The Bespoke Shoes Thread

[DorianGreen]

Perticone Bespoke.

 

[jazznpool]

By serendipity I got the ball rolling on a pair of brown vintage oak semi-brogues with Tony Gaziano yesterday.

I arrived early for my appointment with Budd shirtmakers at the Maybourne Hotel in Beverly Hills. There was a small group trunk show scheduled there. I didn’t realize Tony Gaziano would be the representative from Gaziano and Girling bespoke. I began a conversation with Tony and then proceeded with my shirt measuring with Budd which took place in the same suite room. After establishing that Tony would make my lasts and supervise the construction of my shoes I decided to move forward with a commission. It was an informative and fun meeting with extensive measurements of my feet taken. We briefly discussed the style of the shoe, which will be based on the Edward Green Cadogan oxford. The plan is to try on the first fitting shoe this summer. The wealth of experience Tony has as a lastmaker and with fine English footwear helped me decide on the spot to proceed.

This is my 3rd bespoke shoe commitment for 2024 so far (in addition to Canons and Emiko Matsuda). Hoping to engage with Daniel Wegan on a pair of ankle high brown Chelsea boots with broguing in the near future. I will then wait until my experiences with all 4 makers are complete before deciding on another bespoke shoe commission.

I might add that reading though years of history here and elsewhere helped me choose these bespoke makers—so a big thanks to all who have shared and continue to share their experiences. There are at least 2 more bespoke shoemakers on my short list (Templeman and Laborde) but will have to cool my heels for now. Lol.

Feel free to comment on your experiences with any of the makers I have commissioned.

 

[clee1982]

Why both Daniel and Gaziano by the way? Also Emiko Matsuda is going to have very different aesthetic then the other two as well

Ps personally wouldn’t do Chelsea with broguing, never find one it truly worked, got an inspiration picture?

 

[othertravel]

They have some great lasts - keeping that photo you posted for inspiration.

 

[jazznpool]

Why both Daniel and Gaziano by the way? Also Emiko Matsuda is going to have very different aesthetic then the other two as well

Ps personally wouldn’t do Chelsea with broguing, never find one it truly worked, got an inspiration picture?

Been in communication with Daniel, just waiting on his travel schedule. I like Daniel’s experience, love for his craft and control over the building process—nothing leaves his premises.

I have great respect for Tony Graziano, had a 4th shoe in mind and didn’t realize he’d be available at the trunk show I went to yesterday. If a different lastmaker from Graziano and Girling was at the trunk show yesterday I would not have been interested.

I’m leaning toward the broguing with cap toe and cap heel but am not completely locked in yet. Will consult with Daniel and ponder between now and fitting shoes. I do like the modified V shaped elastic as shown in the CJ boot.

 

[clee1982]

I like the V shape elastic CJ Chelsea as well

 

[jazznpool]

Why both Daniel and Gaziano by the way? Also Emiko Matsuda is going to have very different aesthetic then the other two as well

Ps personally wouldn’t do Chelsea with broguing, never find one it truly worked, got an inspiration picture?

I’m going with Emiko and Simon, both from Foster and Son heritage (similar single monk strap shoe different color) and Daniel Wegan (Catella) and Tony Graziano from Graziano and Girling workshop. It’s the classic English aesthetic I’m after which I think all 4 makers can execute well. No chisel toe or extended toe boxes or leading edge patinas. All of the shoes I have in mind could have been constructed 100 or more years ago. I hope to report on my experiences here.

 

[DorianGreen]

Been in communication with Daniel, just waiting on his travel schedule. I like Daniel’s experience, love for his craft and control over the building process—nothing leaves his premises.

I have great respect for Tony Graziano, had a 4th shoe in mind and didn’t realize he’d be available at the trunk show I went to yesterday. If a different lastmaker from Graziano and Girling was at the trunk show yesterday I would not have been interested.

I’m leaning toward the broguing with cap toe and cap heel but am not completely locked in yet. Will consult with Daniel and ponder between now and fitting shoes. I do like the modified V shaped elastic as shown in the CJ boot.

Not saying that the broguing looks bad, but somehow misplaced on a Chelsea Boot.
I would stick to the plain traditional style. Not a fan of the vee-shaped elastic either.

Catella Shoemaker.

 

[DorianGreen]

I’m going with Emiko and Simon, both from Foster and Son heritage (similar single monk strap shoe different color) and Daniel Wegan (Catella) and Tony Graziano from Graziano and Girling workshop. It’s the classic English aesthetic I’m after which I think all 4 makers can execute well. No chisel toe or extended toe boxes or leading edge patinas. All of the shoes I have in mind could have been constructed 100 or more years ago. I hope to report on my experiences here.

I absolutely agree, I'm not a fan of elongated toe boxes and showy patinas, so in trend nowadays, I much prefer the quiet charm of a nice plain leather.

An awsome loafer by Emiko Matsuda in Vintage Freudenburg Taupe Baby Calf.

 

[jazznpool]

I absolutely agree, I'm not a fan of elongated toe boxes and showy patinas, so in trend nowadays, I much prefer the quiet charm of a nice plain leather.

An awsome loafer by Emiko Matsuda in Vintage Freudenburg Taupe Baby Calf.

View attachment 2171479 View attachment 2171481 View attachment 2171483

Looking to use a bespoke quality analine black calf leather with the Emiko commission—a cap toe single monk strap with broguing and silver buckle. Leaning toward no medallion on the cap.

I'm feeling a quiet sense of excitement and anticipation with the bespoke shoe builds. I think there is a good amount of learning that accompanies the process.

 

[jonathanS]

Not saying that the broguing looks bad, but somehow misplaced on a Chelsea Boot.
I would stick to the plain traditional style. Not a fan of the vee-shaped elastic either.

Catella Shoemaker.

View attachment 2171475 View attachment 2171477

I think that Chelsea boot from gaziano & girling is Chelsea boot perfection. The proportions and elongated chiseled last fits the character of a Chelsea.

 

[tim_horton]

I absolutely agree, I'm not a fan of elongated toe boxes and showy patinas, so in trend nowadays, I much prefer the quiet charm of a nice plain leather.

An awsome loafer by Emiko Matsuda in Vintage Freudenburg Taupe Baby Calf.

View attachment 2171479 View attachment 2171481 View attachment 2171483

These are stunning. I’m not sure that I could pull off that color but god damn I’d like to try. Everything else is so classic that it balances out.

 

[Emospence]

Anybody else preferring a plain, uniform colour over a fancy patina? I also prefer the rather matte, silky finish.

The same pair of shoes before and after patina, Catella Shoemaker.

View attachment 2169587 View attachment 2169589

No patina is fine, but it needs to at least be polished.

 

[DorianGreen]

No patina is fine, but it needs to at least be polished.

I get your point, but, as I pointed out, I also actually like that matte, silky finish, at least on some leathers.

By the way, John Lobb had a kind of leather in this look called Kendall Calf.

 

[uozay]

I'm visiting Warsaw soon. And I would like to visit local bespoke makers.

I've seen a few names mentioned on this site, but it seems only Kielman is still active?