Briefcase Appreciation thread

[jwong6590]

Thanks. Now I know more.

 

[casemaker]

Not sure if this is the appropriate thread to ask but does anyone know where to buy a custom canvas or canvas+leather bag? It seems to me that canvas would be very different from leather to work with but maybe not...

Hi, I have over the years designed and made canvas/leather bags, so may be able to help? a few different examples,













Just a few things from my archives. The main difficulty is in being able to find a good quality thick canvas, in a small quantity, to make a single bespoke piece!

pm me if I can help, regards, simon

 

[shanetrudell]

The bag is beautiful. Quite similar to my JP Marcellino Alfred Wallace. What is the price?

Much more English workmanship style than JP to my eye, much more like SAB and very nice indeed

Charlie

Thanks to you both for the regards.

My work is primarily custom so of course prices vary, but they often fall underneath SAB anyways, particularly for bespoke work. My website is currently down for a critical upgrade, though when it's back I'll be sure to post the address along with a new discount in the works for SFers.

Quote:

Well said Charlie.

There are variety of tools and techniques used in the traditional craft - most of which are difficult to learn and slow to use - that nonetheless create both more refinement and more durability than result from newer methods / machines. Also, the SOP calls for extra attention to be paid to the critical components and hard wearing areas - reinforcement at handles, corners, hardware connections etc is de rigeur.

Cheers,
Shane

 

[shanetrudell]

Just a few things from my archives. The main difficulty is in being able to find a good quality thick canvas, in a small quantity, to make a single bespoke piece!

pm me if I can help, regards, simon

These are fantastic. In particular I really like the first holdall and the white trunk. Excellent!

 

[Equus Leather]



Thanks. Now I know more.

My pleasure

There are a lot of good photos archived here and a number of good makers posting so some really interesting stuff around for those who are interested in the craftsmansip side. I think StyleForum is more or less unique in the fashion world in that respect. Just this thread has some great images - have a look and you'll see some of the detail photos

Charlie

 

[guitar2013]

Has anyone had experience with Frank Clegg, JW Hulme and Mulholland briefcases?

 

[slickback]

LL Bean

 

[LabelKing]



Well said Charlie.

There are variety of tools and techniques used in the traditional craft - most of which are difficult to learn and slow to use - that nonetheless create both more refinement and more durability than result from newer methods / machines. Also, the SOP calls for extra attention to be paid to the critical components and hard wearing areas - reinforcement at handles, corners, hardware connections etc is de rigeur.

Cheers,
Shane

Is it more difficult to make a hard-sided Vuitton style case or a soft briefcase?

I've read that a good handle is quite difficult to make.

 

[Equus Leather]



Is it more difficult to make a hard-sided Vuitton style case or a soft briefcase?

I've read that a good handle is quite difficult to make.

A good handle is very difficult to make. Look at the complexity a really good briefcase handle has compared to a cheap one - totally different things. Im sure one of the case makers will be along to tell us how many bits of leather and how much time goes into a handle!

A proper hard sided wooden framed leather covered briefcase is a very specialist thing, there are very few people who make them. Likewise the soft SAB style briefcase if made completely by hand is not easy. Id say a hard sided case maker has rarer skills but maybe I just know more people who work in bridle leather than the average!

Charlie

 

[shanetrudell]

Is it more difficult to make a hard-sided Vuitton style case or a soft briefcase?

I've read that a good handle is quite difficult to make.

Hi there,

Charlie is correct about that there is some specialization required for the attache maker. The first cases were large trunks - in the mid 19th century travel was by rail and cheap porters were the norm - so the standard carry was large (and heavy) wooden trunks, perhaps covered by the local saddler in thick hides. As travel by steam ship boomed, the use of such trunks continued and the steamer trunk epitomizes today's vision of the trunk. Smaller trunks arrived along with the first automobiles and now we have every size available - including the hard sided business case. Back to specialization though - in the heyday of the trunk the box-maker occupied his own craft, but this of course is long gone, so having a quality box made for a custom attache now is something of an enterprise.

