Yohji, Or How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love The Looser Fit (Yohji Yamamoto Thread)

[Parker]

Yohji in space:

 

[davidlee388]

YYPH AW16 in about 8 hours.
Expect another stellar show by the Master

 

[Parker]

Badass.




I love all the trousers. And the strappy looks.

 

[ProfMonnitoff]

^ Agreed. The seditionaries references are really well done, they somehow fit coherently into Yohji's world. Of course it's not his first nod to Vivienne Westwood, but certainly the most literal one.

I also liked the looks with two guys walking together, they felt like a nod to The Men in the best way possible.

That being said can someone explain the choice to style tiny knits over padded coats? As individual items of clothing they're unremarkable, and as a look they don't seem very appealing to me

 

[Parker]

Yeah I really like this collection, more so than the AW15. Totally see the punk rock VW vibe in it. Love the almost all the trousers, the rat tails, and the strap boots/Docs. And the knits. The knits are awesome! I have no clue about the small tight shirts over the big puffer coats. Maybe a semi-bondage, straight-jacket reference. Some of our Yohji experts seemed to have split the scene, but maybe someone can shed some light. I'm curious to read the reviews later.

 

[Parker]

In case anyone is still reading this, I found some explanation for the layering here along with some extra shots of the footwear.

Yohji Quote:
Corporate Motherfuckers!

 

[Ivwri]

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

Been a long while peeps!

YYPH SS13 (Cupro 56%/Cotton 44%)
Y's for Men (Cotton 100%)
YYPH SS15 (Wool 100%)
Birks

Still processing the AW16 Yohji show personally, but my gut reaction is that I like it a lot .

Great to see @Parker still posting.

 

[Parker]

Great look Ivwri. ^^ That shirt-blazer is really cool. I like how the back panel tucks around the bottom hem.

Yeah, I'm still around. I've actually been reading this entire thread again recently. I missed a lot the first time around, so learning some new stuff.

 

[the shah]

awesome look naija

hope all's going well with the new endeavours and papahood ;-)

 

[the shah]



In case anyone is still reading this, I found some explanation for the layering here along with some extra shots of the footwear.

 It’s kind of a joke,” Yamamoto admitted backstage, explaining he had envisioned cold children on whom mothers had piled oodles of clothing — and added, at the last moment, T-shirts (with some bearing eye-popping messages like “Corporate Motherf—ers”).

Corporate Motherfuckers!

lol he's having quite some fun isn't he. seems like the sketches have become integral part of both yy and y3 these past few season. it would have been hilarious to see the models with all the puffy knits bouncing off each other

i enjoyed the strapped looks the most (hair tie is a gross concept though), waiting to see the videos of course.

Dazed has some nice closeup perspectives:

 

[Ivwri]

Thanks for the kind words guys.

@the shah Things are going alright all considered. Been crazy busy lately and I am likely to get even busier, heh. The little one is growing every day and I wish I could tell her to slow down so I can catch up .

@Parker Been meaning to do the same thing with this thread actually. It's funny, the minute I began working in fashion here, the less I have the time to keep up with what is going on in the industry. I guess I am also becoming more and more interested in producing and helping others to produce and/or sell over here so my focus has shifted a tad.

I still try and keep up with Yohji though. The longer I own certain pieces and the more I wear his clothing, the more I appreciate the thought that goes into them and the spirit that they carry. Very contented at the moment and while I may not be as eager to hunt for new pieces any more, every single thing I have bought from recent seasons has always been a pleasure to own. Looking forward to SS16!

 

[happyriverz]

Hi all, I'm a long-time lurker on SF but first time poster.

I caught the Yohji bug when I stumbled into a NYC store called Dear Rivington while on vacation a couple of weeks ago. What really caught my eye was the owner's Yohji pants: the drape and the flow were just incredible when he walked around the store and showed me stuff. BTW, if you are a fan of Yohji, you should totally check out the store: it stocks current and vintage Yohji and CdG, along with one-of-a-kinds and pieces made only for the Japanese market.

Unfortunately I did not have time to try on any of the pants as I was late meeting a friend, but ever since then I've been meaning to get a pair of Yohji pants, but I have a couple of questions, so I thought I'd ask them here.

Other than the volume, is there something else that makes Yohji pants drape and move like the way they do? Is it something special or unique with the cut? In other words, how distinct are Yohji pants from other wide-legged trouers, for example, like these wide-legged trousers from E Tautz?

Can Y-3 pants be considered somewhat representative of mainline/YYPH pants in terms of silhouette? I see some on Yoox, and while they have a similar shape to the Yohji pants I saw, it's not clear, especially based on the crappy Yoox pictures, whether Y-3 pants could serve as an adequate entry point to get used to the Yohji silhouette.

 

[Parker]

I think it's hard to compare since Yohji makes so many different cuts of pants: slim, full, wide, cropped etc. Also, he makes conventional designs like those Tautz, but a lot with elaborate closure systems, buttons, etc. As a generalization, his pants always seem to "hang" very well off the rear and waist -- probably because he is an expert pattern maker.

If you're looking for drape, I'd go for wool. Cotton is trickier. It really depends on the fabric, some has it some doesn't.

Someone else could elaborate on Y-3. The few things I have are close in cut and silhouette to the mainline, but the fabrics are all athletic stuff which doesn't always jive with things like a wool blazer or dress shirt. e.g. I just bought some harem style balloon pants which have a great shape but they are made from a coarse cotton-poly which has none of the "flow" of wool gab or even the nicer cotton-blends from YYPH.

 

[happyriverz]

I think it's hard to compare since Yohji makes so many different cuts of pants: slim, full, wide, cropped etc. Also, he makes conventional designs like those Tautz, but a lot with elaborate closure systems, buttons, etc. As a generalization, his pants always seem to "hang" very well off the rear and waist -- probably because he is an expert pattern maker.

If you're looking for drape, I'd go for wool. Cotton is trickier. It really depends on the fabric, some has it some doesn't.

Someone else could elaborate on Y-3. The few things I have are close in cut and silhouette to the mainline, but the fabrics are all athletic stuff which doesn't always jive with things like a wool blazer or dress shirt. e.g. I just bought some harem style balloon pants which have a great shape but they are made from a coarse cotton-poly which has none of the "flow" of wool gab or even the nicer cotton-blends from YYPH.

Thanks Parker!

 

[Parker]

Today. This might be better with black boots. but these sneakers are so comfy.

AW 2007 wool blazer with knit panels (grail)
SS 2007 jersey pants with faux shorts over the top
SS 2012 long belt
Uniqlo tee
Adidas Matchplay

Sometimes fit snapshots are just blobs of black, but I'm always surprised at how much texture and color variation there can be in all that black. Heavy cotton jersey, dry and light cupro, sturdy but soft gabardine, etc. all give off different effects at close range.