Custom White's Boots ... Thoughts?

[Netvine]

on the outside of the inner part of the heel stack, as you have marked them 'red' in the photo... i measure approximately:
just shy of 1/2" or 12mm on standard heel Semi dress and Bounty Hunter 430 mini-vib
and a bit more than 5/8" or 16mm on my (+1/4" heel add) Smoke Jumper/Farmer Rancher. 430 mini-vib


I'm certainly not the guy to do it, but one day i hope someone goes through this thread and collates it as was done in that original reddit thread by cathpah that helped so many of us.There certainly is a mountain of new information since then.

I think a Much better way to look at it (measured at the back from top of midsole to bottom of heel cap) would be 1.50" for a single midsole standard heel.

 

[discomute]

Anybody have pics of Brown HH SD's with a medallion toe cap and leather or double leather sole? Thinking I'm gonna go with this build as a dress shoe alternative.

One thing that was on my mind with this build, and of course totally up to you. I note sambam mentioned that brown main streets can be made with brown sole thread. Which means, White's have brown sole thread. If I was getting this build I'd probably ask for it and see what they say. It would look much dressier than white thread. But that's just my preference, may not be yours.

 

[Legal Eagles]

Which means, White's have brown sole thread. If I was getting this build I'd probably ask for it and see what they say. It would look much dressier than white thread.

That is an interesting thought... White's has for decades used white "9 strand Irish linen" thread for their boots. This thread has been a selling point for White's and contributes to the durability of the boot. I know technology marches on and for fire boots there are new threads like Technora... but...

The Main Street boot is GYW, and may or may not use the Irish Linen thread... and the brown thread may or may not have the same properties as the Irish linen thread. If I were spending the money for a pair of hand welted HH Semi Dress... and I was asking for a different color thread, I would make sure the specs on the brown were the same as the specs on the Irish Linen. I know I sound like an old curmudgeon, but new is not always better!

 

[blue collar]

Hey guys

This is my first time venturing into Whites boots. I have many Alden and Carmina shoes and boots and im hoping you guys could give me a rough idea on what size/width I'd be on the "55 Arch-Ease" last. I know to size down .5 but how is the width? is the D roomy or should I move up to the EE? I have a narrow heel and wide ball on my feet.

The following are sizes and last that fit me well:

Alden Barrie - 11.5D (snug perfect fit)
Alden Van - 11.5D (very snug in the width)
Alden Trubalance - 11.5D (perfect fit)
Alden Grant- 11.5E (good fit)
Carmina rain and Inca- 11EU/12 us Perfect fit
Viberg 2030 - 11.5 (Too tight in the width)

I tried looking through the thread but there are too many posts.

Thanks!

 

[Legal Eagles]

Hey guys

This is my first time venturing into Whites boots. I have many Alden and Carmina shoes and boots and im hoping you guys could give me a rough idea on what size/width I'd be on the "55 Arch-Ease" last. I know to size down .5 but how is the width? is the D roomy or should I move up to the EE? I have a narrow heel and wide ball on my feet.

The following are sizes and last that fit me well:

Alden Barrie - 11.5D (snug perfect fit)
Alden Van - 11.5D (very snug in the width)
Alden Trubalance - 11.5D (perfect fit)
Alden Grant- 11.5E (good fit)
Carmina rain and Inca- 11EU/12 us Perfect fit
Viberg 2030 - 11.5 (Too tight in the width)

I tried looking through the thread but there are too many posts.

Thanks!

You have a good start by knowing your size in other lasts... Kyle at Bakers can work with that. You still might consider sending measurements or getting fitted in person... and remember every foot is different, and are you sure the 55 last is best for you?

That being said, YMMV, but here is my comparison of some of the lasts above vs. White's 55 for my feet.

I am:
11.5 EE in White's 55
11.5E in Trubalance (Trubalance is a wide last in the ball by nature - wider than the 55)
11.5EE in Barrie
11 in Viberg 2030, but like you it was tight and never felt quite right

I have a narrow heel and wide ball (duck feet) and the 38 Swing works better for me than the 55, albeit at the expense of aesthetics.

Every foot is different... a try on or in person sizing is your best bet. Anything else is guesswork, educated guesswork perhaps, but guesswork nonetheless.

