What suit would suit me?

[Ben Cooper]

So we're thinking about three things;
- Fit: have the fit of your current suits examined in the tailor's thread on this forum. They will tell you what to look out for
- Image: You want to be smart, but not flashy, in an office where most people don't wear suits. You'll be the best judge of this, but you don't want to come across as a prat. So do think about whether a suit every day is a good idea, or whether you want to build toward that, eg. by wearing a blazer/sports coat or by working on the details (nicer ties, pocket square, shoes ...)
- Quality: For your budget, I'd look indeed towards M&S, Tyrwhitt, etc. I have no experience with M&S, Tyrwhitt is decent for the price. However, if you can stretch the budget just a little, enterprises like Bookster will do you a decent suit/sports coat, which will be a big step ahead. Also, consider your local vintage clothing store
And last, but perhaps most important: get good shoes. They betray more about you than you'd care to think.

Thanks again RogerC appreciate the time taken.

I'll find a better pic of me suited up(the one in the pic I posted is the only suit I have at the moment) and post it up in the tailor's thread.

Good point about the office. I came in with a full windsor today and people were asking me why I did, I told them it's because the shirt I'm wearing has a spread collar so I needed a wider, more symmetrical knot and so far apart from one chap they've given me a slightly quizical look! You also get the classic(lame) 'You got an interview today?' joke.

The chap I mentioned actually is one of the few guys that wears a suit everyday and he has pointed me in the direction of T.M. Lewin as that's where he gets all of his, any opinions one them would be great. Just had a quick look at the Tyrwhitt site, those suits look very nice.

I'm currently wearing brogues but they're relatively cheap (£35), I also have a nice but not expensive knee length black coat that looks smart. My ties and belts I've bought from Moss(think they're Dehavilland?). I've always seen them as quite good but I guess that's my ignorance coming into play.

 

[dorolf07]

Isn't the shoulders too broad?

 

[RogerC]



Good point about the office. I came in with a full windsor today and people were asking me why I did, I told them it's because the shirt I'm wearing has a spread collar so I needed a wider, more symmetrical knot and so far apart from one chap they've given me a slightly quizical look! You also get the classic(lame) 'You got an interview today?' joke.

"Bond mistrusted anyone who tied his tie with a Windsor Knot. It showed too much vanity. It was often the mark of a cad"

The chap I mentioned actually is one of the few guys that wears a suit everyday and he has pointed me in the direction of T.M. Lewin as that's where he gets all of his, any opinions one them would be great. Just had a quick look at the Tyrwhitt site, those suits look very nice.

TM Lewin is a decent suit for the money. Nothing special, not particularly bad either.

I'm currently wearing brogues but they're relatively cheap (£35), I also have a nice but not expensive knee length black coat that looks smart. My ties and belts I've bought from Moss(think they're Dehavilland?). I've always seen them as quite good but I guess that's my ignorance coming into play.

If you have your basic stuff together, start concentrating on improving quality. Good shoes cost at least £200. Ties can be very expensive, but it's worth keeping an eye open on this forum, or eBay for deals. Also, check out Sam Hober's website: they do outstanding ties for a very decent price. Personally, I don't like most high street ties I see. Too shiny and "look-at--me-ish". I'm quite partial to textured ties (grenadine, shantung) or ties in other fabrics (wool, linen for summer), but do go your own way in that. Also: read the basics, Alan Flusser's books will get you a long way.

 

[bluesman528]



The chap I mentioned actually is one of the few guys that wears a suit everyday and he has pointed me in the direction of T.M. Lewin as that's where he gets all of his, any opinions one them would be great. Just had a quick look at the Tyrwhitt site, those suits look very nice.

I would include Suitsupply in your considerations. TM Lewin and CT are primarily shirt suppliers with some suits in their catalogue. Suitsupply offers way more choices regarding cutting styles and fabrics and they have as far as I know several stores in London alongside their online shop. Their RTW suits are half canvassed, their Made-to-Measure program includes full canvas.

Besides, Suitsupply suits are generally slimmer cut, more "italian", Drop 7 is fairly common and some cuts provide Drop 8, just browse their website for details. I think you can benefit from that regarding your physique. It's possible that you are able to fit in a 42R or 42L there and shoulder/waist will look much better without much additional tailoring.

 

[RogerC]

Second that. Quality-wise, Suit Supply is bang on.

 

[Ben Cooper]

"Bond mistrusted anyone who tied his tie with a Windsor Knot. It showed too much vanity. It was often the mark of a cad"

Oh no!

I think the most I've ever spent on a pair of shoes is £50 and probably £20 on a tie so I need to adjust my outlook on those! If things go to plan in the next two years I will have sufficient funds to get everything I want.

On a more general note, how old are most of the guys on here? I feel I'm relatively young to be trying to go into alot of detail about these things.

 

[RogerC]



Oh no!

I think the most I've ever spent on a pair of shoes is £50 and probably £20 on a tie so I need to adjust my outlook on those! If things go to plan in the next two years I will have sufficient funds to get everything I want.

On a more general note, how old are most of the guys on here? I feel I'm relatively young to be trying to go into alot of detail about these things.

Well, as for accessories: Drakes of London have just opened their sale. This may be the one tie brand of which I would happy to wear the vast majority of the designs, and all of them are in very good taste.

 

[bluesman528]



On a more general note, how old are most of the guys on here? I feel I'm relatively young to be trying to go into alot of detail about these things.

Although I think that most members here are older than you there are still many of your age active here. Tailored clothing is to a certain extent about details. Therefore it is important to get a decent outfit together with a well-fitting suit, good shoes, shirt, accessories etc. or you will ruin it as a whole.

But you don't have to go to the best for every item you need. For example regarding ties Drakes of London is a great high quality supplier. But you will get decent ties at TM Lewin for the start (and more) without breaking the bank. Same goes for Loake 1880 Collection (only this line of Loake, not cheaper!) regarding shoes, you do not necessarily need GBP700 Edward Green shoes for your first good pair.

As with many products you pay for the highest 5-10% of possible quality many times more. These are fine things, one can not deny it. But the general benefit of having reliable clothing items with good quality is available much cheaper than that if you know what you're doing. And the forum knowledge can help you with that. But the times of paying GBP50 for a pair of shoes will be gone then for you forever, I'm afraid.

 

[sullivan025]

Majority of the members seem older and far knowledgeable in sartorial fashion anyway, do invest if you must in a few quality tailored suits. As for the suit the guy is wearing, it does look a size bigger.

 

[cioni2k]



Oh no!

I think the most I've ever spent on a pair of shoes is £50 and probably £20 on a tie so I need to adjust my outlook on those! If things go to plan in the next two years I will have sufficient funds to get everything I want.

On a more general note, how old are most of the guys on here? I feel I'm relatively young to be trying to go into alot of detail about these things.

If it helps any, I'm 24. You're not too young at all to take an interest in nice suits/shoes/watches/anything

 

[Ben Cooper]

Just checked the Loake 1880's out, the Hilton's look very nice to me

 

[ktrp]

Keep in mind that goodyear welted shoes are resoleable, so assuming you care for them properly, they'll live longer then the 50 pound shoes. Does it fully offset the price? Maybe not, but over time, the price difference between low end goodyear welted shoes and cheap shoes is probably small.

As for ties, I'm fussier with when I'll spend on them now compared to what I see in stores. If I were wearing ties more, I'd have already picked up a sam hober grenadine and something from panta, but I haven't ... yet. The last tie I bought was a $15 knit one from thetiebar.com.

 

[bluesman528]

Nice shoes. Just make sure it fits. The Loake shoes on the elongated Mayfair last are not for everybody's feet.