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Woodtroll

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@Woodtroll
The top are 12FF Swing last, bottom are Northwest last 12EE. Note the standard trim gives a "pie plate" appearance to the soles on these large sizes. I borrow "pie plate" as a descriptor from the excellent Reddit tutorial. IMO, the pics of smaller sizes look better with standard trim, they lose the snow shoe appearance the large sizes have.

IIRC Standard trim will allow more rebuilds over time than close trim. Opinion, I'm not a smokejumper so I won't need many rebuilds.

You could do what I did, order standard trim and if you don't like it, have it changed at resole.
Another thought, the standard trim boots are actual work boots. They give me added protection for the toes. I walk in concrete, gravel, earth/mud, climb stairs, ladders, have to jog short distances in them sometimes, etc. The brown horse hide are strictly casual.


Thank you very much, John, the pictures help a lot. That "pie pan" look you talk about is what I'm trying to avoid on these boots. I'm curious how the construction differs to allow for just the single row of stitching?

And you're right - on all my Drew's and White's work boots that receive harder use, that welt gets battered down and the vamp widens out, and the welt ends up looking much more narrow in time. I don't expect this particular pair to receive that kind of heavy use, so the close trim interests me.

I saw a year or two ago that White's ran a 25% off Black Friday sale - is that discount typical?
 

John Frum

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My experience is I always order between sales and order the wrong size and get to ship them back and forth a dozen times. /s
Mostly /s, anyhow.

Honestly I don't remember. I saved the nickels to get the HH semi dress and checked Baker's once a week until they went on sale.
 

Woodtroll

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My experience is I always order between sales and order the wrong size and get to ship them back and forth a dozen times. /s
Mostly /s, anyhow.

Honestly I don't remember. I saved the nickels to get the HH semi dress and checked Baker's once a week until they went on sale.

Yeah, that's usually the way my luck goes too - I feel for you! ;) Thanks again for your help.
 

Netvine

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@Woodtroll
The top are 12FF Swing last, bottom are Northwest last 12EE. Note the standard trim gives a "pie plate" appearance to the soles on these large sizes. I borrow "pie plate" as a descriptor from the excellent Reddit tutorial. IMO, the pics of smaller sizes look better with standard trim, they lose the snow shoe appearance the large sizes have.

IIRC Standard trim will allow more rebuilds over time than close trim. Opinion, I'm not a smokejumper so I won't need many rebuilds.

You could do what I did, order standard trim and if you don't like it, have it changed at resole.
What are the details and build specs on your black boots? They look comfortable and useful!
 

PaintSplattered

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I find it interesting that White's cut a channel in the bottom of your leather sole for the stitches, but left mine on top of the sole. I prefer the way they did yours, but I suppose it makes little difference. Perhaps it is because mine were double leather and too thick for the channel cutter... who knows.

For everyone out there with leather soles, were your stitches in channels or left on the surface? Curious... View attachment 1266797 View attachment 1266796

Double leather soles on my boots, and the stitches were left on the surface.
 

John Frum

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What are the details and build specs on your black boots? They look comfortable and useful!

NW last 12EE
Black dress
6"
Sierra unit sole
-One pair is soft toe close trim (White's omitted celastic, I just kept them). If the toe collapses at all they'll have to go back for celastic
-Other pair is double celastic standard trim
I wear these with extra light socks.
The black Swings are 6" black dress, murdered out w/700 sole.
 
Last edited:

discomute

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Anyone got photos of brown voyager boots? I've searched the entire thread. Also are they required to be lined?
 

chicken1616

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The "standard trim" type welt absolutely protects the vamp of the boot better. I would imagine theoretically it is more durable due to the double stitching, although for casual wear that probably does not matter.
 

miggyramone

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Where does White's get there Brittish Tan leather? I saw a guy on reddit refer to his SD's as British Tan Domain. On White's website they say it's CXL though.
 

Legal Eagles

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Anything that is standard trim will be made close trim once you get a resole.
Is this mandatory? I had heard this, but never confirmed it... what if I like the standard trim... that would be a bummer!
 

PACostag

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Where does White's get there Brittish Tan leather? I saw a guy on reddit refer to his SD's as British Tan Domain. On White's website they say it's CXL though.
their "British tan" is simply CXL from Horween. They also have a "tan domain," but i'm not sure where it's sourced from
 

miggyramone

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That's! I don't think I've seen British tan cxl before. I have seen English tan Dublin, which I hear good things about. Just not a fan of English Tan Dublin's color. The pics of British tan I've seen on Baker's is kinda nice. Looks like a honey brown.
 

Legal Eagles

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their "British tan" is simply CXL from Horween. They also have a "tan domain," but i'm not sure where it's sourced from
I think "Domain" is a trademark of Seidel Tannery.


Great stuff btw, I have a pair of Wesco Oxfords in brown domain.
 

chicken1616

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Is this mandatory? I had heard this, but never confirmed it... what if I like the standard trim... that would be a bummer!
On a related note, when I sent my SD's(close trim) off for a rebuild, lately (to White's), they came back with standard trim. I didn't specify, and I like them with the standard.
I have only had one re-sole done, on a pair of Hathorn Travelers, and it was done by Baker's. Close trim-close trim. I have had three rebuilds.
 

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