French Tailoring Thread (e.g. Camps de Luca, Cifonelli, Smalto and etc.)

[poorsod]

It would definitely be worth asking them directly if they can fit on or take orders for Atelier de Luca. A friend who is one of the best dressed guys around, Paul, wears a lot of the atelier stuff. I am à deeply insecure person so always ordered the OG Camps de Luca line but he looks great.

Yeah I met Paul from Luxembourg a number of years ago and he spoke highly of CdL. CdL offered to let me pick up my Atelier de Luca order during this trip but sadly I’ll be out of town. So I imagine there’s a good chance they’ll offer the AdL option too.

The AdL basted fitting stage seemed to me like a regular bespoke fitting. I don’t mind the machine work since it saves me so much $$$. I’ll have to see how I feel about it after I’ve lived with it for a while.

 

[Old Red]

The other day I mentioned to the wife I was thinking of going to NYC to begin fitting for a De Luca suit with a follow up in Paris. She was fine until I mentioned the price; I think I heard her teeth grinding. This morning she said she was okay with it. I won't do it yet but I will be stopping with her into the atelier next month to get her used to the idea that it could happen.

 

[Texasmade]

The other day I mentioned to the wife I was thinking of going to NYC to begin fitting for a De Luca suit with a follow up in Paris. She was fine until I mentioned the price; I think I heard her teeth grinding. This morning she said she was okay with it. I won't do it yet but I will be stopping with her into the atelier next month to get her used to the idea that it could happen.

Did you tell her it’s an investment that will last a lifetime as long as you don’t gain or lose too much weight?

 

[Old Red]

Did you tell her it’s an investment that will last a lifetime as long as you don’t gain or lose too much weight?

Being someone who remembers working steam engines that argument will draw much laughter from my wife.

My son could inherit; my grandsons are all inches taller than I am.

 

[poorsod]

Did you tell her it’s an investment that will last a lifetime as long as you don’t gain or lose too much weight?

My wardrobe is a strong reason I constantly exercise. I can’t afford to buy new clothes.

 

[RJman]

My wardrobe is a strong reason I constantly exercise. I can’t afford to buy new clothes.

I feel this acutely.

 

[Old Red]

I finally got through the whole thread. Really enjoyed it. A question, is the half cutaway collar quite common? More so than I see on this (the west) side of the Atlantic?

I wish we could see more discussion on shirting.

 

[Texasmade]

My wardrobe is a strong reason I constantly exercise. I can’t afford to buy new clothes.

I feel your pain.

 

[RJman]

I finally got through the whole thread. Really enjoyed it. A question, is the half cutaway collar quite common? More so than I see on this (the west) side of the Atlantic?

I wish we could see more discussion on shirting.

Not sure what you mean by half cutaway, but the col francais is basically a normal English spread collar with a lower profile, so nothing cut away. If by shirting you mean shirt cloth (the correct meaning of shirting), there have been threads about that stuff. Shirtmaking is something that can be discussed on this thread inasmuch as it relates to the Paris shirtmakers.

 

[poorsod]

I finally got through the whole thread. Really enjoyed it. A question, is the half cutaway collar quite common? More so than I see on this (the west) side of the Atlantic?

I wish we could see more discussion on shirting.

I think this post is good for Parisian shirt makers.

French Tailoring Thread (e.g. Camps de Luca, Cifonelli, Smalto and etc.)

I heard good things also about Lucca and Daniel Levy but being halfway Paris and Naples is a no brainer in terms of shirts.

www.styleforum.net

I had some shirts made by Mary Frittolini and I consider them the best shirts I own. I had Geneva duplicate the collar shape. I like a high spread collar with long points. The other detail to Marys shirts is the curve made at the elbow that I have not seen anyone else replicate. I think she cuts a wide elbow and narrows it at the wrist with 3+4 pleats. Perhaps that’s the way they made sleeves at Lanvin (She trained with someone who used to work there).

 

[Nico]

Talking about Parisian shirtmakers, has anyone tried Lauwers, now via Smalto? Does he travel at all?

 

[RJman]

Talking about Parisian shirtmakers, has anyone tried Lauwers, now via Smalto? Does he travel at all?

He is my shirtmaker and the best currently working that I have used. I don't think Smalto travels at all unless you're some kind of potentate who flies the tailor or shirtmaker over.

 

[poorsod]

I picked up my Atelier de Luca coat and I like it. The silhouette is quite different from anything else I have (Steed, NSM, Chan, Formosa). The combination of fish mouth lapel, slight positive lapel belly, strong shoulder and built chest gives a more angular shape (vs say Steed that is a bit more round).

 

[poorsod]

AdL with Milanese button hole, cran de Luca, cigarette shoulder

 

[Texasmade]

View attachment 1889267

AdL with Milanese button hole, cran de Luca, cigarette shoulder

Love the shoulder with the fish mouth lapel.