Cashmere Sweater Hierarchy

[AnotherJR]

I was wondering if somebody more experienced in the construction of sweaters could help me out here. I got this Fedeli sweater for a great price, but it’s missing some knitting at the waist line. I’m wondering if this is a serious enough issue to return it since the threads around it are under more stress, or if I can get away with doing nothing or a simple reinforcement. I should note that the waist ribbing is barely stretched during use. Thanks in advance.

Also, if Johnny happens to see this, I figure I might as well ask what the difference between the standard Fioroni duvet cashmere and the duvet exclusive is. I have both and they are both great, but the standard duvet is cheaper despite seeming a little thicker to me, so it made me curious. And also thank you for your consistent and quality information. It's helped me out a lot before.

 

[double00]

I was wondering if somebody more experienced in the construction of sweaters could help me out here. I got this Fedeli sweater for a great price, but it’s missing some knitting at the waist line. I’m wondering if this is a serious enough issue to return it since the threads around it are under more stress, or if I can get away with doing nothing or a simple reinforcement. I should note that the waist ribbing is barely stretched during use. Thanks in advance.

Also, if Johnny happens to see this, I figure I might as well ask what the difference between the standard Fioroni duvet cashmere and the duvet exclusive is. I have both and they are both great, but the standard duvet is cheaper despite seeming a little thicker to me, so it made me curious. And also thank you for your consistent and quality information. It's helped me out a lot before.
View attachment 2074021

a manufacturing flaw . they switch to a ribber either by transfer or they add the second device , and then the carriage missed the stitches where the gap is ( a pretty common machine problem to switch but , for me , this would be unacceptable and i would back up the work ) and they got knitted onto the adjacent stitches , but the operator didn't back it up when they fixed it so it's knitted in . factory garment i guess .

if it's raveling send it back . if it's not and you could live with it i think it would be fine as is but if it starts to abrade or something i think there are options . lmk if you want to chop that up otherwise be ok with it

 

[AnotherJR]

a manufacturing flaw . they switch to a ribber either by transfer or they add the second device , and then the carriage missed the stitches where the gap is ( a pretty common machine problem to switch but , for me , this would be unacceptable and i would back up the work ) and they got knitted onto the adjacent stitches , but the operator didn't back it up when they fixed it so it's knitted in . factory garment i guess .

if it's raveling send it back . if it's not and you could live with it i think it would be fine as is but if it starts to abrade or something i think there are options . lmk if you want to chop that up otherwise be ok with it

Thanks for the insight. I'll take a close look to see if there is any immediate unraveling risk. If not, I'll probably just live with it since it's hard to pass up fedeli pushing double digits. And yes, it was a factory garment, though from a third party.

 

[Johnny80]

I was wondering if somebody more experienced in the construction of sweaters could help me out here. I got this Fedeli sweater for a great price, but it’s missing some knitting at the waist line. I’m wondering if this is a serious enough issue to return it since the threads around it are under more stress, or if I can get away with doing nothing or a simple reinforcement. I should note that the waist ribbing is barely stretched during use. Thanks in advance.

Also, if Johnny happens to see this, I figure I might as well ask what the difference between the standard Fioroni duvet cashmere and the duvet exclusive is. I have both and they are both great, but the standard duvet is cheaper despite seeming a little thicker to me, so it made me curious. And also thank you for your consistent and quality information. It's helped me out a lot before.
View attachment 2074021

That makes the garment impossible and totally not recommended for machine wash, only gentile hand wash with baby shampoo if you will wash it often or cashmere/wool shampoo if you wash it once a year or less often than that. I dont have access on your duvets but if i have to guess probably that exclusive is their 2 or higher ply that are twisted together on an different angle. If its just 1 ply then this is not it since what im talking about require at least 2 ply

 

[DorianGreen]

I was wondering if somebody more experienced in the construction of sweaters could help me out here. I got this Fedeli sweater for a great price, but it’s missing some knitting at the waist line. I’m wondering if this is a serious enough issue to return it since the threads around it are under more stress, or if I can get away with doing nothing or a simple reinforcement. I should note that the waist ribbing is barely stretched during use. Thanks in advance.

Also, if Johnny happens to see this, I figure I might as well ask what the difference between the standard Fioroni duvet cashmere and the duvet exclusive is. I have both and they are both great, but the standard duvet is cheaper despite seeming a little thicker to me, so it made me curious. And also thank you for your consistent and quality information. It's helped me out a lot before.
View attachment 2074021

That's probably the reason why you got a great price. It would really bother me so I would return it, but of course you can live with it.

