David Reeves
Distinguished Member
- Joined
- Feb 16, 2009
- Messages
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Portlandia.
STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.
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How does one take a piss with those pants?
Doesn't look like these pants are cut for a belt. There's only one belt loop there to support the extended waistband.
I like this one but am still confused as to why Italians insist on trousers cut for a belt with clip-on braces. I get it that if you're just a normal stylish Italian dude then it's sprezzy but if you're a bespoke tailor and you cut your own pents, ostensibly you can cut them without loops for belts and, you know, buttons for real ******* braces. Any devil-may-care affection that you experiment with has to look like you at least tried not to give a ****. If you try too hard to not give a *******'s worse than over-giving-a-****...I guess that's what I'm saying.
I like this one but am still confused as to why Italians insist on trousers cut for a belt with clip-on braces. I get it that if you're just a normal stylish Italian dude then it's sprezzy but if you're a bespoke tailor and you cut your own pents, ostensibly you can cut them without loops for belts and, you know, buttons for real ******* braces. Any devil-may-care affection that you experiment with has to look like you at least tried not to give a ****. If you try too hard to not give a *******'s worse than over-giving-a-****...I guess that's what I'm saying.
If you try too hard to not give a *******'s worse than over-giving-a-****...I guess that's what I'm saying.
As mentioned by Pasha, I think that there's just one belt loop, to hold the extended waistband tab.
However, I certainly agree with what you say about wearing clip-on braces with bespoke trousers - if you're wearing a $1000 pair of bespoke trousers, why on earth would you wear clip-on braces?
I realise that it's subjective, but to me at least, it looks silly. I know that it's also something that Ethan and Jake from The Armoury have done previously with their own Ambrosi pents, and I didn't understand it then, either.
I agree entirely. A lot of the sprezzatura that we see in #menswear photos is really "faux-sprezz" as the people are clearly giving a **** while trying to look as though they don't. The whole "tie pen!s" (longer tail than blade) or the tail coming in front of or beside the blade in the tie knot thing is another egregious example.
Although, having said that, if that's what floats your boat and if you enjoy deliberately looking dishevelled or mismatched, then that's fine.
I agree entirely. A lot of the sprezzatura that we see in #menswear photos is really "faux-sprezz" as the people are clearly giving a **** while trying to look as though they don't. The whole "tie pen!s" (longer tail than blade) or the tail coming in front of or beside the blade in the tie knot thing is another egregious example.
Although, having said that, if that's what floats your boat and if you enjoy deliberately looking dishevelled or mismatched, then that's fine.
Something not commented on often by men who love classic style: the surprising number of instances of unusually short ties in the first half of the 20th century (even on men typically trotted out as icons of classic men's clothing).
When it comes to tie penis, I practice the Manton rule, which is that up to 1" of penis is still tasteful.
You are correct. It was a universal preference because men generally wore vests and/ or kept their jackets on and closed. Until about post WWII, shirts were thought of as near underwear and not something to be exposed. Ties were shorter because they didn't need to be longer.Well,
Based on what I've seen, I wouldn't call it a surprising number of unusually short ties. I'd call it a fairly universal preference for shorter ties. 1940's and earlier, seems like half the time there are several inches between belt and tie, in addition to the higher waistbands/rise. Maybe this is more common in military uniform.
I can attest to the ease and comfort of clip-ons.