٭٭٭ No Man Walks Alone - Official Affiliate Thread ٭٭٭ (a.k.a. I shouldn't have slept on it)

[Riva]

Like most seasons, we're always very interested to hear what caught you guys' attention and what you liked most from the season's assortment.

Sale time, when we scour the pages looking to see if our size is still available in that thing you've wanted, is a good time to ask that question:

What did you really like? What did you get? What did you like and would have gotten, but was sold out in your size?

For sure no more sportjackets and no pants. Already got 50 jackets but any unusually styled jackets like the Naissance mandarin are always welcome. Also I want to get the Valstar suede lined and unlined with buttons in every color size 34 which is hopefully not always MTO. That's a guaranteed purchase.

 

[ThinkDerm]

any sicilian tailored goods rtw?? lower price point than formosa, but still not mass produced. this could fill the SS tailored niche. would love something in tobacco linen

 

[Patrick R]

Also I want to get the Valstar suede lined and unlined with buttons in every color size 34 which is hopefully not always MTO. That's a guaranteed purchase.

I have wanted to try the Valstar bomber for sizing and haven't. I've promised myself to order a 54 and 56 next season and see if either works. I absolutely love all three Valstar coats I have (parka, field jacket, safari jacket).

 

[gdl203]

^ you would be 54

 

[gdl203]

I love all the suggestions and by all means keep them coming.

But that was not what I asked lol. I asked what pieces you liked most (either got or want) this season

I like the suggestions for next season too btw

 

[gdl203]

any sicilian tailored goods rtw?? lower price point than formosa, but still not mass produced. this could fill the SS tailored niche. would love something in tobacco linen

Do you buy a lot of tailored garments these days? I ask because what we see on our side is a dramatically decreased demand for tailored goods. At least for the higher quality handmade in Italy stuff. Not sure if people simply wear less suits and sport coats - or if they switched to copies of Neapolitan tailoring made in China and India at lower costs (I come across some stuff on Instagram and SF threads sometimes that's pretty shocking), but the demand is clearly lower and declining

 

[Patrick R]

My favorite pieces this season:

• Rota moleskin pants
• IM rollnecks
• G. Inglese shirts
• Formosa POW suit
• Fujito border stripe sweater

Examples spoilered.

Spoiler

Rota moleskin pants (and S&C rollneck)

Rota moleskin pants and IM rollneck

IM rollneck and Formosa suit (GRP hat, NR coat, Merola gloves)

Inglese and Formosa

Inglese

Fujito border stripe (Niche jacket)

 

[cyc wid it]

Greg, I don't know how I slot into your customer demographic, but I wear tailored clothing maybe a dozen times per year, tops. Of course, since I'm here on Styleforum, I still want to have a handful of high quality sports coats and maybe a couple of suits and 1 set of black tie (this is a WIP). NMWA gives me a window into CM (I browse other threads on this side from time to time, but I'd be perfectly happy having your buys/pre-orders guide me in this space), much like it probably gives some of the CM people a window into SW&D.

I've definitely slowed down on buying overall as my closet has grown, and am slowly culling and editing.

The interesting coats were nice this season. In tech-land, I'm a fan of the lazy t shirt + coat + jeans + boots uniform. If you could convince IM to make their take on the Inverallan 6a (or 3a) cardigans, that would be awesome.

Any thoughts on shooting more lookbooks/editorials?

 

[ThinkDerm]

I've definitely slowed down on buying overall as my closet has grown, and am slowly culling and editing.

this is my scenario

 

[sood]

From this season, I think James Grose jackets are incredible value.

 

[ThinkDerm]

Do you buy a lot of tailored garments these days? I ask because what we see on our side is a dramatically decreased demand for tailored goods. At least for the higher quality handmade in Italy stuff. Not sure if people simply wear less suits and sport coats - or if they switched to copies of Neapolitan tailoring made in China and India at lower costs (I come across some stuff on Instagram and SF threads sometimes that's pretty shocking), but the demand is clearly lower and declining

less buying as my closet is very full. love what you are doing with formosa tailored goods - non-classic and with edge - loved the donegal SC, which sold out the day it launched in my size.

I'm between California and NYC, and wear a fair amount of tailored, but can get away with denim with SC in Cali more than I should be able to.

Greg, this is a function of the economy - when the economy booms, people go away from tailored goods. When the economy busts, people dress more formally. We are likely at the peak of the boom phase.

 

[Riva]

Do you buy a lot of tailored garments these days? I ask because what we see on our side is a dramatically decreased demand for tailored goods. At least for the higher quality handmade in Italy stuff. Not sure if people simply wear less suits and sport coats - or if they switched to copies of Neapolitan tailoring made in China and India at lower costs (I come across some stuff on Instagram and SF threads sometimes that's pretty shocking), but the demand is clearly lower and declining

Year after year I noticed the same trend in that people are getting disinterested in real high quality tailored stuff aside from the lesser worn suits. In fact the last time I wore a suit was more than a year ago and I got 5 brand new sets unworn in the closet. This shift is so much that I've told myself the MTO Formosa would be my last one probably in this lifetime. A few points that everyone should be asking is with new brands such as Suit Supply being able to provide horn buttoned full canvas with Biella fabrics at such low prices, is there really a need to pay the extra for handstitched lapels? Also even bespoke isn't a fit guarantee as Simon's Formosa bespoke experience demonstrated. Finally the general public really doesn't have a clue whether your jacket is tailored by an Italian master tailor as long as it fits and looks well. The ones who can really tell the difference frankly don't need to be impressed enough in order to secure that business deal. Hell where I'm at, the 2nd largest financial institution in the world, even the Japanese managers over 5 years have switched from suits to cardigans.

Anyway looking over what I've purchased from NMWA last year it's all jackets that are on the casual side or the ones that can be worn IG / GQ style over office work attires. Knits, unusual patterns, leather... I'm actually building to "replace" the sportcoats for work with suede and knit alternatives. Thus the need for all colors padded, lined, and unlined. It's really not just because I got bored with classically tailored stuff but the public around me got bored and I get far more compliments wearing a Valstar or IM pub jacket. Having said that modern looking sportcoats in interesting fabric patterns and short cut ala Tagliatore, Boglioli, LBM may still considered.

 

[Riva]

I have wanted to try the Valstar bomber for sizing and haven't. I've promised myself to order a 54 and 56 next season and see if either works. I absolutely love all three Valstar coats I have (parka, field jacket, safari jacket).

I just got their grey suede safari myself 1 size larger for overcoat

 

[Spandexter]

As a victim of moving from a conservative (primarily suits only) work environment to a 'wear what you want' dress code (same company) I don't see myself buying any high end tailoring of any kind going forward. I'll still wear the odd jacket here and there but it will be skewed toward the more casual side of things and I'll probably pick up the odd piece from Suit Supply. On the plus side, I have much more interest in NMWA's non tailoring offerings which I think are consistently awesome.

 

[sebastian mcfox]

To echo mockingboy, an Eidos replacement. Something in the $1,000 range.

Maybe an opening for NMWA house brand... just need something to fill that void. So hard to get something styled properly at that price point.

To expound a clarify. With Eidos as the benchmark, downmarket you start to make a lot of styling concessions - MUCH shorter jackets, crappier fabrics, baby lapels, high buttoning point, low rise trousers, etc. I would love for someone to step into the above SUSU / S&M market, and offer something - perhaps made in China - that is classically styled with NMWA's fabric choices.

X100 - would buy **** tons of this