 

[DorianGreen]

I took a look at H.N. White, it seems a good substantial cardigan, 12ply cashmere, horn buttons, made in Scotland. Very attractive price at about €810.

 

[Johnny80]

I took a look at H.N. White, it seems a good substantial cardigan, 12ply cashmere, horn buttons, made in Scotland. Very attractive price at about €810.

View attachment 2074039

i would buy it until is out of stock for your size

 

[ppk]

i would buy it until is out of stock for your size

What are your thoughts on the lambswool version? It's 6-ply. I like the camel color.

 

[Johnny80]

What are your thoughts on the lambswool version? It's 6-ply. I like the camel color.

i also chose camel colour on lambswool garments...its my preferred shade of camel

 

[DorianGreen]

@johnny80, did you ever analyse old cashmere knits, in particular from Ballantynes? How do they compare with the current ones? Why do they feel so much more consistent? I suppose because less processed and finished, as well as more tightly knit, but would like to know your opinion.

 

[Bespoke DJP]

@johnny80, did you ever analyse old cashmere knits, in particular from Ballantynes? How do they compare with the current ones? Why do they feel so much more consistent? I suppose because less processed and finished, as well as more tightly knit, but would like to know your opinion.

Great question my friend!

May I extend your supposition to the quality of the raw material? You have already discussed about the "democratization" of cashmere and its inevitable consequences...


Best,

Dimitris

 

[Bespoke DJP]

I took a look at H.N. White, it seems a good substantial cardigan, 12ply cashmere, horn buttons, made in Scotland. Very attractive price at about €810.

View attachment 2074039

Some time ago, I checked their site and I would bet that their sleeveless cardigans are William Lockie re-branded New Lambswool (Geelong) ones; everything is absolutely the same.

That said, and considering that vendors (on-line or brick-and-mortar ones) don't want to bother with a lot of makers in the same garment category, especially if they are satisfied with one, can we assume that this is a William Lockie-made piece of knitwear?


Best,

Dimitris

 

[Johnny80]

@johnny80, did you ever analyse old cashmere knits, in particular from Ballantynes? How do they compare with the current ones? Why do they feel so much more consistent? I suppose because less processed and finished, as well as more tightly knit, but would like to know your opinion.

well...not so much since vintage/old stuff are not under the current laws
In the old days you can have an so called 100% lambswool made in reality from 80% lambswool and "others"
While, makers such Ballantynes care about quality before profit, on pure cashmere i am sure they were all fine and consistent, the race for microns for cashmere and wool back then just started and stuff from under 15.5µ were not consistent at all, today is much better because of the laws and from the profit margins(ironic isnt it?)What i mean by that:
Old days if you have a bunch of very fine cashmere the makers would place into several garments blended with pure 18-19µ cashmere to have a raw garment feel under 17µ. Nowadays that raw finer material is even more rare because there is a lot more production , the benefit is by law they have to say the composition and from profit margins they make kid cashmere/baby cashmere at a higher price but you end up with an 100% finer material that doesnt need to be over process to reach that level of softness especially on Italian makers side...no wonder Italians ,from my point of view, have the "monopoly" for the finer cashmere while Scotland remain with pure cashmere in general (Colombo is out of this question because they grown care spun make etc everything in house) They also outsource some of their cashmere/wool left to the Chinese and for people who want their fabrics/patterns

 

[Johnny80]

Bottom line is this:
When you see an old Ballantynes in perfect shape there is one of two reasons:
1) It was proper cared and can be 100% cashmere (just an example of material)
2) It was not proper cared but
-still in perfect shape that means is not 100% cashmere but blend with silk or some synthetic to make that garment durable enough to pass the test of time and low manipulation (otherwise cannot be because of the laws of physics and the limits of natural fibres )
-not in that original/perfect shape but it is/was from 100% cashmere
So an old Ballantynes in great shape and proper cared is still one of the todays best garments, in my Grade A+ segment

 

[DorianGreen]

Some time ago, I checked their site and I would bet that their sleeveless cardigans are William Lockie re-branded New Lambswool (Geelong) ones; everything is absolutely the same.

That said, and considering that vendors (on-line or brick-and-mortar ones) don't want to bother with a lot of makers in the same garment category, especially if they are satisfied with one, can we assume that this is a William Lockie-made piece of knitwear?


Best,

Dimitris

Possible, my friend. Personally, I would so much appreciate if the retailers would prefer a maker's label instead of their own, or, as in the old days, one which unites both (i.e. William Lockie for H.N. White). Or, at least, if they would reveal their sources.