White Dress Shirts

[archetypal_yuppie]

$0-35 shirts will last 20 wears
$35-80 shirts will last 40 wears
$80+ shirts will last 60 wears

If you get them on sale, then cut the number of wears they will last by the % of the sale

 

[Luc-Emmanuel]

Depends on the fabric. Lighter cottons in my experience are more expensive and less durable. Some of these shirts (from neapolitan makers) will start to fray at the collar or at the wrist after 4 or 5 years of moderate wear.
Sturdier coton dress shirts from H&K, E&R will last longer.
!luc

 

[patrickBOOTH]

My issue with rtw shirts are the collars there's no rtw brand that has an acceptable collar for me. Honestly people spend too much time worrying and searching for slim dress shirts when slim is the easiest thing to correct. If the perfect fitting shirt had the wrong collar it is as useless as balls on a priest, imo.

 

[EliodA]



My issue with rtw shirts are the collars there's no rtw brand that has an acceptable collar for me. Honestly people spend too much time worrying and searching for slim dress shirts when slim is the easiest thing to correct. If the perfect fitting shirt had the wrong collar it is as useless as balls on a priest, imo.

There's a good number of priests who will (silently) disagree with you on that last statement.

But I agree: collar is most important. The rest is easily fixed and hidden by a jacket anyway.

 

[TimelesStyle]



My issue with rtw shirts are the collars there's no rtw brand that has an acceptable collar for me. Honestly people spend too much time worrying and searching for slim dress shirts when slim is the easiest thing to correct. If the perfect fitting shirt had the wrong collar it is as useless as balls on a priest, imo.

Out of curiosity, what kind of collar is that?

And I'll agree to the extent that issues of slimness are limited to the body; nothing will look worse than a perfectly fitted dress shirt with sail-like sleeves. Okay, so a lot of things will look worse, but you get my point .

 

[TimelesStyle]

Also, not to thread-jack, but any suggestions on sub-$100 white dress shirts that are completely opaque? I'm not a big wearer of undershirts in general (get too hot) but really don't like having to make the choice between people seeing undershirt lines and chest hair/nipples...

 

[Trompe le Monde]



My issue with rtw shirts are the collars there's no rtw brand that has an acceptable collar for me. Honestly people spend too much time worrying and searching for slim dress shirts when slim is the easiest thing to correct. If the perfect fitting shirt had the wrong collar it is as useless as balls on a priest, imo.

youre right, its quite tough to find collars with the right dimensions and lay beneath jackets

for midmarket rtw, Makers Shirt (aka Nakamura or however theyre branded in US) semi-wide is nice

http://www.shirt.co.jp/

 

[TimelesStyle]



youre right, its quite tough to find collars with the right dimensions and lay beneath jackets

for midmarket rtw, Makers Shirt (aka Nakamura or however theyre branded in US) semi-wide is nice

http://www.shirt.co.jp/

When meeting the lapels/laying under the jacket is the issue, my solution has been cutaway collars, as they tend to always accomplish this, as do the widest spread collar shirts.

 

[patrickBOOTH]



Out of curiosity, what kind of collar is that?

And I'll agree to the extent that issues of slimness are limited to the body; nothing will look worse than a perfectly fitted dress shirt with sail-like sleeves. Okay, so a lot of things will look worse, but you get my point .

I like a high collar band with two buttons also spread, but not too cutaway where the points go under the jacket lapels. Sail like sleeve is an easy fix, it shouldn't be your priority when buying a shirt. Shirt alterations is like Sewing 101. Also, I never take off my jacket so that would be even less of a concern. Here's an image of my bespoke shirts for reference:

When meeting the lapels/laying under the jacket is the issue, my solution has been cutaway collars, as they tend to always accomplish this, as do the widest spread collar shirts.

For whatever reason rtw cutaways still fall short. Even Borelli and the Italians their collars don't reach well. I can't explain it, but it must have something to do with the shape of my neck and shoulder width or something, but no rtw shirt has completely satisfied me.

 

[TimelesStyle]



I like a high collar band with two buttons also spread, but not too cutaway where the points go under the jacket lapels. Sail like sleeve is an easy fix, it shouldn't be your priority when buying a shirt. Shirt alterations is like Sewing 101. Also, I never take off my jacket so that would be even less of a concern. Here's an image of my bespoke shirts for reference:

For whatever reason rtw cutaways still fall short. Even Borelli and the Italians their collars don't reach well. I can't explain it, but it must have something to do with the shape of my neck and shoulder width or something, but no rtw shirt has completely satisfied me.

Have you tried RLPL (on the high end) or Tyrwhitt (on the low end)? They both have a wider cutaway than the Borelli shirts I've seen.

 

[patrickBOOTH]



Have you tried RLPL (on the high end) or Tyrwhitt (on the low end)? They both have a wider cutaway than the Borelli shirts I've seen.

Yes, the collar bands aren't high enough, the buttons aren't as nice and they fuse their collars which I don't like. I don't like extreme cutaways either. The goal is proportion, not just ends that fit under the lapel. I think if you need to have an extreme cutaway to get your points under the lapel you're doing it wrong. It has got to be a balance between point length and amount of spread. There are a lot of factors at ply when it comes to getting all of this correct for your neck shape (not size) shoulder width, posture, etc. A lot more than you think. If you are picky, like me, you can't really buy off the rack. Also, I just prefer to get my shirts done by the same guy who does my suits. It is a fun relationship and a custom shirt done by one man is something truly special, imo. I can also get other tidbits that nobody knows about but me because I never take off my jacket such as shirring across the back and sleeve heads and such Also, I have oddly long arms, which makes buying rtw difficult, and furthermore I can specify cuff width, and shape and other things that isn't available rtw. I have come close with rtw, but there will always be one or two other details that they don't have that I like. If you're already spending over $300 for a rtw shirt, might as well spend the same or a bit more and get something that is exactly how you like it. Just my 2 cents.

 

[TimelesStyle]



If you're already spending over $300 for a rtw shirt, might as well spend the same or a bit more and get something that is exactly how you like it. Just my 2 cents.

Which is why I just try and find OTR that work; the absolute most I spend is about $150 for shirts on sale that retailed for about $3-400 with most being below $100 and a good % being below $75.

 

[patrickBOOTH]

But $150shirts don't have what I like. Might as well get a $20 shirt from H&M.

 

[TimelesStyle]



But $150shirts don't have what I like. Might as well get a $20 shirt from H&M.

Oh, wasn't suggesting you switch; I was saying why it doesn't make sense for me to shift from OTR to MTM. Your rationale for going MTM makes 100% sense.

Oh, and BTW, H&M ain't even that cheap anymore; the real dress shirts there now start at $40!!!

 

[patrickBOOTH]

It's been probably over 10 years since I have been to one! By the clientele I see going in and out even the demographic has shifted. I used to go there as a poor college hipster, but now it seems, well, rather ghetto.