Zam Barrett Dialogue/ Zfactorie - Official Affiliate Thread.

[etostano]

3. Let me get a count on those genuinely interested in the Inner Leather Jacket. i might be able to do something for the community here in terms of a small GROUP BUY

My inner leather from last year is easily my favorite leather jacket, seriously everyone here should be interested. All the little details are just so well thought out (my favorite example: the inside chest pockets are super easy to gets things in and out of even if the jacket is partly zipped, but also always keep things secure inside).

 

[FrankCowperwood]

Zam, thinking about the leather MTO and wondering two things:

1. Could padding (e.g. shoulders of elbows/forearms) be an option at an additional cost?

2. Could there be an option for brown core leather (often black, sometimes dark blue), so the brown shows through the top color with wear?

Don’t know if either of these really fits with what you do, but I’ve been looking around and various combinations with these two features. And if it worked out to be able to buy an MTO from you along those lines, that would be fine by me.

 

[Zamb]

Zam, thinking about the leather MTO and wondering two things:

1. Could padding (e.g. shoulders of elbows/forearms) be an option at an additional cost?

2. Could there be an option for brown core leather (often black, sometimes dark blue), so the brown shows through the top color with wear?

Don’t know if either of these really fits with what you do, but I’ve been looking around and various combinations with these two features. And if it worked out to be able to buy an MTO from you along those lines, that would be fine by me.

thanks for the inquiry

I think those things might be possible, but I want to also offer a narrow framework for the MTO.
I think opening it up to unlimited variation can be disastrous if you understand what i mean.

With respect to leather choices, I will be doing a tannery visit very soon (later this month) and speaking to the managers so that I can have an understanding of the type and range of leathers that will be available to me.

I am going to message you.

 

[Zamb]

Hello All, i am at Zfactorie for the next 4 hours (shipping orders etc) If anyone has a question feel free to post it here

I will reply to you as soon as i can

 

[FrankCowperwood]

thanks for the inquiry

I think those things might be possible, but I want to also offer a narrow framework for the MTO.
I think opening it up to unlimited variation can be disastrous if you understand what i mean.

With respect to leather choices, I will be doing a tannery visit very soon (later this month) and speaking to the managers so that I can have an understanding of the type and range of leathers that will be available to me.

I am going to message you.

Absolutely best to keep things simple especially to start.

 

[gong]

im very excited for the leather mto program. interested in the black calf high neck minimalist leather as well that's currently on the site.

 

[Zamb]

im very excited for the leather mto program. interested in the black calf high neck minimalist leather as well that's currently on the site.

Did you get your shirt?

If you are interested in minimalist leather let me know......this week is a good week with the additional 25% off

 

[Zamb]

As for MTO
I plan to offer for SS18:

One leather shirt (heavy, unlined)
2 Leather Jackets, I plan to do a new asymmetric lapel Jacket, and another Leather of completely new design (unlined and good for Spring)
There is contemplation of a Leather COAT, but that is on the fence at the moment.

 

[gong]

Did you get your shirt?

If you are interested in minimalist leather let me know......this week is a good week with the additional 25% off

not yet

 

[Zamb]

We are going to make an announcement later today regarding the minimalist slim pants in heavy linen,

While we are in the process there are some items that we just updated that persons here may be interested in

1. QUADRIVIUM BLACK in 44 and 48
2. QUADRIVIUM CARBON in 44 and 52
3. Minimalist Slim pants - 46 and 50

I am posting it here so SF members who need any of these can have a go at them first.

 

[Zamb]

A very happy customer sent me this this morning

Its always a pleasure to me to see how the customer interprets and incorporate the product into their wardrobe. this with the burn orange tee and brown boots is really nice

 

[Zamb]

THE NEW MINIMALIST SLIM PANTS IS UP ON ZFACTORIE

we had one preordered in 44 and we sold the 46 last night as it was listed 48 -52 available

 

[Zamb]

Reposting the process

- THE MAKING OF THE MINIMALIST SLIM PANTS -
-- TRUE ARTISANAL WORK PROCESSES --

One of the great Joys of owning Zfactorie is that we can come to the workrooms on any given morning and decide to adjust/ rearrange the schedule as needed
We are working in the "between season" items now (along with 2 capsules) and on Friday I decided to give a real time coverage of preparing of a pair of minimalist slim pants sample in the New heavy Linen(s) that we offered the preorder on.

we came into the studio at 9:15 am and by 4:30 pm we had the original sample cut, made, dyed and photographed........not bad in terms of efficiency, something that will be a focus for the year 2018
Below, here is how we did it

We began cutting around 9:30, by 10:00 am the pants body and all is parts were completely cut and give to Master tailor and pants expert Mamoune for sewing
the fabric is 18 oz Heavy Linen in a 1.75" herringbone weave linen
(there will be two variants of the pants, the herringbone version and the Plain weave version)

The pants parts are overlocked (in the color thread that it will be dyed in) and sewing has began for the pants. two people are working on the pants, to finish the item in approximately half or 2/3rd the time it generally takes

The fly pieces are made and the waistband prepared while the body of the pants is being sewn. the pants is scheduled to be done at 12:30 noon

At 11:30 Am two separate dye baths are prepared so that as soon as the pants is completed it can be dyed.
the first dye bath is completely cold as we are dying natural fibers by way of cold process dyeing. a secret is to have a 2nd dye bath with a warm solution that will do a second stage of dyeing to ensure a rich color and depth. This is needed especially for heavy fabrics.

At 11:30 am two separate dye baths are prepared so that as soon as the pants is completed it can be dyed.
The first dye bath is completely cold as we are dying natural fibers by way of cold process dyeing. a secret is to have a 2nd dye bath with a warm solution that will do a second stage of dyeing to ensure a rich color and depth. This is needed especially for heavy fabrics.

At 1:15 pm after a small battle with myself and Mamoune for making a big mistake and delaying the pants by 1 hour the pants is finally completed and ready for dyeing.

at approximately 1:30 pm the pants is placed into the dye bath by our master colorist Mr Morris who does all the great dyework at Zfactorie. He has been our dye specialist for the last 5 Years and knows how to mox all the colors and how to speed up or slow down the dyeing process as needed. We save some time by adding extra dye and warming the water a little higher than normal with constant stirring of the solution for uniformity of color

At 3pm the pants is finished with the dye process and being cooled (the blurriness of the images is as a result of steam.
After the Pants is cooled, it is then rinsed to remove all excess dye and salt and then dried and made ready for photographing. all this was done by 4:30 pm

At 4:30 Here is the finished product. Done, done and done. Beautiful. We enjoyed the process and we hope you enjoyed our behind the scenes view of our processes.
The pants is now available for purchase on Zfactorie with shipping on Wednesday Jan 17th.

 

[Auximenes]

pants look good - also i liked those close ups on the tri continental pants some pages ago. Such pics would be helpful on the webshop as well to better see the fabrics.
Someone asked about the inner leather jacket earlier - I own the FW14-15 ( I think, i can't quite remember ??) version, and it fits rather true to size.
I m between 48 and 50 in most brands, and in Zam tops i m either 48 or 50 as well (i just go by measurements to make my selection). This jacket is size 50

here are some pics :

Spoiler

 

[Zamb]

Thanks @Auximenes!
The Jacket is fab and great piece, quite a number of persons i know own this jacket and its one of the ones they cherish because of the concept and how well it was actually executed.
the only thing we have ever changed on this piece is the sleeve detail. yours have the snap closure (same as the current season)
Last season the sleeves had the same closure as current Minimalist Leather Jacket