja, Stefan!

Haha thanks. Note that I'm not doing it out of charity though!

 

[DWFII]

Elizabethan in origin--The Shoemaker's Holiday or The Gentle Craft.--Thomas Dekker 1599

Gentle refers to shoemaking being a noble Trade probably because the patron Saint of Shoemaking-- St Crispin-- was a Roman of noble birth before he converted to Christianity and was disowned by his family. To earn a living he took up shoemaking.

He was martyred in 288 AD in Soissons France.

Might be regional but I don't know what "reblocking" is...

 

[bboysdontcryy]

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

Good stuff. This continues to be one of my favorite threads. Trying to plan a trip down to Kobe, but I can't seem to get Spigola's opening hours in 2015. Anybody knows which day of the week they're closed? Not sure if he accepts CC, so probably going to bring enough cash down (assuming I don't get mugged). Was reading Nutcracker's post that Spigola prices from Japan are as below, in 2013. Anybody aware of the latest set of prices?

For a Koji Suzuki MTO, you gotta show up at their Kobe studio, or visit one of their trunk shows in Tokyo or elsewhere. I highly doubt they do mail orders, unless they're familiar with you. Cheapest if you get it direct, and a lil more at the Trunk Shows. Price starts from ¥108,000 yen direct ($1080 USD or so). Price starts from ¥126,000 ($200 premium) at the Tokyo Trunk Show.

 

[nutcracker]



Good stuff. This continues to be one of my favorite threads. Trying to plan a trip down to Kobe, but I can't seem to get Spigola's opening hours in 2015. Anybody knows which day of the week they're closed? Not sure if he accepts CC, so probably going to bring enough cash down (assuming I don't get mugged).

Was reading Nutcracker's post that Spigola prices from Japan are as below, in 2013. Anybody aware of the latest set of prices?

Check out Spigola`s pricing page
http://www.spigola.jp/#/news140401

Price is 123000 and up~ now. They are closed on Wednesday.

 

[bboysdontcryy]

Sweet! Probably going to purchase designs similar to the two pairs below with minor variations, and a pair of lazy man oxfords, so I hope that bringing 130k JPY for each should suffice. That llama leather looks darn enticing. One of the pics courtesy of Ethandesu.

How much should we set aside for the trees? They're supplied separately, I suppose.

 

[nutcracker]



Sweet! Probably going to purchase designs similar to the two pairs below with minor variations, and a pair of lazy man oxfords, so I hope that bringing 130k JPY for each should suffice. That llama leather looks darn enticing. One of the pics courtesy of Ethandesu.

How much should we set aside for the trees? They're supplied separately, I suppose.

Make sure you check the prices from the link I posted above. Lazy-man oxford (side elastics) go for 146K JPY

Lllma leather has an up-charge, forgot how much. For trees, Spigola offers several: Off the shelf generic LCA trees, 3 piece lasted trees (like my llama shoes above), and a premium lightweight lasted trees (from the bottom picture by t Armoury).

 

[bboysdontcryy]

Yups. Will check it out! Can't load at work. Bah.

 

[ntempleman]



Might be regional but I don't know what "reblocking" is...

It's the name for the task of combining a slightly smaller shoe with a slightly larger last, for whatever reason.

 

[chogall]



It's the name for the task of combining a slightly smaller shoe with a slightly larger last, for whatever reason.

Do you usually wet the whole upper so it's more pliable? What's the difference between reblocking and stretching?

 

[ntempleman]

You'd want to wet the upper somehow before any adjustment of a finished shoe like that, a small tweak would simply bounce back if dry and a big tweak needs some assistance. There's not much difference in the effect, but a stretch could possibly be done with a stretcher while a reblock would suggest a reasonably different last, liberal distribution of chalk and a large mallet.

 

[BespokeMakers]

A Visit to Antica Bottega della Spigola
2014 Year End Special Photos in SPIGOLA Kobe Workshop
Picture Courtesy of Coccinella
https://www.facebook.com/coccinella.jp