This brings up an interesting conversation about the evolution of the case as tied to transportation. For example, the popularization of the zipper is directly linked to that of air travel, as light weight became more important, but this conversation could be left to another post.

As for the handle, it is indeed a difficult and critical component. A good handle will use 8 to 12 pieces of leather and will take many hours indeed. I find it quite telling that the big name companies will so proudly advertise the 'hand stitches' and two or three hours their people spend on the handle, surely contrasted by the lack of time and handwork going into the rest of the piece. I do like the handle design on the President Classeur actually (though $6000 for a canvas case...).

An excellent blog post on handles by the Japanese master Fugee pictures a few handles he makes for different cases. http://fugeebags.blogspot.ca/2013_01_01_archive.html

Hope this helps.

Cheers,
Shane

 

[unjung]

I am seeking recommendations for a 17" top-closure soft briefcase, ideally in tan. I am looking at the Glaser day bag but am wondering if I can find something at a slightly lower price point. I don't need all the detailing of Glaser... less would be more. I have contacted a couple of the custom leatherworkers from this thread to see what they might say as well. And of course, I have been through the thread and have seen some nice things, but unfortunately not very many makers make a bag for an oversized laptop (this is what you get when you decide you need a keypad).

 

[JP Marcellino]

A picture saves a thousand words so if you look through the many pictures of JPs work and those of Shane T or Casemaker on here (both of whom make really nice English work) you'll see for eg the number of stitches per inch is smaller, the stitch lines are closer to the edges of the leather, the cut edges of leather have a smoother finish, in general the work is less rustic and more details. Rustic is what a lot of people like so Im not necessarily saying the English style is better, but the details and finish tend to be more refined.

HTH

Charlie

Interesting. Indeed.

Thanks for your opinion on refinement, I disagree. And thank you for making a distinction that I do not have an SAB English Workmanship style. They have been one of the many masters in this art form and I have never intended to be their clone or a cheaper version. I have carved my own New York style.


For all the briefcase lovers, let me save you “a thousand words” and introduce some of my new styles for 2014 – an American Workmanship Style and Refinement.

The pictures link to more info so you can see the rest of the thousand words.

Today was memorial day - remember those who've fallen


The Nathan Hale Briefcase – this is brand new and still underdevelopment. It will be out by mid June 2014. This is a final sample with the only difference being my logo name engraved on the hasp. This is a very unique combination lock that is built so well the internal and external components resemble a fine clock. This lock is NOT Nickle Alloy an inferior metal. It is made of Palladium, a pure precious metal and will also come in solid brass. I will have more info as the time comes. It is lined with suede – handle is removable and here are 2 types
















The Bartolomeo Vanzetti Briefcase – another highly built solid brass combo lock. All suede lined with a removable handle and flap that pivots all the way back that is built and stitched hinges and all entirely by hand









The Fyodor M Dostoyevsky Briefcase – this is a limited edition. I only have a few of these unused old (at least 30 years) antique Eagle locks – a great American luggage company that has been out of business now for over 30 years. These locks were built like tanks. I have the chrome and some in solid brass









The Thomas More 1912 – refined stitching detail on the handle with stitched in buckle straps and thin 1.5” compartments. This is a smaller overall gusset width at 3” than my normal at 4”




The Alfred Wallace 2209 – refined and manufactured on Long Island, leather grazed and raised in America and vegetable tanned in St Louis – ships to the people of the world








Always advancing my Strong Eye Latch briefcases

The Habermas 2066 – brought out the width from the normal 2.5” to 3”







The Thomas Paine Briefcase – Extra handle support, curve cuts on the top flap ends for a better shoulder strap hang, and the front top latch has been redesigned for a cleaner look.



The McCarty 1541 - simple clean black briefcase, bottom cross stitch handle that pulls up from the flap

 

[jwong6590]

Beautiiful briefcases. I am glad I got my briefcase from you Joe.

