WW Chan fabrics

[rob]

I will be making my first forray into bespoke with WW Chan, either this fall or winter, depending on schedules. I will be paying for the additional fitting service Chan offers.

I currently have what I consider to be a good base of RTW which has been revamped and replaced over the last year. I now want to focus on adding more seasonal suits and would like to order a light gray fresco for next spring/summer. I live in Milwaukee.

I don't have any familiarity with the fabric books Chan maintains (nor any other fabric books) and I would like to know what would be a good weight, what books to focus on, how much lining to get (or not get) and anything else that will be helpful for a first timer. I think I have a good idea of the style and features I am looking for in the suit but I expect I will have some more specific questions on that as appointment nears.

Thanks.

Rob

 

[Ataturk]

Heavier fabrics tailor better. That's just a fact of life.

Holland & Sherry's "Crispaire" book is a little pricier than the other fresco-type fabrics, but it generally comes in the (IMO, ideal) 9/10 oz weight (the others have most of their selection in lighter weights (8.5ish). If I can wear it in the summer down here you'll be okay in Wisconsin.

Harrisons has the "frontier" book which is 10.5 oz, not exactly fresco, but it's a fairly open weave with a crisp feel.

Go for half-lined for a summer suit, of course.

 

[Axelman 17]

Not everyone on the forum agrees, but for a light gray fresco I like H&S's Crispaire book which I believe is 10/11oz and is carried by Chan.

At Patrick's urging I got my suit made with a full lining. While it hasnt been ideal for the summer in NYC, it should add some versatility for the colder months. If I was living in Wisconsin I would probably get it fully lined.

 

[rob]

Thanks for the responses so far.

Ataturk, from what I've read, I've heard many say to go heavier for better results and I plan on doing that so far.

Regarding the lining, I was thinking of going for a 1/4 lining vs. full, even if that limits use to spring/summer. I currently have five 10 month suits and 1 fall/winter weight. My goal is to add 3 spring/summer weights and 3 fall/winter weights.

Thanks, again.

 

[Axelman 17]

1/4 lining probably makes sense if you are fine with it being a spring/summer suit. With a weave like fresco you will get some good circulation through the jacket.

Otherwise, enjoy the visit. You should not be afraid to be hands on with Chan and give them a lot of guidance around what you are looking for. For Chan in particular, the more input you put in, the better the result.

 

[rob]

Axelman,

That is what I've gathered from SF. I expect I will be starting a few threads to help me push the points that will help in the final product. I will wear a suit to the fitting that has a fit and style that I would like to use as a starting point.

Rob

 

[Timeless Fashion]

Besides the H&S Crispaire, Chan also carries the J&J Minnis fresco. I believe it starts at 8/9 oz and goes up to 14/15 oz.

 

[rob]

Originally Posted by Timeless Fashion

Besides the H&S Crispaire, Chan also carries the J&J Minnis fresco. I believe it starts at 8/9 oz and goes up to 14/15 oz.

What are the pros and cons for H&S vs Minnis? What is the best weight for avoiding excessive wrinkling while maintaining some temp control?

Rob

 

[AndrewRogers]

Originally Posted by rob

What are the pros and cons for H&S vs Minnis? What is the best weight for avoiding excessive wrinkling while maintaining some temp control?

Rob

It won't be just weight of the cloth but how much or how little, rather, lining you request. I would personally go 9/10 oz Fresco and then focus on your lining options rather than a lighter cloth.

I have some better photographs than do J&J Minnis on their site, so check out my Flickr. Unfortunately, Chan don't do CMT, but they will have everything I've got, so it will be a start and mean less screwing about when you first see them. Also, if it helps, 9/10 oz has a softer hand than the heavier stuff, but the lighter stuff is no softer, unless the new batch of cloth has changed things, but I doubt it.

 

[Ataturk]

Originally Posted by rob

What are the pros and cons for H&S vs Minnis?

Selection is a big one. H&S has a much bigger selection at the 9/10 oz weight.

 

[kolecho]

H&S Crispaire is a fantastic 9/10 oz cloth and comes in some nice patterns. I highly recommend the book.

Minnis 8/9 oz cloth is easily the coolest cloth I have made up. If you need a real warm weather suit, get it made up quarter lined.

 

[rob]

Thanks for the input.

Andrew, great photos of the Minnis. This helps.

Rob

 

[GBR]

What is this "additional fitting service" that is chargeable. Is this some peculiarity of the US tour - I don't expect to pay a tailor of Chan's standing extra for fittings!

 

[rob]

My understanding is that the basic fee gets you measured and then a suit is mailed to you. If you pay an extra $200 or so, they will have one additional fitting and the cost basically covers the mailing expenses incurred. Will at ASW explained it on his blog.

Rob

 

[Ataturk]

As far as I know, the extra fittings are free--it's the cost of shipping and customs they ask you to cover. If it's actually $200, I don't know.