Bespoke from Singapore (pic heavy!)

kolecho · Jun 7, 2009

Originally Posted by AndrewRogers

Wow, that tweed really drapes well.

+1

gshen · Jun 7, 2009

Originally Posted by kolecho

The collar on that tweed coat needs some tightening.

+1. Didn't realise this till I saw the pics. Will be taking it back to the tailor soon to correct this and to tighten the upper back on the right side as well.

Originally Posted by Smahatma

Looks good. I think that tweed jacket could have benefited from a softer shirt-style shoulder though. The built, strong shoulders conflict with the other details that convey a casual nature.

The shoulders are actually quite soft already! I told my tailor 1000x that I wanted very soft shoulders, and this is as soft as it gets from them i guess. I am thinking that my shoulders might be a bit square in the first place..

Originally Posted by GBR

Thank you for posting these.

Congratulations, you certainly have a keen eye - the waistcoat is quite unusual yet 'in the cloth' looks good. What was your inspiration? The tweed coat too offers an adventurous style but one which both suits you and also is good.

The only minor criticism and this may just be how you are standing is that the coat of the suit looks just a tad tight when buttoned but at the front and at the vents which seem to be just a bit too open. The tweed coat does not and I want if you need a slightly greater allowance for the waistcoat?? Trousers however are perfect.

Are the trousers with the tweed coat also bespoke? - If so, same tailor?

Can you post pictures of the coat interiors - to show lining and pockets please?

This certainly demonstrates that is at least one decent cutter in Singapore, despite a view that has emerged here over the last few years. You have an excellent eye and resulting wardrobe, Gshen, congratulations.

- thanks mate. Manton's suit was the inspiration. I shamelessly ripped off his design.
- suit feels fine and is about the same fit as the tweed jacket actually. Might be the lighter cloth that doesn't hide the creases very well.
- the darker brown trousers are from a different tailor.. your eyes would pop out if i told you how much he charges me! can't reveal the source in the open!
- i'll try to get detail pics up in the next few days.

Originally Posted by Phat Guido

Looking GURD Brah!

Originally Posted by bowtielover

Looks good to me.

THANKS!

gshen · Jun 7, 2009

Originally Posted by kolecho

I am beginning to lose you. I think you need some real shoe fix.

+1!!! PG dude are you drunk?

Manton · Jun 7, 2009

The back balance on those looks a bit short. The vents are not closing.

maomao1980 · Jun 7, 2009

Two nit picks:

I prefer straighter cut vents, i.e. not as trapezoidal

I don't like the way the tweed buttons up, there is no flowing "X", meaning the angle of the joining lapels is not balanced with the opening of the quarters. I think it's important to have this balance on a 3 button jacket.

Having said that, I think they look really good. The three piece reminds me of something that yfyf has.

gshen · Jun 7, 2009

Really, really appreciate the feedback folks!

Originally Posted by Manton

The back balance on those looks a bit short. The vents are not closing.

I would think this isn't fixable with alterations? Would adding length on the back fix this, or is this a combination of tightness as well?

Originally Posted by maomao1980

Two nit picks:

I prefer straighter cut vents, i.e. not as trapezoidal

I don't like the way the tweed buttons up, there is no flowing "X", meaning the angle of the joining lapels is not balanced with the opening of the quarters. I think it's important to have this balance on a 3 button jacket.

Having said that, I think they look really good. The three piece reminds me of something that yfyf has.

Thanks maomao! I think the buttoning might be my fault.. I asked her to shift the centre button down a little after the 2nd fitting, where the lapel was already rolled. Or are you referring to something else?

Manton · Jun 7, 2009

Originally Posted by gshen

I would think this isn't fixable with alterations?
You never know, I have had bespoke jackets with minor balance problems that were able to be fixed.

You need more length, so if there is inlay, it should be doable.

maomao1980 · Jun 7, 2009

Originally Posted by gshen

Thanks maomao! I think the buttoning might be my fault.. I asked her to shift the centre button down a little after the 2nd fitting, where the lapel was already rolled. Or are you referring to something else?

Yeap you got it, I think lower buttoning point or higher rolling point of the lapel will make a difference. Also of course the collar can be tighter and the quarters closer. Just small tweaks you can try next time.

