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I quite like the handsewn apron details, but I want to ask: how does one tell the difference between a handsewn, and a pair that is not??
I quite like the handsewn apron details, but I want to ask: how does one tell the difference between a handsewn, and a pair that is not??
The most obvious tell is that the toes is "skin stitched"--the thread enters the leather on the flesh surface, penetrates a little more than halfway through the substance of the leather, emerges on the very edge and enters the connecting piece at the very edge emerging on the surface of the fleshside of the leather. It's essentially a tunnel stitch and the thread never shows on the grain side. The point is that this cannot be done by machine.
The apron stitch itself is done similarly except that the stitches are visible.The top piece is done as a tunnel stitch but the sides are penetrated perpendicular to the substance of the leather. Again, this kind of stitch cannot be done by machine.
In both cases, the stitching has a very distinctive appearance once you know what you're looking at.
Sorry if the explanation is clumsy...that's the best I got this morning.
Probably a stupid question, DWFII, but do you know why it doesn't seem possible to get this same effect on suede? Calf ones have a really pretty pie-crust apron, but on suede, it's pretty much just a typical ridge.
Is it just because the nap hides all the detail?
The most obvious tell is that the toes is "skin stitched"--the thread enters the leather on the flesh surface, penetrates a little more than halfway through the substance of the leather, emerges on the very edge and enters the connecting piece at the very edge emerging on the surface of the fleshside of the leather. It's essentially a tunnel stitch and the thread never shows on the grain side. The point is that this cannot be done by machine.
The apron stitch itself is done similarly except that the stitches are visible.The top piece is done as a tunnel stitch but the sides are penetrated perpendicular to the substance of the leather. Again, this kind of stitch cannot be done by machine.
In both cases, the stitching has a very distinctive appearance once you know what you're looking at.
Sorry if the explanation is clumsy...that's the best I got this morning.
Actually there is machines that can do skin stitches. They are mainly used in Italy to make the quite popular decoration stitches on the inside of the leather a lot of brands do there. It' s mainly done by hand of course but some use machine, I believe Santoni for example does for some of their shoes with this type of decorative stitching. Depending on leather thickness you adjust the machine so it sews in the flesh correctly. Won't look as delicate as handmade though. I assume you can use it for stitching a toe too.
I didn't know that...will wonders never cease?
The most obvious tell is that the toes is "skin stitched"--the thread enters the leather on the flesh surface, penetrates a little more than halfway through the substance of the leather, emerges on the very edge and enters the connecting piece at the very edge emerging on the surface of the fleshside of the leather. It's essentially a tunnel stitch and the thread never shows on the grain side. The point is that this cannot be done by machine.
The apron stitch itself is done similarly except that the stitches are visible.The top piece is done as a tunnel stitch but the sides are penetrated perpendicular to the substance of the leather. Again, this kind of stitch cannot be done by machine.
In both cases, the stitching has a very distinctive appearance once you know what you're looking at.
Sorry if the explanation is clumsy...that's the best I got this morning.
thank you for your explanation, can you elaborate on tunnel stitching?
wow, the threads go in between the leather! didn't know that, and that explains the bulging in the leather around the apron.