How to choose the right suit for your body type

[Gaviao]

So as I stated in my intro I know almost NOTHING about style.... hence why I joined this site, in the hopes of learning about it.

I'm hoping to buy a couple of suits soon to go with a new job and I realized that I have NO idea what kind of suit I should buy. I was hoping that some of you could help with what kind of suit works best for different body types.

I am short and stocky - 5'5" with a 42 inch chest to give you an idea.

So I hope someone can give me some help. Thanks!

 

[Digmenow]

Gaviao,

There's no indication in your profile of where you might be located to this advice may be a bit off target, but...

If you really have no idea what fits you, not unlike me not that long ago (and I'm still learning as I go), why not go to some local thrift stores and look for suits in 42 short. Goodwill and The Salvation Army usually sell them for less than $20.

If possible but not absolutely necessary, try to find suits in navy or gray WOOL. Avoid acrylics (poylester, etc) and silk for now. Pinstripes (north to south, only!) are okay but be wary of patterns until you learn what works on your body shape.

There's a whole piece you will learn involving canvassed suits vs. fused linings but that won't matter much right now except to say that canvassed is considered better in most instances. Do a search to find out how to determine if a suit is canvassed.

Look in the mirror when you try the suits on and study how the shoulders fit you. You likely don't want anything heavily padded and they should not extend beyond your natural shoulder. This is a VERY hard concept to grasp initially as (if you American), we tend to pay little attention to how the shoulders fit and seem to be mostly concerned about the chest and the gut. Those things can be fixed fairly inexpensively but big shoulders will be a deal breaker when it comes time to have any alterations done. They're not cost effective for most suits. Obviously, there may be exceptions to this.

Next, look at the lapel notches. You can learn about the various lapel styles elsewhere on the forum but just make sure they don't sit too low on your chest. Currently, the higher and closer to your collarbone they are, the better.

Never mind about sleeves that are too long but be careful if they are too short though that doesn't sound likely given your measurements. Sleeves are easy to fix.

There are a variety of opinions on jacket length but basically, CYA (definition #2). If your arms are hanging straight down and the jacket hangs below your downward pointed thumbs, it's too long. How much higher you want it to be is a matter of opinion as well but just remember to CYA.

Once you've found a suit that fits these needs, pay the nice lady at the checkout and take the suit to a local big box suit retailer like K&G or Syms with an alterations department that accepts clothing that DOES NOT HAVE TO BE PURCHASED AT THAT STORE.

• Have them adjust the sleeve length to show a little shirt cuff, maybe 1/8 to 1/4 of an inch.

• Ask for very little or no break in the pants length. Let them take in the crotch to remove any excess fabric in the seat of the pants. You can even have the legs tapered to give you a slimmer look. Bonus!

• Have them adjust the fit of the coat. They can take in the back from the center seam. They can suppress the waist a bit from the side seams. This will probably feel alien to you. If the jacket can be made to feel like it is gently caressing you rather than hanging far away from your body, you're in the ball park.

If you find someone reasonable and bought well, you should come out quite presentable and far ahead of most of the world for under a hundred bucks. Apply lessons learned with this starter suit to better/newer/more expensive finds as you build your wardrobe.

Good luck and happy hunting.

 

[ddonicht]

For your size (which I'm not too far off of) I would stay away from double breasted. Go with a simple 2 button or even a 3 button suit. These will give you a longer look without overdoing it and looking funny like a 4 button would. For now I would keep to solid colors or pinstripes and stay away from chalkstripes (thick stripes) or patterns. It isn't that you can't wear them eventually but get more comfortable wearing suits before you do.

As mentioned before, find something with a more natural shoulder. You don't want to look like you have football pads in. I would also stay away from pants with lots of pleats. A couple are fine but more than that and it starts to make you look wider in my opinion. Also look at the lapels and things. You want a moderate size on them. They shouldn't look like they were left off but they shouldn't look like they will help you get lift off in a brisk wind.

The best thing you can do is find a good tailor/seamstress in your area. I go to someone who has her own business doing alterations and custom work. She doesn't make men's suits from scratch but she can do most other things. I have not had good luck going to the drycleaners and having them alter things nor to the department stores. If you find someone who just does this type of work and has for a while, it is probably a good indicator that they know what they are doing. If possible, get recommendations from other people in the area who might already be going to someone. Then take a couple of simple things to them like a pants for a hem or shirt for the sleeves. Check it out afterward to verify it is the proper length and that any seams look like they are correct on the garment. Once you have found someone good, take a suit to them. As mentioned, they can do a lot more than just adjust the sleeves including making it more fitted which will provide you a slimmer looking.

 

[Saturdays]

My advice? Walk into a boutique, sample the products, tell the clerk you need special assistance and a measuring for a suit.

Get measured up. Try on the suits in your size that you like.

Walk out, go to another boutique, repeat.

Once you select a few favorites and cross out the ill fitting ones - buy what you need when on sale OR head to a department store or clearnace center store (Rack / Off 5th) and splurge.

 

[jc4jax]

I am 5'7" and my opinion is a 3-button suit would make you look slightly more squat than elongated. A lower neckline would help elongate the visual lines so I would go with a 2-button suit preferably. I agree on the double breasted opinion though.

