Alfred Sargent Handgrade - Pictures

[DWFII]



Thanks guys.
And thanks for the warning about pull tabs tearing. On the one hand, I've had a pair of calfskin AS Miller boots for a couple years now, and the pull tabs have held up well, despite my straining them so much I've ripped a couple pairs laces trying to get them on. And since these are blutcher boots with a generous amt of hooks, I think there's less strain on/off. On the other hand, Myron Glaser of Glaser Designs once showed me how shell -- for all its abrasion and puncture resistance -- is easy to tear once it gets a cut. And your pt about perforations makes sense, VRavio. So I'll try to be careful w/ them.

M,

Chances are the pull tabs on your calfskin boots were doubled over and reinforced with a hidden strap of nylon. Don't try folding cordovan....it can be done but it's not often pretty.

 

[emptym]

Hi DW, They were just a plain loop of calfskin. The only difference between the two is the stitching's a bit more widely-spaced on the cordovan, which is probably better given the possibility of tearing. Here's a couple pics of both.

 

[DWFII]

M,

Yes,I see that. I would have split and folded the calfskin, as I indicated. Oh well, different strokes, I guess.

I just don't understand why they would stitch straight across...I would have stitched a curved "V", or, more likely, an inverted "V" (what I call a "gothic arch" pattern).

The tab would not rip if done that way.

 

[meister]



M,
Yes,I see that. I would have split and folded the calfskin, as I indicated. Oh well, different strokes, I guess.
I just don't understand why they would stitch straight across...I would have stitched a curved "V", or, more likely, an inverted "V" (what I call a "gothic arch" pattern).
The tab would not rip if done that way.

Exactly.... but as Mum used to say "Old dogs for hard roads and puppies for footpaths".

 

[emptym]

Very interesting and helpful, DW. As always, I appreciate your wisdom.

Do you think a single layer of shell cordovan sewn in an arch shape would not rip? How were the G&G boots that tore sewn? Doubled loops would definitely be strong. For tall boots, they'd be great. For short boots, I think they'd be more likely to catch on one's pant cuffs. But nylon reinforcement might be a good compromise.

 

[DWFII]



Very interesting and helpful, DW. As always, I appreciate your wisdom.
Do you think a single layer of shell cordovan sewn in an arch shape would not rip? How were the G&G boots that tore sewn? Doubled loops would definitely be strong. For tall boots, they'd be great. For short boots, I think they'd be more likely to catch on one's pant cuffs. But nylon reinforcement might be a good compromise.

The G&G's were sewn straight across. Cordovan is really not all that strong in terms of tensile strength. But yes, I think the arch shape would have prevented ripping and since the stitch down of the strap is well below the topline on the Alfred Sargent's (I can't remember on the G&G), I don't see why a straight line of stitching was even contemplated. No reason...even aesthetically.

Again, you can't really fold cordovan much less split it. I suppose you could back it with something of a similar colour and sandwich a reinforcing strip in-between--that might be the way I'd do it if I just had to have a straight line of stitching. .

As far as folded straps go...they would be no more likely to catch your pant cuff than an unfolded one...unless the job was done with thick fingers.

 

[NAMOR]



Shipped on Mon, arrived today:

wow. these are bangin

 

[NORE]



wow. these are bangin

I saw this on the front page and instantly missed vox :sad:

 

[emptym]

^How did they remind you of Vox, B? I posted the shot of the loafer's sole, w/ you in mind. Did you get to the trunk show at Leffot last week?

 

[kev777]

Looks like my AS Hunt Handgrades are nearing completion......

 

[kwhunter]

Looks like my AS Hunt Handgrades are nearing completion......

That is not the final colour, is it?!

 

[kev777]

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

Looks like my AS Hunt Handgrades are nearing completion......

That is not the final colour, is it?!

No No they're to be finished yet !! Pics when complete

 

[Hampton]

******* Awesome... want so bad.

Shipped on Mon, arrived today:

 

[gyasih]



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

No No they're to be finished yet !! Pics when complete

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

That was quick!!

 

[NORE]



^How did they remind you of Vox, B? I posted the shot of the loafer's sole, w/ you in mind. Did you get to the trunk show at Leffot last week?

The word, "bangin". I had planned on stopping in to see Chay but ultimately wasn't able to make it down there. I'm sure the temptation would have been high as I don't really wear shoes all that often anymore.