 

[hoppy_IPA]

Anybody have pics of Brown HH SD's with a medallion toe cap and leather or double leather sole? Thinking I'm gonna go with this build as a dress shoe alternative.

leather soles are fantastic, here's my pair

 

[Legal Eagles]

leather soles are fantastic, here's my pair

I find it interesting that White's cut a channel in the bottom of your leather sole for the stitches, but left mine on top of the sole. I prefer the way they did yours, but I suppose it makes little difference. Perhaps it is because mine were double leather and too thick for the channel cutter... who knows.

For everyone out there with leather soles, were your stitches in channels or left on the surface? Curious...

 

[linafelt]

Hey guys

This is my first time venturing into Whites boots. I have many Alden and Carmina shoes and boots and im hoping you guys could give me a rough idea on what size/width I'd be on the "55 Arch-Ease" last. I know to size down .5 but how is the width? is the D roomy or should I move up to the EE? I have a narrow heel and wide ball on my feet.

The following are sizes and last that fit me well:

Alden Barrie - 11.5D (snug perfect fit)
Alden Van - 11.5D (very snug in the width)
Alden Trubalance - 11.5D (perfect fit)
Alden Grant- 11.5E (good fit)
Carmina rain and Inca- 11EU/12 us Perfect fit
Viberg 2030 - 11.5 (Too tight in the width)

I tried looking through the thread but there are too many posts.

Thanks!

I’m going to say try 11.5E. But definitely try on if you can before ordering. Amazon has some returnable SDs listed, though not sure what sizes.

 

[discomute]

Are there rules about what sort of shoe trees I should buy? I was thinking of getting these shoe trees

I presume boots don't come with them?

 

[Legal Eagles]

Are there rules about what sort of shoe trees I should buy? I was thinking of getting these shoe trees

I presume boots don't come with them?

The boots do not come with trees.
Any tree will work as long as it is cedar.
I used to get two pairs for $30 at my local Allen Edmonds, but they went out of business.
The best deal I have found on simple shoe trees is here:

Amazon.com: CEDAR SHOE TREE WITH SINGLE TUBE - 6PKS : Clothing, Shoes & Jewelry

Buy CEDAR SHOE TREE WITH SINGLE TUBE - 6PKS and other Shoe & Boot Trees at Amazon.com. Our wide selection is eligible for free shipping and free returns.

www.amazon.com

All shoe trees are pretty much the same in how they function... you don't need anything fancy.

 

[miggyramone]

I was wondering this too. I'm probably overthinking it but I feel like the arch on White's and Nicks pushes the shoe trees to a angle, putting pressure on the instep. Maybe, I should exerpeiment with small sized shoe trees than my current ones.

 

[Woodtroll]

Another newbie question or two...

I'm getting ready to order a pair of packers that are going to be more social/casual than work boots, and I'm wondering about the "close trim" option that I see folks posting sometimes. I haven't found amy comparison photos in my searching, and was wondering how much of the excess welt the "close trim" did away with? Does the boot loose any potential structural integrity when this is done? Can anyone post photos showing the difference, please?

Does White's predictably offer a Black Friday discount on orders (in other words, should I wait a month to order, if it's a sure bet I will save some money)?

Thank you!
Regan

 

[John Frum]

@Woodtroll
White's and/or Baker's traditionally have Black Friday sales. I'll post two pics for you, then discuss in another reply.

 

[John Frum]

@Woodtroll
The top are 12FF Swing last, bottom are Northwest last 12EE. Note the standard trim gives a "pie plate" appearance to the soles on these large sizes. I borrow "pie plate" as a descriptor from the excellent Reddit tutorial. IMO, the pics of smaller sizes look better with standard trim, they lose the snow shoe appearance the large sizes have.

IIRC Standard trim will allow more rebuilds over time than close trim. Opinion, I'm not a smokejumper so I won't need many rebuilds.

You could do what I did, order standard trim and if you don't like it, have it changed at resole.

 

[John Frum]

Another thought, the standard trim boots are actual work boots. They give me added protection for the toes. I walk in concrete, gravel, earth/mud, climb stairs, ladders, have to jog short distances in them sometimes, etc. The brown horse hide are strictly casual.