 

[Despos]

Since you are new to buying a suit you first need to be aware of what to look for in how jackets fit your build and body type. Do lots of research by trying on as many jackets/suits as are available to you.
Every maker uses different proportions and cuts and styling to create different looks. These are referred to as silhouettes. The shoulder and the way the sleeve is attached and finished to the jacket is one of the most defining elements. They can be soft or structured, padded or non padded. You want to be aware of your own shoulder shape. Are they broad or narrow and are the sloped or regular or high and square.
If your shoulders are sloped the jacket will hug the neck but not lie on your shoulder at the end of your shoulder. This creates wrinkles and breaking under your arms at the chest and on the back part and would require padding to compensate.
If you have square shoulders the jacket will be tight at the shoulder point and not lie flat against your neck and have rolls of cloth under the collar. This requires recutting the shoulder and maybe the collar to correct this.
The shoulder width of the jacket should be close to the width of your own shoulders. Every jacket's shoulder will fit and look a bit different on you . You want the line of the jacket shoulder to be as parallel to your natural shoulder line as possible. Get the one that compliments you and has the style/look you like and requires the least, if any, alterations. A soft, less padded shoulder will accommodate high square shoulders better than structured, padded shoulders, and will look more natural on you.

Your posture will effect the fit and you want a jacket that looks balanced. From the side view the front should be a bit longer than the back and never the reverse. If you stand with your head forward or stooped the jacket will rise up and flare out in the back and the fronts will fall away. If you stand erect the fronts will hike up and you will get wrinkling across the back. Different makers jackets will have different balance and you want to find what is best, requires the least alteration, for you. It is very difficult if it is possible at all to adjust for posture in a finished garment. Some jackets will be better than others for you when you check the side view.

Each suit has different amounts of ease built into the pattern so you want to try on different sizes. A trim cut 44 may be better than a 42 or you may fit into a 40. You have to try and see what works. Jackets also come in short, regular and long referring to the jacket length and sleeves length. Try on shorts.

If you get the shoulder and the balance right your suit will fit better than the majority out there. When you find the brand that works for you, stick with it. Once you know your size and model of suit that works, you can shop online. It is not that complicated but it takes as much awareness as knowledge. So many suits don't fit and the person isn't aware of it or why it is not fitting.

 

[Sator]

^ Hurray for Chris!

Even better advice: go to him to have a suit made for you.

 

[UltraMagnetical]

chris for president!

 

[eHaberdasher]



I am 5'7" and my opinion is a 3-button suit would make you look slightly more squat than elongated. A lower neckline would help elongate the visual lines so I would go with a 2-button suit preferably. I agree on the double breasted opinion though.

Agree for the most part, but more importantly you don't want the fastening button (middle button on a 3-button, or the top button of a 2-button) to be too high. Ideally just above your navel. A 3 button that rolls off the top button can be just fine if the aforementioned criterion is met.

 

[chogall]

Since you are new to buying a suit you first need to be aware of what to look for in how jackets fit your build and body type. Do lots of research by trying on as many jackets/suits as are available to you.
Every maker uses different proportions and cuts and styling to create different looks. These are referred to as silhouettes. The shoulder and the way the sleeve is attached and finished to the jacket is one of the most defining elements. They can be soft or structured, padded or non padded. You want to be aware of your own shoulder shape. Are they broad or narrow and are the sloped or regular or high and square.
If your shoulders are sloped the jacket will hug the neck but not lie on your shoulder at the end of your shoulder. This creates wrinkles and breaking under your arms at the chest and on the back part and would require padding to compensate.
If you have square shoulders the jacket will be tight at the shoulder point and not lie flat against your neck and have rolls of cloth under the collar. This requires recutting the shoulder and maybe the collar to correct this.
The shoulder width of the jacket should be close to the width of your own shoulders. Every jacket's shoulder will fit and look a bit different on you . You want the line of the jacket shoulder to be as parallel to your natural shoulder line as possible. Get the one that compliments you and has the style/look you like and requires the least, if any, alterations. A soft, less padded shoulder will accommodate high square shoulders better than structured, padded shoulders, and will look more natural on you.

Your posture will effect the fit and you want a jacket that looks balanced. From the side view the front should be a bit longer than the back and never the reverse. If you stand with your head forward or stooped the jacket will rise up and flare out in the back and the fronts will fall away. If you stand erect the fronts will hike up and you will get wrinkling across the back. Different makers jackets will have different balance and you want to find what is best, requires the least alteration, for you. It is very difficult if it is possible at all to adjust for posture in a finished garment. Some jackets will be better than others for you when you check the side view.



Each suit has different amounts of ease built into the pattern so you want to try on different sizes. A trim cut 44 may be better than a 42 or you may fit into a 40. You have to try and see what works. Jackets also come in short, regular and long referring to the jacket length and sleeves length. Try on shorts.

If you get the shoulder and the balance right your suit will fit better than the majority out there. When you find the brand that works for you, stick with it. Once you know your size and model of suit that works, you can shop online. It is not that complicated but it takes as much awareness as knowledge. So many suits don't fit and the person isn't aware of it or why it is not fitting.

It is not easy for short people to admit that they are short.

 

[Digmenow]



It is not easy for short people to admit that they are short.</p>

I would rather wear a Short and look Regular than wear a Regular and look Short.

 

[UltraMagnetical]



I would rather wear a Short and look short than wear a Regular and look Shorter.

ftfy

 

[Digmenow]

Quite possibly my least favorite internet acronym.