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Cashmere Sweater Hierarchy

acconrad

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@Johnny80 what are your thoughts on Malo and Fedeli? I’ve got a Fioroni Duvet and Colombo that I love and looking for another basic lightweight piece. I like lighter weight cashmere in general since I run warm but I have a long torso and arms so curious if they will still have an appealing silhouette
 

ladislav.jancik

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For me it doesnt matter if its made in Scotland China Bangladesh Italy or any...if you provide me with Grade A+ fibre quality, fit, cut, dying process and all of these should be in every garment that you made, in every size, because constancy is very hard these days, even on high end mills, then you are top notch....for now, only Scotland and Italy have all of above
For me just 2 or 3 vertical names still care about constancy.
You wrote:
If you wanted to ask top notch 100% made in Scotland garments
There are just a few...William Lockie is not one of them
Which are those if you don't mind me asking?
 

Johnny80

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@Johnny80 what are your thoughts on Malo and Fedeli? I’ve got a Fioroni Duvet and Colombo that I love and looking for another basic lightweight piece. I like lighter weight cashmere in general since I run warm but I have a long torso and arms so curious if they will still have an appealing silhouette
i would stick with Colombo and Fioroni..but if you saw something from Malo or Fedeli that you dont find on those 2 above mention...then its typical high end Made in Italy garment (doesnt matter if its from Malo or Fedeli) so you wont be disappointed
 

Johnny80

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You wrote:

Which are those if you don't mind me asking?
For me its John Laing and Hawico for cashmere in general
WL for shawl cathegory
Even if they are not vertical makers Malloch's for their lambswool for the right price and Colhays
Also for the price , Johnstons of Elgin and Npeal ( i would recommend Npeal over Pringle of Scotland)
 
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12 ply probably you are better to call them and make for you
If 4ply is still not heavy enough you should first try their 6ply
This is also available as MTO

Or another good shawl heavy weight 8ply
The Colhay's ones are definitely on the short list though their Large in a few colors are OOS. I do find them, along with the WL, the best looking of the bunch.
 

Spaghettimatt

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Does anyone know if Lockie does true MTM? Like can you specify body and sleeve lengths, or is it just MTO smaller sizes that aren't normally stocked?
 

ianskelly

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For me its John Laing and Hawico for cashmere in general
WL for shawl cathegory
Even if they are not vertical makers Malloch's for their lambswool for the right price and Colhays
Also for the price , Johnstons of Elgin and Npeal ( i would recommend Npeal over Pringle of Scotland)
I liked the look of Hawico but it is £475 for a 1 ply, I believe John laing are made my Barrie , not sure of anywhere that sells John laing though and when I have seen them
They have been suspiciously cheap
 

Johnny80

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I liked the look of Hawico but it is £475 for a 1 ply, I believe John laing are made my Barrie , not sure of anywhere that sells John laing though and when I have seen them
They have been suspiciously cheap
Yes, John Laing is made by Barrie on different quality and even different measurements
 

ianskelly

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Yes, John Laing is made by Barrie on different quality and even different measurements
So have had the chance to compare John laing against Barrie / lockies/ Colhays ? I only have experience with lockie so would be interested to know how they compare
 

happydayz1

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I have cashmere knitwear from all three, but of varying weights (1, 2 and 4 ply for WL, 2 ply for Colhays and 3 ply John Laing) so I’m not sure how fair the comparison will be.

Notwithstanding this, from a hand feel and construction / finishing point of view I’d personally rank the John Laing as the best. There is an extra level of attention to detail in the finishing and the cashmere feels slightly drier and more substantial in the hand but I wouldn’t hold myself out as an expert.

That said, I don’t think you can go too far wrong with any of these knitters.
 

DorianGreen

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Whilst I understand the need to establish a quality ranking for cashmere, which is also the subject of this thread, I also think that we sometimes are too focused, almost obsessed on this aspect and lose sight of the style, which is equally important, if not more. I certainly prefer a very good cashmere on a good-looking, well fitting and accurately made sweater over a top notch cashmere on a poor looking and fitting, sloppily made one (admitttedly, a quite unlikely possibility, as the best material is also worked in the best way, of course). Furtherly some criteria are rather subjective: softness, for example, could be excessive, to decrement of the shape and durability, and in any case I prefer by far the dry and tough hand of the old Ballantynes to the fluffiness of some current knits.
 

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