Ambrosi Napoli

[David Reeves]

Portlandia.

 

[emptym]

I wore sailor pants in high school for the Sea Explorers. This was the late '80s, so it was the bell bottoms that we liked the least about them.

 

[CaymanS]



How does one take a piss with those pants?

I like this one but am still confused as to why Italians insist on trousers cut for a belt with clip-on braces. I get it that if you're just a normal stylish Italian dude then it's sprezzy but if you're a bespoke tailor and you cut your own pents, ostensibly you can cut them without loops for belts and, you know, buttons for real ******* braces. Any devil-may-care affection that you experiment with has to look like you at least tried not to give a ****. If you try too hard to not give a *******'s worse than over-giving-a-****...I guess that's what I'm saying.

 

[Pasha]



I like this one but am still confused as to why Italians insist on trousers cut for a belt with clip-on braces. I get it that if you're just a normal stylish Italian dude then it's sprezzy but if you're a bespoke tailor and you cut your own pents, ostensibly you can cut them without loops for belts and, you know, buttons for real ******* braces. Any devil-may-care affection that you experiment with has to look like you at least tried not to give a ****. If you try too hard to not give a *******'s worse than over-giving-a-****...I guess that's what I'm saying.

Doesn't look like these pants are cut for a belt. There's only one belt loop there to support the extended waistband.

 

[Journeyman]



I like this one but am still confused as to why Italians insist on trousers cut for a belt with clip-on braces. I get it that if you're just a normal stylish Italian dude then it's sprezzy but if you're a bespoke tailor and you cut your own pents, ostensibly you can cut them without loops for belts and, you know, buttons for real ******* braces. Any devil-may-care affection that you experiment with has to look like you at least tried not to give a ****. If you try too hard to not give a *******'s worse than over-giving-a-****...I guess that's what I'm saying.

As mentioned by Pasha, I think that there's just one belt loop, to hold the extended waistband tab.

However, I certainly agree with what you say about wearing clip-on braces with bespoke trousers - if you're wearing a $1000 pair of bespoke trousers, why on earth would you wear clip-on braces?

I realise that it's subjective, but to me at least, it looks silly. I know that it's also something that Ethan and Jake from The Armoury have done previously with their own Ambrosi pents, and I didn't understand it then, either.

If you try too hard to not give a *******'s worse than over-giving-a-****...I guess that's what I'm saying.

I agree entirely. A lot of the sprezzatura that we see in #menswear photos is really "faux-sprezz" as the people are clearly giving a **** while trying to look as though they don't. The whole "tie pen!s" (longer tail than blade) or the tail coming in front of or beside the blade in the tie knot thing is another egregious example.

Although, having said that, if that's what floats your boat and if you enjoy deliberately looking dishevelled or mismatched, then that's fine.

 

[CaymanS]



As mentioned by Pasha, I think that there's just one belt loop, to hold the extended waistband tab.

However, I certainly agree with what you say about wearing clip-on braces with bespoke trousers - if you're wearing a $1000 pair of bespoke trousers, why on earth would you wear clip-on braces?

I realise that it's subjective, but to me at least, it looks silly. I know that it's also something that Ethan and Jake from The Armoury have done previously with their own Ambrosi pents, and I didn't understand it then, either.
I agree entirely. A lot of the sprezzatura that we see in #menswear photos is really "faux-sprezz" as the people are clearly giving a **** while trying to look as though they don't. The whole "tie pen!s" (longer tail than blade) or the tail coming in front of or beside the blade in the tie knot thing is another egregious example.

Although, having said that, if that's what floats your boat and if you enjoy deliberately looking dishevelled or mismatched, then that's fine.

When it comes to tie penis, I practice the Manton rule, which is that up to 1" of penis is still tasteful.

 

[vida]

"A lot of the sprezzatura that we see in #menswear photos is really "faux-sprezz" as the people are clearly giving a **** while trying to look as though they don't. The whole "tie pen!s" (longer tail than blade) or the tail coming in front of or beside the blade in the tie knot thing is another egregious example. "

Completely agree! It looks ridiculous.

 

[dieworkwear]



I agree entirely. A lot of the sprezzatura that we see in #menswear photos is really "faux-sprezz" as the people are clearly giving a **** while trying to look as though they don't. The whole "tie pen!s" (longer tail than blade) or the tail coming in front of or beside the blade in the tie knot thing is another egregious example.

Although, having said that, if that's what floats your boat and if you enjoy deliberately looking dishevelled or mismatched, then that's fine.

It's not to my taste, but I don't think it's done with the intention of trying to fool people into thinking you don't care. The look may have originated from that, but it's a purposefully done detail at this point that's obviously just a fashion statement within a small circle of people - no different, frankly, than any other fashion statement done in any circle of people, at any point in history.

People here just don't like it because they have hyper conservative tastes, which is odd because ... many people here are needing to use Apparel Arts images to justify their fashion choices.

 

[dieworkwear]

Something not commented on often by men who love classic style: the surprising number of instances of unusually short ties in the first half of the 20th century (even on men typically trotted out as icons of classic men's clothing). It's a style carried on today by Bryan Ferry

 

[archetypal_yuppie]

Well,

Something not commented on often by men who love classic style: the surprising number of instances of unusually short ties in the first half of the 20th century (even on men typically trotted out as icons of classic men's clothing).

Based on what I've seen, I wouldn't call it a surprising number of unusually short ties. I'd call it a fairly universal preference for shorter ties. 1940's and earlier, seems like half the time there are several inches between belt and tie, in addition to the higher waistbands/rise. Maybe this is more common in military uniform.

 

[patrickBOOTH]



When it comes to tie penis, I practice the Manton rule, which is that up to 1" of penis is still tasteful.

I'll remind my girlfriend of this rule.

 

[sugarbutch]

TIE penis, pB.

 

[JeffArmoury]

As mentioned before, the loop that you are referring to isn't a belt loop - it's there to keep the extended waistband straight. It's a waistband treatment that Salva makes quite often.

In regards to buttoned braces versus clip-on, it's really more of a preference. Salva wouldn't cut a pair of pants different for clip-on vs. button-in. And as someone that enjoys their pants slightly below their chin, I can attest to the ease and comfort of clip-ons (Although I do wear both). They are easier to get on and off, offer a wider range of movement, and are usually cut with a double back piece.

Georgia fan is crushing it btw.

 

[dopey]



Well,
Based on what I've seen, I wouldn't call it a surprising number of unusually short ties. I'd call it a fairly universal preference for shorter ties. 1940's and earlier, seems like half the time there are several inches between belt and tie, in addition to the higher waistbands/rise. Maybe this is more common in military uniform.

You are correct. It was a universal preference because men generally wore vests and/ or kept their jackets on and closed. Until about post WWII, shirts were thought of as near underwear and not something to be exposed. Ties were shorter because they didn't need to be longer.
I am not sure when the length changed, exactly, nor how quickly it transitioned, but it is easy to get a sense from older movies and magazines.

 

[Cantabrigian]



I can attest to the ease and comfort of clip-ons.

That should have been your first clue.