SPIER & MACKAY - Official Affiliate Thread

[wilcthree]

Imo flaps are the most formal type of pockets and must be on a suit. On darker fabrics besoms aren't noticeable at all thus can either be formal or casual broken into separates. Plus the ladies said besoms look younger and more modern.

Ha! When the ladies speak, one must listen! ☝?

 

[ericgereghty]

@DonRaphael I’m firmly pro-besom when it comes to suits, so definitely go with that. THAT SAID, that Crispaire is suboptimal for a SC, without question. It can still work (and, in the real world…nobody will give it half a thought) as a stand-alone, but it looks more like suiting

 

[Rassul-3D]

Sportcoat. It came up a while back. SO excited about this.

True! And I Was Told Not To Tape To Box, UPS Stores Have Adhesive Sleeves That Attach To The Front Of Box, You Have To Sign All Invoices. All (3) And Shipping Label Have To Be In The Sleeve...

I followed all these rule except signing the invoice and had successful returns. Best to be safe though.

 

[Lasse Hansen]

Hello ??

Hopefully someone can educate me a little on this ?
I always buy 38 regular (US) jackets which fits me quite well without further tailoring but I have noticed that I will get dimples on the back of the neck and shoulder area when not having a completely straight back. It isn’t something that bothers me a whole lot but I was wondering what might be the reason behind it. I have seen this on others suits jackets as well but I have also noticed that some don’t seem to have this “problem”.
Is it that I might have to up a size (40 US) or is it on the contrary due to too much fabric in the back? Or is it just a posture issue that us with bad posture buying OTR need to deal with ??‍♂️.

Any advice would be great ?
Fotos attached (standing and “sitting”)

(Spier and Mackay 38 regular)

(Spier and Mackay 38 slim fit, definitely too slim after my post pandemic physics ?)

 

[DapperPhilly]

Imo flaps are the most formal type of pockets and must be on a suit. On darker fabrics besoms aren't noticeable at all thus can either be formal or casual broken into separates. Plus the ladies said besoms look younger and more modern.

"Piped pockets – also known as jetted pockets, besom pockets or welted pockets – feature no flap but are otherwise identical to flap pockets. With ultra clean lines and minimal visual bulk, this is inherently the most formal of the suit jacket pocket types"

"Sometimes, men will comment that they prefer to leave the flaps on their pockets tucked in, and, actually, flap pockets were originally intended to be worn this way; the flaps were only taken out if they were necessary to keep rain or debris from getting in. Essentially, a tucked in flap creates impromptu jetted pockets for a cleaner, more polished silhouette. These are the most formal pocket style, appearing on evening wear and formal morning dress alike, though they can also appear on suits and even on sport coats. Their appropriateness for formal clothing, however, lies in their streamlined appearance, since all you see of the pocket is a ****. Jetted pockets are also referred to as besom pockets or welted pockets; the term “welted” refers to the reinforced edges (welts) of the ****, which are partially decorative and partially practical support."

 

[NikG]

Hello ??

Hopefully someone can educate me a little on this ?
I always buy 38 regular (US) jackets which fits me quite well without further tailoring but I have noticed that I will get dimples on the back of the neck and shoulder area when not having a completely straight back. It isn’t something that bothers me a whole lot but I was wondering what might be the reason behind it. I have seen this on others suits jackets as well but I have also noticed that some don’t seem to have this “problem”.
Is it that I might have to up a size (40 US) or is it on the contrary due to too much fabric in the back? Or is it just a posture issue that us with bad posture buying OTR need to deal with ??‍♂️.

Any advice would be great ?
Fotos attached (standing and “sitting”)

(Spier and Mackay 38 regular)

(Spier and Mackay 38 slim fit, definitely too slim after my post pandemic physics ?)

View attachment 1659562

I think that it looks great, fit is excellent.

If when standing in your normal posture you don’t get any dimples then that is all you can really ask for imo. Like you said with movement you’ll get dimples and creases and all sorts of imperfections as the jacket moves as well. That’s just normal and I wouldn’t worry about it.

 

[TheLawBeard]

Alright guys, MTO question. There was a lot of discussion about “Ivy features” and what was available in the note section. I’ve picked a fabric and I’m ready to see how it turns out. (Going with the Marling and Evans wool/linen gray hopsack). Not sure how well the wool/linen will take to it but I’m willing to give it a try.

Since I’m volunteering to be a guinea pig- what Ivy features can/should I request in the notes section? I remember swelled edges was one of them.

 

[sargeinaz]

Alright guys, MTO question. There was a lot of discussion about “Ivy features” and what was available in the note section. I’ve picked a fabric and I’m ready to see how it turns out. (Going with the Marling and Evans wool/linen gray hopsack). Not sure how well the wool/linen will take to it but I’m willing to give it a try.

Since I’m volunteering to be a guinea pig- what Ivy features can/should I request in the notes section? I remember swelled edges was one of them.

I’ll be watching this with great interest as im still waiting for @spiermackay to possibly show the sack jacket sample or provide more details. I really want to be able to get a tweed one MTM.

but to answer your question. I’d assume you’d take the regular cut sport coat with an unpadded shoulder like neo cut (but ask for no shirring), ask for 3 roll 2, swelled edges, patch flap pockets and whatever style breast pocket you want. I don’t know if they allow 2 buttons spaced apart on the sleeves. Anyone feel free to give more details im forgetting and best of luck to you. Can’t wait to see it.

