SPIER & MACKAY - Official Affiliate Thread

[sargeinaz]

I hear you. Yes the button stance is higher on Ivy stuff. The jackets were typically worn with higher rise pants and/or no break trousers. It doesn’t work as well with modern mid/low rise trousers IMO.

oh I still like and wear high rise trousers regardless of my suit/sport jackets buttoning point. I just figure it would make more sense to bring the Ivy style jacket into modern times (not going overboard and making it very tight fitting or anything like that) and give it a more louche/slouchy feel with a deeper V area (or someone could argue im bastardizing the style lol which is fair as well)

Basically take the Neo cut buttoning point and tweak it with Ivy details that we’ve all discussed (zero padding in sboulders, no shirring, swelled edges, lapped seams, patch flaps, no darts, maybe a 3.75in lapel. I could live without a single vent or 2 buttons on the sleeve. Beggars can’t be choosers lol)

also, love the new flannel sport shirts. Especially the brown/blue. Will be purchasing once it gets cooler in Phoenix lol

 

[pyunghwa]

Speaking of ivy jackets, saw this posted by permanent style. Is this considered a true ivy jacket?

 

[Brennenman]

Waiting for fall with my gun club check tweed and suede boots I know usually the lighter color jacket on top doesn’t look good, but gosh dang it, I love the check with the navy!

 

[Idesofmarch17]

@spiermackay @SpierTeam Restocking on any tuxedos soon? Just found out I need one for a wedding that has been rescheduled, so figured I would ask!

 

[Bidouleroux]

Hello ??

Hopefully someone can educate me a little on this ?
I always buy 38 regular (US) jackets which fits me quite well without further tailoring but I have noticed that I will get dimples on the back of the neck and shoulder area when not having a completely straight back. It isn’t something that bothers me a whole lot but I was wondering what might be the reason behind it. I have seen this on others suits jackets as well but I have also noticed that some don’t seem to have this “problem”.
Is it that I might have to up a size (40 US) or is it on the contrary due to too much fabric in the back? Or is it just a posture issue that us with bad posture buying OTR need to deal with ??‍♂️.

Any advice would be great ?
Fotos attached (standing and “sitting”)

(Spier and Mackay 38 regular)

(Spier and Mackay 38 slim fit, definitely too slim after my post pandemic physics ?)

View attachment 1659562

It's commonly called "collar roll" and it's not from bad posture, it's just that the jacket is not cut to accommodate your natural posture. Most jackets are cut for the average guy with a slight downward shoulder slope and a slight forward slouch. If your posture is more upright or your shoulders have a steeper downward slope the fabric will tend to bunch up between your shoulders unless you compensate by pulling back your shoulder blades (what you call "having a completely straight back"). When we sit we tend to shrug our shoulders so it can exacerbate the mismatch and cause more bunching.

First thing to do is to try standing and sitting naturally with your shoulders relaxed, looking straight ahead; no shrugging, no pulling back to compensate. Ideally, have someone take a picture from the side and the back so you're not moving yourself. If there's still a roll in either position, show it to your tailor and ask if he can fix it. If he can't, find a better tailor.

 

[SmoothLefty]

Alright guys, MTO question. There was a lot of discussion about “Ivy features” and what was available in the note section. I’ve picked a fabric and I’m ready to see how it turns out. (Going with the Marling and Evans wool/linen gray hopsack). Not sure how well the wool/linen will take to it but I’m willing to give it a try.

Since I’m volunteering to be a guinea pig- what Ivy features can/should I request in the notes section? I remember swelled edges was one of them.

1. 3.5” notch lapels.
2. 3 roll 2 button front.
3. Unpadded shoulder, with a slight Spalla Camicia and no shoulder shirring.
4. Quarter inch swelled edges and lapped seams.
5. Single vent in rear.
6. Patch pockets with flaps for hip pockets. Normal chest pocket.
7. Two cuff buttons instead of four.

And obviously a sack/dartless cut.

 

[Octobab]

@spiermackay @SpierTeam Restocking on any tuxedos soon? Just found out I need one for a wedding that has been rescheduled, so figured I would ask!

Try posting in the BST thread? Probably at least a few people out there looking to offload impulse purchases

 

[1st Step]

I followed all these rule except signing the invoice and had successful returns. Best to be safe though.

I've Dailed In On The Fit With S$M, Thank Goodness I Don't Have To Deal With Returns!

 

[dinted voice]

Any fall shirts coming this week? Want to buy denim shirt and wanting to add another shirt to the order. Thanks.

 

[DapperPhilly]

Does S&M have a designated season/time when they discount custom shirts?
Do they give a multi (4) custom shirt order discount?

@spiermackay

 

[XxLogo]

Does S&M have a designated season/time when they discount custom shirts?
Do they give a multi (4) custom shirt order discount?

@spiermackay

I believe they have a custom shirt discount right now that if you buy 3 or more there is a slight discount (unsure). Otherwise, sometimes around Black Friday/Boxing Day they usually do it.

 

[david.flo]

Just went to wear my one spier and mackay dress shirt, it's only been worn once, washed once on medium and air dried. The sleeves shrunk one inch and is no longer wearable. Have other's experienced this?

I didn't have good luck with the oxfords it shrunk considerable

 

[Rob_Gaines]

I didn't have good luck with the oxfords it shrunk considerable

Same issue with oxfords 3 years ago. I haven't purchased one since because of it. Heard they've addressed that though.

 

[James1051]

I didn't have good luck with the oxfords it shrunk considerable

Same issue with oxfords 3 years ago. I haven't purchased one since because of it. Heard they've addressed that though.

Cold wash, air dry. Fellow you quoted washed warm. Mistake. Cold/tap is the key.

Twills and oxford cloth dress shirts, lots of both, minimal shrinkage; maybe half inch at worst, and most of the time less than that, probably 1/4. The one and only bad shrink experience I had along those lines was with a poplin, which is notorious for that. This was 3-4 years ago, and Rick did address the poplin issue. No shrink issues since, not even with poplin.

 

[Rob_Gaines]

Cold wash, air dry. Fellow you quoted washed warm. Mistake. Cold/tap is the key.

Twills and oxford cloth dress shirts, lots of both, minimal shrinkage; maybe half inch at worst, and most of the time less than that, probably 1/4. The one and only bad shrink experience I had along those lines was with a poplin, which is notorious for that. This was 3-4 years ago, and Rick did address the poplin issue. No shrink issues since, not even with poplin.

Good to know! I washed my original oxfords on cold amd lost an inch in the collar and sleeves