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French Tailoring Thread (e.g. Camps de Luca, Cifonelli, Smalto and etc.)

RJman

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Some bad pics of my Camps de Luca orders that arrived recently.
2599396D-B44B-43C0-A977-BF86612F4E87.jpeg
DBB5CAAB-AC05-411C-BC3D-A075978642B3.jpeg
16CDDC5E-0F37-401A-B082-928ED28E2774.jpeg
89AA4F0E-095A-4005-8FA1-B943E424BA03.jpeg
 

RJman

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Just FYI, Camps de Luca will be in New York from June 1-4. I have no commercial connection to the house apart from having been a customer, but thought I'd share - please contact them directly if you wish to make an appointment.
 

Texasmade

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Just FYI, Camps de Luca will be in New York from June 1-4. I have no commercial connection to the house apart from having been a customer, but thought I'd share - please contact them directly if you wish to make an appointment.
This is one of those things that they really need to advertise on their IG or website.
 

RJman

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These jackets are 2 button right? My thinking is that CdL doesn’t really do the 3 roll 2 jackets right? I’m putting in a new order and I think I’ll stick with the regular 2 button.
My orders have all been two button. I don't think the English or French are too familiar with 3-roll-2 or 2.5, although I'm sure CdL could do it if you explain clearly what you want.
 

comrade

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I love those "fishmouth" lapels, but the "rollino" shoulders
are a turn-off. Remind me of the portrayal of the Marquis
de Custine( right) in the film "The Russian Ark":
Custine in the Concert Hall.png
 

RJman

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I love those "fishmouth" lapels, but the "rollino" shoulders
are a turn-off. Remind me of the portrayal of the Marquis
de Custine( right) in the film "The Russian Ark": View attachment 1969649
Fair point - I too can't stand Snow White-style shoulder puffing on men's suits (remember those exaggerated Sciamat (?) shoulders back in like 2012?). All I can say is that they don't look nearly as prominent IRL.
 

comrade

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I recently read an excerpt of your wonderful book, which I will definitely buy,
in Put This On. You show this sublime jacket from Arny's which is not named.
What is the model? Also, in the excerpt you mention numerous lesser imitators
of Old London. I bought 2 pairs of trousers from Arthur et Fox, one about forty
years old, who my tailor at the time in Chicago, a Frenchman who worked at Ultimo,
declared that such quality was unavailable RTW in the US at their price. Sadly,
they no longer fit. I also had 2 blue blazers from Dana Cote D'Azure purchased
from their Chicago store. Aside from pants from Andre Oliver, and a bunch of Sulka
ties, that is the sum of my French clothing





150886302_1838148989685496_5457264084629101859_n.jpg
 

RJman

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I recently read an excerpt of your wonderful book, which I will definitely buy,
in Put This On. You show this sublime jacket from Arny's which is not named.
What is the model? Also, in the excerpt you mention numerous lesser imitators
of Old London. I bought 2 pairs of trousers from Arthur et Fox, one about forty
years old, who my tailor at the time in Chicago, a Frenchman who worked at Ultimo,
declared that such quality was unavailable RTW in the US at their price. Sadly,
they no longer fit. I also had 2 blue blazers from Dana Cote D'Azure purchased
from their Chicago store. Aside from pants from Andre Oliver, and a bunch of Sulka
ties, that is the sum of my French clothing





View attachment 1971725
Thanks for your kind words. I think Put This On added the pictures. At a guess, it might be the Norton model, but Arnys did dozens of variations on the 3/4 length coat like that. It’s been interesting to see secondhand Arnys prices shoot up as people invent the legend. Today many different shops in Paris take inspiration from the Arnys styles with their own versions of eccentric coats like that. The most faithful executions are at Chato Lufsen, who also sells signed copies of my book, for full disclosure.

Quality for price is usually not a French thing. I know that the pants brand Bernard Zins relaunched that might have interesting stuff. The thing about imitators of Old England is that an imitation of an imitation of le style anglais usually results in stuff that is boring af. Old England was interesting for the incredible building and bringing together a lot of stuff under one exquisite roof. A Japanese company bought the name and continues to have an Old England shop in Japan but the shop and the merchandise look unremarkable outside of that old Paris palace. The Paris shop itself became a Bucherer watch shop, not sure what it is now.
 

comrade

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Thanks for your kind words. I think Put This On added the pictures. At a guess, it might be the Norton model, but Arnys did dozens of variations on the 3/4 length coat like that. It’s been interesting to see secondhand Arnys prices shoot up as people invent the legend. Today many different shops in Paris take inspiration from the Arnys styles with their own versions of eccentric coats like that. The most faithful executions are at Chato Lufsen, who also sells signed copies of my book, for full disclosure.

Quality for price is usually not a French thing. I know that the pants brand Bernard Zins relaunched that might have interesting stuff. The thing about imitators of Old England is that an imitation of an imitation of le style anglais usually results in stuff that is boring af. Old England was interesting for the incredible building and bringing together a lot of stuff under one exquisite roof. A Japanese company bought the name and continues to have an Old England shop in Japan but the shop and the merchandise look unremarkable outside of that old Paris palace. The Paris shop itself became a Bucherer watch shop, not sure what it is now.
I visited Old england in '94 having arrived after a few days in London to
visit my daughter, who was studying in Paris. My impression at the time
was that it was a beautiful store with merchandise that I had just seen in London, including actual British brands.
 

comrade

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Being someone who remembers working steam engines that argument will draw much laughter from my wife.

My son could inherit; my grandsons are all inches taller than I am.
Being someone who remembers working steam engines that argument will draw much laughter from my wife.

My son could inherit; my grandsons are all inches taller than I am.
I traveled between New York and Richmond VA with my mother
and sister on a steam train when I was about 3. It is one of my earliest
memories.
 

dawei94

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Does anyone know the latest pricing for a 2pc and 3pc bespoke suit from Cifonelli? I last placed an order 5 years ago, so not sure how that has changed
 

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