Interesting. Indeed. Thanks for your opinion on refinement, I disagree. And thank you for making a distinction that I do not have an SAB English Workmanship style. They have been one of the many masters in this art form and I have never intended to be their clone or a cheaper version. I have carved my own New York style. For all the briefcase lovers, let me save you “a thousand words” and introduce some of my new styles for 2014 – an American Workmanship Style and Refinement. The pictures link to more info so you can see the rest of the thousand words. Today was memorial day - remember those who've fallen The Nathan Hale Briefcase – this is brand new and still underdevelopment. It will be out by mid June 2014. This is a final sample with the only difference being my logo name engraved on the hasp. This is a very unique combination lock that is built so well the internal and external components resemble a fine clock. This lock is NOT Nickle Alloy an inferior metal. It is made of Palladium, a pure precious metal and will also come in solid brass. I will have more info as the time comes. It is lined with suede – handle is removable and here are 2 types The Bartolomeo Vanzetti Briefcase – another highly built solid brass combo lock. All suede lined with a removable handle and flap that pivots all the way back that is built and stitched hinges and all entirely by hand The Fyodor M Dostoyevsky Briefcase – this is a limited edition. I only have a few of these unused old (at least 30 years) antique Eagle locks – a great American luggage company that has been out of business now for over 30 years. These locks were built like tanks. I have the chrome and some in solid brass The Thomas More 1912 – refined stitching detail on the handle with stitched in buckle straps and thin 1.5” compartments. This is a smaller overall gusset width at 3” than my normal at 4” The Alfred Wallace 2209 – refined and manufactured on Long Island, leather grazed and raised in America and vegetable tanned in St Louis – ships to the people of the world Always advancing my Strong Eye Latch briefcases The Habermas 2066 – brought out the width from the normal 2.5” to 3” The Thomas Paine Briefcase – Extra handle support, curve cuts on the top flap ends for a better shoulder strap hang, and the front top latch has been redesigned for a cleaner look. The McCarty 1541 - simple clean black briefcase, bottom cross stitch handle that pulls up from the flap

 

[Equus Leather]



Interesting. Indeed. Thanks for your opinion on refinement, I disagree. And thank you for making a distinction that I do not have an SAB English Workmanship style. They have been one of the many masters in this art form and I have never intended to be their clone or a cheaper version. I have carved my own New York style. For all the briefcase lovers, let me save you “a thousand words” and introduce some of my new styles for 2014 – an American Workmanship Style and Refinement. The pictures link to more info so you can see the rest of the thousand words.

Hi JP, As I was careful to note I wasn't criticising you and had hoped you'd be one of the makers posting photos when the OP asked for an explanation of the differences in style I referred to. I stand by my observations though, the European school for e.g. would tend to stitch at 8 - 10 spi, and thats not because they are copying or aping anyone elses style its just because thats how they're trained to do it. Having a style of your own is fine and Im sure your sales figures and feedback here reflect that people like your work - that doesn't mean there cant be academic discussion of the detail though I hope, because nobody learns anything that way. This is one of the very few forums where makers and customers interact, its really important we as makers can explain the differences in our work and why and how we do what we do without being to ivory tower about it Charlie

 

[kolecho]



Hi JP,

As I was careful to note I wasn't criticising you and had hoped you'd be one of the makers posting photos when the OP asked for an explanation of the differences in style I referred to. I stand by my observations though, the European school for e.g. would tend to stitch at 8 - 10 spi, and thats not because they are copying or aping anyone elses style its just because thats how they're trained to do it. Having a style of your own is fine and Im sure your sales figures and feedback here reflect that people like your work - that doesn't mean there cant be academic discussion of the detail though I hope, because nobody learns anything that way. This is one of the very few forums where makers and customers interact, its really important we as makers can explain the differences in our work and why and how we do what we do without being to ivory tower about it

Charlie

+1