 

[milktoast]

Alright guys, MTO question. There was a lot of discussion about “Ivy features” and what was available in the note section. I’ve picked a fabric and I’m ready to see how it turns out. (Going with the Marling and Evans wool/linen gray hopsack). Not sure how well the wool/linen will take to it but I’m willing to give it a try.

Since I’m volunteering to be a guinea pig- what Ivy features can/should I request in the notes section? I remember swelled edges was one of them.

Paging the king of the Ivy Aesthetic @An Acute Style

 

[Riva]

I don’t know if they allow 2 buttons spaced apart on the sleeves. Anyone feel free to give more details im forgetting and best of luck to you. Can’t wait to see it.

They do allow only 1 working button if you note it on the MTO. I don't think it's that much harder to do a 2 button sleeve style. Speaking of which I mostly do 1 button now and 2 spaced for some check patterns.

 

[Evacipator]

Hello ??

Hopefully someone can educate me a little on this ?
I always buy 38 regular (US) jackets which fits me quite well without further tailoring but I have noticed that I will get dimples on the back of the neck and shoulder area when not having a completely straight back. It isn’t something that bothers me a whole lot but I was wondering what might be the reason behind it. I have seen this on others suits jackets as well but I have also noticed that some don’t seem to have this “problem”.
Is it that I might have to up a size (40 US) or is it on the contrary due to too much fabric in the back? Or is it just a posture issue that us with bad posture buying OTR need to deal with ??‍♂️.

There could be a few reasons for this, so it's hard to tell without seeing it move - a good tailor would probably be able to get a better sense from seeing it in person. It could range from arm holes being too large to it fitting incorrectly in the shoulders, but since it is happening when you are standing and slouch forward, if I had to wager I'd put my money on it being that the balance is slightly off, having been constructed for a more erect posture. Someone making a jacket to measure for you might take the pattern for that jacket and add more fabric to the back compared to the front, so that the shoulder line would effectively sit slightly farther forward on you. If that's the case though, going up a size in the same pattern probably wouldn't help a lot.

I'm not a tailor though, so like I said, it would be best to ask someone who has the expertise and can examine how it's sitting on you in person.

 

[An Acute Style]

Alright guys, MTO question. There was a lot of discussion about “Ivy features” and what was available in the note section. I’ve picked a fabric and I’m ready to see how it turns out. (Going with the Marling and Evans wool/linen gray hopsack). Not sure how well the wool/linen will take to it but I’m willing to give it a try.

Since I’m volunteering to be a guinea pig- what Ivy features can/should I request in the notes section? I remember swelled edges was one of them.

I’ll be watching this with great interest as im still waiting for @spiermackay to possibly show the sack jacket sample or provide more details. I really want to be able to get a tweed one MTM.

but to answer your question. I’d assume you’d take the regular cut sport coat with an unpadded shoulder like neo cut (but ask for no shirring), ask for 3 roll 2, swelled edges, patch flap pockets and whatever style breast pocket you want. I don’t know if they allow 2 buttons spaced apart on the sleeves. Anyone feel free to give more details im forgetting and best of luck to you. Can’t wait to see it.

Also ask for an undarted jacket. Hook vent maybe. Two sleeve buttons: 1.5” from sleeve hem and 1” apart IIRC. In terms of the 3R2, the button spacing is also important. Measure the space on a jacket you like. I think most modern jackets do 4” spacing. Ivy stuff is 5” or 6”.

 

[JayDee90]

I’ll be watching this with great interest as im still waiting for @spiermackay to possibly show the sack jacket sample or provide more details. I really want to be able to get a tweed one MTM.

but to answer your question. I’d assume you’d take the regular cut sport coat with an unpadded shoulder like neo cut (but ask for no shirring), ask for 3 roll 2, swelled edges, patch flap pockets and whatever style breast pocket you want. I don’t know if they allow 2 buttons spaced apart on the sleeves. Anyone feel free to give more details im forgetting and best of luck to you. Can’t wait to see it.

You can already get these details on a MTM commission.

 

[sargeinaz]

Also ask for an undarted jacket. Hook vent maybe. Two sleeve buttons: 1.5” from sleeve hem and 1” apart IIRC. In terms of the 3R2, the button spacing is also important. Measure the space on a jacket you like. I think most modern jackets do 4” spacing. Ivy stuff is 5” or 6”.

one thing I don’t care for on Ivy style jackets is the buttoning point is typically higher than I like. Perhaps that button spacing you’re talking about is the reason why. I never thought of that measurement.

I’d prefer a version that has a lower more modern buttoning point, I don’t know if I’m in the minority on that one though

 

[An Acute Style]

one thing I don’t care for on Ivy style jackets is the buttoning point is typically higher than I like. Perhaps that button spacing you’re talking about is the reason why. I never thought of that measurement.

I’d prefer a version that has a lower more modern buttoning point, I don’t know if I’m in the minority on that one though

I hear you. Yes the button stance is higher on Ivy stuff. The jackets were typically worn with higher rise pants and/or no break trousers. It doesn’t work as well with modern mid/low rise trousers IMO.