Parker · Jun 7, 2009

Originally Posted by gshen

The shoulders are actually quite soft already! I told my tailor 1000x that I wanted very soft shoulders, and this is as soft as it gets from them i guess. I am thinking that my shoulders might be a bit square in the first place..
Looks great gshen. I like the Norfolk back on the tweed. As mentioned, they may be a tad short or tight, but overall really nice. Agree the collar could be tighten/raised on the tweed. fwiw, my shoulders are quite square but I prefer a more sloped line, so my tailor added a tiny bit of padding behind my neck/shoulder muscle (trapezius). It smoothed out a nice sloped line to the shoulder seam. Still a very minimally padded jacket. Don't know if that helps, but thought I'd mention it.

nate10184 · Jun 7, 2009

Originally Posted by maomao1980

I don't like the way the tweed buttons up, there is no flowing "X", meaning the angle of the joining lapels is not balanced with the opening of the quarters. I think it's important to have this balance on a 3 button jacket.
Bingo. If you're going to have a 3-button like this I think the lapel roll has to be a continuation of the quarters. I think this is one of the reason DocHolliday's jackets always look so well-proportioned. When I first saw this pic I didn't even realize it was a 3 roll 2. Otherwise I think the jacket and fabric look amazing, it sounds like you are really on to a great thing with this tailor.

vs.

Sander · Jun 7, 2009

Originally Posted by gshen

Manton's suit was the inspiration. I shamelessly ripped off his design.
Nonononono, you didn't. That's a totally different suit. Much more modern, much slimmer. I remember that I wrote somewhere (when you first told us about the vest) that I wasn't sure whether it was going to work with this kind of suit. And I must say that I think that it doesn't really. Don't get me wrong: I think the suit looks great, it fits and it seems to fit you (in that you are comfortable in it, also that it blends in with the rest of your style) - but the vest just doesn't work. It's like the suit is out of a GQ ad (one of those that actually looks good) and the vest out of an Apparel Arts illustration. (Yes, I know that they are basically the same magazine, just 75 years later.) If you absolutely wanted to go three-piece (which you can't really wear in Sin, can you?), I think a SB 5-button (read: low-cut) one would have been a lot more congruent. In fact, I really like this idea. Are you really comfortable in it? PS: the Tweed jacket really looks great. I'm envious.

gshen · Jun 7, 2009

Originally Posted by Manton

You never know, I have had bespoke jackets with minor balance problems that were able to be fixed.

You need more length, so if there is inlay, it should be doable.

Thanks for the tip.. will check this out.

Originally Posted by maomao1980

Yeap you got it, I think lower buttoning point or higher rolling point of the lapel will make a difference. Also of course the collar can be tighter and the quarters closer. Just small tweaks you can try next time.

Thanks mao! Attending some of the iBloke fitting sessions at the mystery tailor guy will certainly help train my eye

Originally Posted by Parker

fwiw, my shoulders are quite square but I prefer a more sloped line, so my tailor added a tiny bit of padding behind my neck/shoulder muscle (trapezius). It smoothed out a nice sloped line to the shoulder seam. Still a very minimally padded jacket. Don't know if that helps, but thought I'd mention it.

Great suggestion! I should try asking for it next time. Thanks!

Originally Posted by nate10184

Bingo. If you're going to have a 3-button like this I think the lapel roll has to be a continuation of the quarters. I think this is one of the reason DocHolliday's jackets always look so well-proportioned.

When I first saw this pic I didn't even realize it was a 3 roll 2. Otherwise I think the jacket and fabric look amazing, it sounds like you are really on to a great thing with this tailor.

Thanks for the illustration, nate.

Originally Posted by Sander

If you absolutely wanted to go three-piece (which you can't really wear in Sin, can you?), I think a SB 5-button (read: low-cut) one would have been a lot more congruent. In fact, I really like this idea.
Are you really comfortable in it?

PS: the Tweed jacket really looks great. I'm envious.

You can at night when you're going to be in air-con all night! Yeah, i actually really like the uniqueness of the 3pc suit. Sure to draw weird looks, but any form of dress-up gets weird looks here anyway..

maomao1980 · Jun 8, 2009

Originally Posted by gshen

Thanks mao! Attending some of the iBloke fitting sessions at the mystery tailor guy will certainly help train my eye...

I'm not sure if you want to subject yourself to that kind of scrutiny, example:

james_timothy · Jun 8, 2009

Originally Posted by nate10184

Bingo. If you're going to have a 3-button like this I think the lapel roll has to be a continuation of the quarters. I think this is one of the reason DocHolliday's jackets always look so well-proportioned.

When I first saw this pic I didn't even realize it was a 3 roll 2. Otherwise I think the jacket and fabric look amazing, it sounds like you are really on to a great thing with this tailor.

vs.

This analysis is the best thing I've seen on SF all week. Thanks!

On the other hand, now I'm endlessly analyzing the jackets of folks in WAYRN for this quarter to lapel curve.

overdog · Jun 8, 2009

The sleeve pitch on all of your jackets have been flawless. Mafoofan would be proud.

Bespoke from Singapore (pic heavy!)

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